Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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GrAndAG

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Tha_Reaper
On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither.
My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink.
so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to design my own.

Hmm... Measured mine. It's 19.5mm in diameter (heatsink). You are right, it seems it's unique in each case.
BTW, this fan shroud will fit any hot-end, because it's fully customizable - [www.thingiverse.com]

Out of curiosity checked mine. 19.5mm. OpenSCAD fan shroud is exactly what the world was waiting for! Now I need to think of making use of the sintron's hotend… Maybe build another printer…

My e3d clones came without fan or adapter at all. I just mounted a 40x10 fan below the effector and used blue tape to create a shroud.
Be inventive
-Olaf

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GrAndAG

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Tha_Reaper
On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither.
My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink.
so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to design my own.

Hmm... Measured mine. It's 19.5mm in diameter (heatsink). You are right, it seems it's unique in each case.
BTW, this fan shroud will fit any hot-end, because it's fully customizable - [www.thingiverse.com]

that looks awesome. Going to tinker a bit with it this afternoon. lets hope it works.

Heyho,

lessons learned so far:

Robotdigg aluminium corners:
fits perfect. They are very well build and got no problems assembling them. Very exact. Very very stable.
Only drawback i have: lost a little build height because the bottom corners are taller. Diameter of the Frame is little smaller.

Robotdigg Delrin mini v wheels:
i don't recommend to buy those. The bearings are not very good and mixed (some MR105ZZ some MR105RS) no mini-shims between the bearings (binding) so i think it's better to buy a complete mini v wheel from official open-v-rail sources where spacers, shims, screws and hopefully better bearings are included.
I printed those carriage trucks from
[www.thingiverse.com]
where i changed the scad-file to fit the M5 screws and these spacers
[www.thingiverse.com]
for now.

Robotdigg aluminium effector:
now i have to print a new probe [www.thingiverse.com]. Well maybe not because the probe never worked very good for me. Easy to assemble and the setscrew to mount the hotend is very nice.

Robotdigg aluminium carriage for open ended belts: just nice.

Effect so far: Frame is now superstable.
No play on the carriage trucks. But the carriage trucks don't move so freely like the original.
Print quality decreased a lot Don't know why. Maybe because the carriage trucks move harder and maybe i thinkered to much with slicer-settings

What i now see that my Traxxas+ aluminium rods have a lot of play. I think i overbend one or two rods on reassembling. Good i have spare parts

Hmmm, if i think about it: soon i have a second printer

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GrAndAG

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Tha_Reaper
On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither.
My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink.
so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to design my own.

Hmm... Measured mine. It's 19.5mm in diameter (heatsink). You are right, it seems it's unique in each case.
BTW, this fan shroud will fit any hot-end, because it's fully customizable - [www.thingiverse.com]

I measured mine and its 19.5mm as well. I used this on thingiverse. But its only because I bought the IR sensor.
[www.thingiverse.com]

And Yes I had to dremel the top part to make it fit. But the part that fits over the heatsink fits fine. Back then my printer messed up the intricate detail of the top part of the fan shroud. The part that connects to the effector. So I dremeled it smooth to fit better.

Hello GrAndAG,

Thanks for finding this design on thingiverse. It worked out great for me. I used the customizer, and made a fan-shroud that fits perfectly on my Sintron hot-end. I set the barrel diameter to 19.5mm, after measuring mine with a calipers.

The customized design can be downloaded at:

[www.thingiverse.com]

This design cools the hot-end heat-sink barrel much more effectively, hence the nozzle heats up faster (also retains the heat, without much fluctuation), and the prints seem to come out much better.

However, there was one problem, the customized STL that the Thingiverse customizer spit out, did not have any fan-mount holes. So, in the interest of time, I just drilled the 4 holes in with my dremel.

For now, I have left my old fan & mount still in place, until I'm able to test out this new fan-mount, for an extended period of time.

Thanks to everyone for their valuable input. It is very much appreciated.

Regards.

Thanks for that gkr.

I printed out your shroud, it clips onto the sintron heatsink nicely (ABS, 0.3mm).

However it appears to be designed for a much smaller fan than the one that was in my Sintron kit. Did you change the fan on yours?

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gkr
...
The customized design can be downloaded at:

[www.thingiverse.com]

However, there was one problem, the customized STL that the Thingiverse customizer spit out, did not have any fan-mount holes. So, in the interest of time, I just drilled the 4 holes in with my dremel.

