Has any one built the Micromake printer?

Sounds like your DELTA_RADIUS value is wrong. You can either change it directly or play with the values that add up to it (by default): (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET)

Increasing Delta Radius makes the center dip down more than the edges (become concave, looking from the top), or reducing it makes the edges dip more. Sounds like yours is too big and needs to be reduced.

As recommended by many folks on here (thanks to them all) I would direct you to the following delta calculator page: [escher3d.com] Plug in your values. Test the results and feed it back in. Rinse & repeat. You should converge pretty rapidly. Just a warning, make sure you have the sign right when you enter spacings (IIRC, if your nozzle touches, while your Z values are still >0, then enter that as a negative number).

Here are the settings I used for my D1. The commented values came from a copy of Marlin I downloaded, which didn't match my direct measurements…

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD      216   // 217.3 mm
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 157   // 151 mm
#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET    32   // 24 mm
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET    31   // 22 mm
#define DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-(DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET)-(DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET))
#define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS   85   // 90mm

How do these compare with the settings other owners of this machine are using?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2016 02:50AM by Thinkyhead.

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| Lead Developer of Marlin Firmware
| Help support my work at Patreon and Elsewhere.
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Hello All,

My first post on this forum.

After all the web references, learning new stuff and re-learning old stuffs... my delta finally gave me a print I'm fully satisfied...
Initially had skewing issues (due to towers not perpendicular to bed), shifted prints (due various issues like bed screws not firm, slipping belts, etc), curved prints (due to inconsistent calibrations), etc...
The micromake D1 is now running stock firmware with Cura 15.04 (as provided by seller). Endstops triggers are <0.1mm of each other. Bed calibration takes less than 5 count for 50mm radius @ 0.05mm accuracy. Prints are accurate, edges are straight... couldn't be happier. Excuse the lousy ABS-juice spread... it's my first application of it... works surprisingly well...

Hi guys i have calibration problems with my new d1. Auto bedlevel in cura works ok as long as i keep to 50mm radius but as soon as i get to 60-65mm the nozzle goes into the bed in front of the printer behind the lcd and i get an error. I guess I need to adjust something mechanicly but i have no idea what. Any suggestions?

Also thinkyhead do you have a working configuration.h or firmware for the latest marlin firmware you can share? I have tried to copy the values from the old marlinfw micromake shares but my steppers run all over the place. The one they share i get errors in the latest arduino software when i try to compile and upload it.

Thx

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Henrik B
Also thinkyhead do you have a working configuration.h or firmware for the latest marlin firmware you can share?

I have the current (as of today) RCBugFix branch posted at my Github page, configured for the MicroMake D1. You'll probably want to change the custom name. Otherwise it's nearly tuned. I still have a dip in movement so the rod lengths and other magic delta values aren't perfect yet. If you manage to get them better dialed-in, please let me know!

[github.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/19/2016 02:45AM by Thinkyhead.

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| Lead Developer of Marlin Firmware
| Help support my work at Patreon and Elsewhere.
|

Thx man i realy appreciate it. if i fid any better settings i will be sure to let you know

All very good info here. I to have just purchased this delta printer. Got it up and running a few nights ago and have done a few test prints so far.
Question????? The info page from where I purchased this said it was compatible with Mac and Linux as well as PC. Seems to work fine on my roommates PC laptop, but when I move it over to my Mac running OS X Mavericks, not one single piece of software will recognize the machine!! . Not even Cura, which comes with the machine and runs ok on the PC. Any ideas? Another forum suggested the firmware needed updating, but I am not comfortable trying that just yet. On the Mac, Cura, Repetier Host, and Matter Control, all see the printer in the setup section, but refuse to connect to it. Changed the baud speed, rebooted, re-installed, changed cables, running out of options. Help!!

have you installed the driver for the serial controller on the mac?

[drive.google.com]

read this too

[tzapu.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2016 09:44AM by Henrik B.