The holes are absent because you forgot to reduce fan-mount holes spacing. In your instance the parameters say:
fansize = 30
fanscrew = 32
So, holes appeared outside of boundary box.
You have to measure length between centers of two adjusted mount holes (I guess it's 24mm) and specify as fanscrew value.

[ADDED]

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nebbian
However it appears to be designed for a much smaller fan than the one that was in my Sintron kit. Did you change the fan on yours?

Yes. His design is for 30mm fan. Sintron's one is 40mm (default for that shroud in customizer, so you have to adjust the e3d_D parameter only (and, maybe, e3d_H).
Also, you can use e3d_shiftY value to move fan upper a bit (as there is space between top of heat-sink and effector).

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 02:45AM by GrAndAG.

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Rossini
Robotdigg aluminium carriage for open ended belts: just nice.
...

Hmmm, if i think about it: soon i have a second printer

How did your GT2 belt fit in the U-clamps of the carriers? My belt ( non branded ) was a bit thick and I had to use a lot of lubrication and force to squeeze it in.

About "second printer": I already mentioned that there would be very little left from the original kit, when you count in all the parts one had to replace because they were wrong or broke or weren't up to the task ( eg Mega/Ramps )
I'm currently Frankensteining a XY-laser plotter from the remaining parts of my Über-upgraded delta.
-Olaf

Hi Nebbian,

Sorry about that. I forgot to mention here that I customized it for a 30mm fan. Since the finned part of the heat-sink, where the fan-mount clips onto is 26mm, a 30mm fan just feels perfect. The e3d lite that I got, ships with a 30mm fan too. The smaller fan, and smaller the mount, I figured things will be lighter as well. Also, since there are no gaps on the top or bottom of the fan-mount, all of the air is completely forced directed towards the heat-sink, which is awesome.

I think I mentioned the above change in my thingiverse note, but forgot to mention here.

If you want to use the 40mm fan, the original design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:988310) will work, but you will need to reduce the heat-sink barrel diameter to 19.5mm, from 22.5mm.

Hope that helps.

Regards.

Hi GrAndAG,

Good catch!! Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, the distance between the center of the mounting holes is 24mm.

I knew I did something wrong, but it got late yesterday, and I was too eager to install the newly made fan-mount and test it out.

I will make the change later today and see if that fixes it.

Regards.

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o_lampe

How did your GT2 belt fit in the U-clamps of the carriers? My belt ( non branded ) was a bit thick and I had to use a lot of lubrication and force to squeeze it in.

My belts (the sintron ones) were a tight squeeze, you had to use some force and hold your tongue just right, but they went in OK once you got it in the right spot. The main issue I've got with the RobotDigg carriages/linear rails is that you can't flip the belt to ride on the flat part over the idler bearing. This means that the teeth ride on the bearing, leaving slight ripples in your parts. I can certainly notice these ripples, and haven't figured out a way to stop them yet.



Thanks guys for the information on the fan size and customizer, I've customized that part to fit the sintron hotend and I'm printing out the part now. I'll publish it once I've test fitted it and made sure everything works.


Open source is amazing

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 07:56AM by nebbian.

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gkr
Hi GrAndAG,

Good catch!! Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, the distance between the center of the mounting holes is 24mm.

I knew I did something wrong, but it got late yesterday, and I was too eager to install the newly made fan-mount and test it out.

I will make the change later today and see if that fixes it.

Regards.

That will fix it, because i've already printed one with those exact same parameters
(print failed 5 layrs before finishing it, , but the fan screws on great, and fits on the heatsink just fine, i printed it with 0,1 layers, and i plan on acetone smoothing it)
my stl is atached.
M3x16 screws fit perfectly

a good silent 30mm fan is so much more elegant than the bulky 40mm stock fan, which blows all over your printbed, unwanted cooling it down.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 08:13AM by Tha_Reaper.

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ohfurryone
Hello, can anyone link me to or upload a copy of Sintrons carriage .stl files? All of mine have cracked and are hanging on by threads

Going back to this topic. My carriages finally arrived. They are ABS moulded. So again, one step down from CNC aluminum but defenitely an upgrade from printed parts.They are well made. I got them on ebay. These are the only molded complete carriages on ebay for the kossel. The others are printed. No one sell complete CNC metal carraiges with rollers so that wasnt an option. (My issue was I thought one of my carriages was cracked from Sintron after months of use. I noticed that 3 of my bearings were worn down. After taking the carriages off. All 3 of the carriages were cracked (original sintron printed). 3 of the bearings were wobbly. So I had a choice of buying printed carriages and using wobbly bearings, buying CNC metal carriages and using wobbly bearings, or buying the complete new printed set with bearings, or buying ABS molded set with rollers.) I put together the molded parts and hooked them up to the Kossel. Very nice fit. Here is the link to the part:

[www.ebay.com]

No play in the carriages. The only one part missing were nuts to connect the rods from the carriages to the effector. But I had plenty of those left over from my other carriages. Otherwise this is a complete drop in replacement for the sintron parts. I am in no way associated with the people above. I just noticed that they put nice care in making the molded parts

So that leaves me with Sintron original printed effector and Sintron original printed corners. I am on my way to a full upgrade.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 09:51AM by DRTak.

Hello Tha_Reaper,

Yes, using the 30mm fan in this case appears to be most elegant with the best results.

I fixed the hole problem (with the fanscrew = 25mm), created a new customized part, printed it, and tested the fit on my spare sintron hot-end, and it fits perfectly. Please note that I also had to change the "length=14", after I updated the fanscrew option.

There's the new thingiverse link (for some reason, I was unable to edit the original one, and the customizer created a new "thinggy"):

[www.thingiverse.com]

Latest pictures attached.

Thanks to everyone for their valuable input. And yes, open-source is truly awesome!!

Not sure what other people think, but other than spending a lot of time getting the delta-geometry and print-bed leveling right, the only thing I have spent time on is getting an nice well-fitted fan-mount, for effective cooling. Haven't had to purchase any extra or replacement parts (besides some additional screws, nuts and bolts), other than what came out from the sintron kossel mini box. The only extra thing that I've had to purchase is the 30mm fan. And, I also upgraded to the Full Graphic LCD.

So I'd have to say, for the money, this kit is pretty good. But, that's my opinion. Mileage for others may vary. Of-course a lot of money can be spent on upgrades and stuff, but I wanted to stay on budget (< $400USD), as much as possible.

Best Regards.

fanscrew 25? thats a bit weird. AFAIK standard 30mm fans have a screw distance of 24mm.
Ive heard that the full graphical display gives performance isues on RAMPS with lots of round corners. I would love to hear your experience on this.

Hi Tha_Reaper:

For (1) the customer did not allow me to go to 24mm. The minimum I could set it to was 25mm for the fanscrew, in the customizer. Also, after my print was finished, I placed a 30mm fan on the finished print, and the holes match up perfectly.

For (2), so far, I haven't seen any problems. Been using it for about 10days. If anything, in the last 10days or so, my print quality has actually been improving .
If I do encounter any problems, I will keep you comment in mind, and provide an update on this thread.

Regards.

That makes sense... I used openscad to adjust the parameters, thats why i didnt have the restriction on the holes.

So, I tried a few prints with the newly installed fan-shroud/mount this afternoon, and I must say, I'm getting very good prints.

[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

Also, I checked the temperature of the heat-sink barrel (on the exposed-side) while the above prints were on-going, using an infrared thermometer, and it comes out to around 25 deg C.

When prior to, and after the print completed and everything returned to room-temperature, the thermometer reads 18.6 deg C.

So, the fan-mount/shroud appears to be be working very well.

Now I'm going to stop messing with the printer and it's perhaps time to try more complex things .

So I fixed my Power supply issue. For those of you who bought the Sintron system. The power supply V+ soldering is weak. After months of use the solder broke down and left me with a poor circuit connection. I figured this out when I took apart the power supply. I resoldered it with more solder. System powers up fine. Prints are amazing. Except one thing. I cannot bridge very well. I had this issue with the RAMPS setup. But it appears worse with the duet setup. If I print something flat, the quality is impressive. The prints with bridges look terrible with globs of plastic on the side. What is the easiest way to fix this?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 08:47PM by DRTak.

OK here's a direct replacement for the Sintron fan mount.

Old: (note the metal guide I put in to stop the fan from blowing down onto the part)



New:



Part is available here:
[www.thingiverse.com]

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DRTak
So I fixed my Power supply issue. For those of you who bought the Sintron system. The power supply V+ soldering is weak. After months of use the solder broke down and left me with a poor circuit connection. I figured this out when I took apart the power supply. I resoldered it with more solder. System powers up fine. Prints are amazing. Except one thing. I cannot bridge very well. I had this issue with the RAMPS setup. But it appears worse with the duet setup. If I print something flat, the quality is impressive. The prints with bridges look terrible with globs of plastic on the side. What is the easiest way to fix this?

Bridging success has nothing to do with electronics or firmware. It is all about slicer settings, print cooling, and filament. Post some photos of your hot end setup and failed bridging prints if you want some advice on what to change.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42

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DRTak
So I fixed my Power supply issue. For those of you who bought the Sintron system. The power supply V+ soldering is weak. After months of use the solder broke down and left me with a poor circuit connection. I figured this out when I took apart the power supply. I resoldered it with more solder. System powers up fine. Prints are amazing. Except one thing. I cannot bridge very well. I had this issue with the RAMPS setup. But it appears worse with the duet setup. If I print something flat, the quality is impressive. The prints with bridges look terrible with globs of plastic on the side. What is the easiest way to fix this?

Bridging success has nothing to do with electronics or firmware. It is all about slicer settings, print cooling, and filament. Post some photos of your hot end setup and failed bridging prints if you want some advice on what to change.

Sintron kit has no object fan, DRTak, have you installed one? Do you print PLA?

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nebbian
OK here's a direct replacement for the Sintron fan mount.
...

It seems you had to increase the length parameter a bit. To not interfere with hot-end mount bracket on top.

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nebbian

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o_lampe

How did your GT2 belt fit in the U-clamps of the carriers? My belt ( non branded ) was a bit thick and I had to use a lot of lubrication and force to squeeze it in.

My belts (the sintron ones) were a tight squeeze, you had to use some force and hold your tongue just right, but they went in OK once you got it in the right spot. The main issue I've got with the RobotDigg carriages/linear rails is that you can't flip the belt to ride on the flat part over the idler bearing. This means that the teeth ride on the bearing, leaving slight ripples in your parts. I can certainly notice these ripples, and haven't figured out a way to stop them yet.



Thanks guys for the information on the fan size and customizer, I've customized that part to fit the sintron hotend and I'm printing out the part now. I'll publish it once I've test fitted it and made sure everything works.


Open source is amazing

My belts were a tight squeeze too. For the belts. Maybe switching the idler bearing with a GT2 tooth idler resolve the ripples? I see those ripples too on my prints. Should be a easy thing to switch the idler bearings on the Robotdigg corners.

Customized also a fan holder. Nice find.

Even though many of you said "don't buy" I still "did buy" the mentioned sintron kit today (for 235 GBP). As long as it prints and it's a Delta (love the way they work and look) I'm happy. Also I love to tinker about stuff and actually having something worth tinkering about makes it all the better, and the fact that's it's upgradeable is just awesome! Can't wait for it to arrive! ). I'll post succes, questions and mistakes here, I'll share it all with you guys (and maybe girls , though I think the stereotype prevents me from expecting many of them here).

Thanks for all the upcoming help and allowing me to become a part of this great reprap community

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Noitome
Even though many of you said "don't buy" I still "did buy" the mentioned sintron kit today (for 235 GBP). As long as it prints and it's a Delta (love the way they work and look) I'm happy. Also I love to tinker about stuff and actually having something worth tinkering about makes it all the better, and the fact that's it's upgradeable is just awesome! Can't wait for it to arrive! ). I'll post succes, questions and mistakes here, I'll share it all with you guys (and maybe girls , though I think the stereotype prevents me from expecting many of them here).

Thanks for all the upcoming help and allowing me to become a part of this great reprap community

Good luck! With a little bit of that, you're likely to get it printing ;-) As for girls, it's not only stereotype, but statistics that prevent you from expecting many of them, I think it's okay, as Einstein would put it "one may and must risk generalization, as long as one remains aware of its uncertainty" :-)

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hacker

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Noitome
Even though many of you said "don't buy" I still "did buy" the mentioned sintron kit today (for 235 GBP). As long as it prints and it's a Delta (love the way they work and look) I'm happy. Also I love to tinker about stuff and actually having something worth tinkering about makes it all the better, and the fact that's it's upgradeable is just awesome! Can't wait for it to arrive! ). I'll post succes, questions and mistakes here, I'll share it all with you guys (and maybe girls , though I think the stereotype prevents me from expecting many of them here).

Thanks for all the upcoming help and allowing me to become a part of this great reprap community

Good luck! With a little bit of that, you're likely to get it printing ;-) As for girls, it's not only stereotype, but statistics that prevent you from expecting many of them, I think it's okay, as Einstein would put it "one may and must risk generalization, as long as one remains aware of its uncertainty" :-)

After getting my system up and ready, Im glad I got the Sintron Kossel. I dont think I would be able to handle a prebuilt one if something went wrong with it. Im also glad the guy who bought the Overlord posted in this forum. I saw it on ebay for cheap and wished I bought it. But turns out it has issues and was NOT a plug and play.

Bridging success has nothing to do with electronics or firmware. It is all about slicer settings, print cooling, and filament. Post some photos of your hot end setup and failed bridging prints if you want some advice on what to change.
Thanks DC42. Ill get working on posting some picks of my prints.

Sintron kit has no object fan, DRTak, have you installed one? Do you print PLA?
Yeah I do not have an object fan. Will that really improve bridging?

For upgrades now, I can give a thumbs up to the duet0.6 + duex + paneldue setup. First my kids love the touch screen since everything in this world is touch screen. That makes the most impact to them about the printer. 2nd, the printer now prints louder its true. But it sounds like a Formula 1 race car shifting gears. Before with the RAMPS setup, it sounded like a car grinding gears while shiftting. Guess what Im saying is it Sounds more precise than with the RAMPS setup. Again, this is a thanks to DC42 and all the others in this forum for all of the tremendous help. I changed my power adapter to have a 3 prong connector and a ground but that didnt help my paneldue issue. It did shift the color hue to a differen location though. I assume it might truely be a gounding issue but that is just asthetics.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2016 09:40AM by DRTak.

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DRTak
Sintron kit has no object fan, DRTak, have you installed one? Do you print PLA?
Yeah I do not have an object fan. Will that really improve bridging?

For upgrades now, I can give a thumbs up to the duet0.6 + duex + paneldue setup. First my kids love the touch screen since everything in this world is touch screen. That makes the most impact to them about the printer. 2nd, the printer now prints louder its true. But it sounds like a Formula 1 race car shifting gears. Before with the RAMPS setup, it sounded like a car grinding gears while shiftting. Guess what Im saying is it Sounds more precise than with the RAMPS setup. Again, this is a thanks to DC42 and all the others in this forum for all of the tremendous help. I changed my power adapter to have a 3 prong connector and a ground but that didnt help my paneldue issue. It did shift the color hue to a differen location though. I assume it might truely be a gounding issue but that is just asthetics.

I would say object fan is critical for bridging, at least with PLA (and also improves things with PETG for me). That's of course just my experience and I'm no expert.

As for the sound, my wife says it sounds like a time machine or something. Unfortunately, my experience with time travel is very limited, so I can neither confirm nor deny it.

Duet is great, though I don't have any screen but browser for it (I consider dedicating some touchscreen device to the browser). Which is no big deal. But recently it started to lose network connection… Sometimes up to the point where it stops replying to pings, sometimes it never comes back with HTTP response, sometimes it doesn't like HTTP requests saying it has too many commands or something (don't remember exactly)… The most puzzling thing is that it has started for no apparent reason (no changes to config, no firmware update — and firmware update didn't fix it either), so I suspect hardware… Or the fact that I started using two browsers more often…

Hello DRTak,

>>Thanks DC42. Ill get working on posting some picks of my prints.

From my understanding and experience, especially for bridging, the plastic needs to cool fast. If not, it might droop and sag. So, having an object fan will definitely help.

That being said, like DC42 has indicated - slicr3r settings, hot-end temperature, filament quality, all have a role to play.

I myself do not have an object fan arrangement (yet) designed to cool just the part as it is being printed. That's probably the next thing I need to look at. But, for now, I have a Pedestal fan, about 6-8 feet away, running in the lowest possible setting, directed at the printer and the electronics. The draft keeps the electronics cool, and appears to help with cooling the printed part as it is getting layered. BTW, I have seen even Johann use such a fan-setup, in several of his videos.

My suggestions:

- not sure what temp you are running your hot-end (and if you are using PLA). Try lowering the temperature by a few degrees, and experiment. I use PLA (toner-plastic filament), and by trial and error, I have figured that a temp of 205 deg, works best on this Kossel. On my other MakerBot Clone (PowerSpec Ultra 3D), I set it to 200 deg C. But, that printer already has a nice built-in object fan, attached to the direct-extruder assembly. Finally, I have not messed with ABS at all.

- verify your slic3r settings.

- get a object fan arrangement going (temporary external, or permanent solution attached somewhere near the hot-end - somehow.

- try a better quality filament, if you are not using a good one already.

Hope that helps.

Regards.