As it turns out, the Ch340/ 341 drivers were not the issue. Upon taking a closer look at the actual arduino board, It did NOT have that chip as the USB controller, but rather one from FTDI, iirc. ID'ing the driver is all well and good, but now the problem was that in both cases, the drivers are not signed by the developer. Had to find one that was or disable the signing procedure on the computer. Not a smart thing in todays security conscious world.
Anyway, found the driver, got it installed, and now Matter Control works great. Cura, not so much. That piece of software still refuses to acknowledge the USB interface as verified and working on the Arduino board. My guess is the fact that the folks over at Micromake tweaked a lot of stuff in their version of the Cura software to get it to run. Ultimaker themselves have confirmed that Cura was not designed to run a delta printer and they have no plans to make it do so as they do not sell a delta themselves.
Moral of the story, if you're on a PC, you're probably ok with the included software. Just get the signed driver appropriate to your board and you should be good to go. If a Mac, get something designed for the printer, like Matter Control. There's a reason that two other manufacturers of Deltas use it over Cura or Repetier Host. I'm told that Simplify 3D will also work natively, but since its a paid app I didn't try it. Be warned though, no matter which route you take, GET A SIGNED DRIVER THAT MATCHES YOUR BOARD. FWiW, all the docs that came with my printer mentioned the CH driver so thats what I went looking for. Not until I actually looked at the board, and consequently dug deep into the Google drive folder for Mac, that there was a possibility of a different chip/ driver combo being used.
Live and learn. Thanks to everyone that offered help and guidance. I'm up and running with decent prints coming out daily and getting better as I dial this sucker in.

hey you dont need to have the printer connected to the mac for printing just use a sd card and if you want cura to run for calibrating yuo can try running it under window on your mac with a bootcamp installation or a windows emulator

Yeah, thought of running off-line, but then there's the step of telling the software to output the G-code, save it to SD, and then move it over. Only a minute or two I know, but it kinda defeats the purpose of having it sit right next to the computer.
Also thought of running it on an old laptop with XP, but again, all designing and such is on the mac. Save - export - move - yada yada yada. Why cant it just be simple??

what about Toshiba FlashAir W-03 Karte with 8GB in the printer;
simple& cheap - still working here - i only have to start the print's on the printer (but not walking around with the SD)

during long prints its not that good to have the computer running the printer . you cant reboot during a print if the computer crashes you loose the print... so i still think moving the sd card is worth it just wait until your computer crashes 8 hours into a 10 hour print and you will know what i mean

just to explain:
the FlashAir is a SD-Card with add. WiFi function. it sticks in the printer and you can move the files to there via the WiFi.
if Wifi is lost, it works still like a standard SD-Card not necessary to run the PC during the print

I have heard of those. I had one in my camera a few years back.
Opted to run the software on the pc laptop and set it up right next to my current system. Not my ideal solution, but all I have to do is move the thumb drive over now.

Anybody know if it is possible to insert a geode command somewhere into the firmware or the cura settings to disable the heated bed after the first 10 layers or so. Concerned that the heat from the bed may damage the electronics in the long run, being so close to the wires and all. Have a card stock shield in place now, but would still like a software fix if possible.

Look up this Cura Plugin...
[github.com] (it is already built-in, iirc).
At the required layer/height, just set bed temperature to 0

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8perf
Anybody know if it is possible to insert a geode command somewhere into the firmware or the cura settings to disable the heated bed after the first 10 layers or so. Concerned that the heat from the bed may damage the electronics in the long run, being so close to the wires and all. Have a card stock shield in place now, but would still like a software fix if possible.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2016 04:47AM by abasir.

Hmm. Ill have to look again. The version of Cura that came with my Micromake was set up special by them and I didn't notice any plugins that came with the install. Thanks four the lead though.

Well.... it is in my 'Micromake' Cura... else, you can always add it...
See how it looks like in the attached screenshot...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2016 07:42PM by abasir.

Cool.

I'm considering getting this printer and was wondering if the Hiwin linear guide type is worth the nearly 100% price increase over the basic pulley version, considering this is a budget model after all. There is also a "middle of the road" option with Chinese linear guides but from what I've read those are to be avoided?

Also, the basic pulley has a heated bed and power supply as an option, it's not clear whether those is included as standard with the Hiwin linear guide type.

I have the middle-range, Chinese linear rail option, with heat bed and power supply... So far, I have printed over 2kg of PLA+ABS... I'm happy with the results and it doesn't seems to have any significant issue... btw, I dont think the cost increase justify the Hiwin option...

Thanks for that, those prints do look good. I may opt for the non-Hiwin linear guide version then after all. Has anyone used this printer with Simplify3D? I'm also considering swapping out the electronics for a more capable board, Duet or Smoothieboard, so print speeds wouldn't be limited by computing bandwidth of an ATmega 2560 - apart from simply wanting to tinker with a Delta, after two Cartesians, I'm mostly looking to get this for the high Z build space and printing speeds. I'll be ordering this kit next week with the 11.11 shopping insanity from MicroMake on AliExpress.

please take care about the power-wires of the heatbed version:
have a look at this discussion (at the end of the comments):
[www.thingiverse.com]

That's what I did with the power wires of the heated beds on the two Prusa's, the original wiring was an accident waiting to happen. I also had to swap out the power connector on one of the Chinese RAMPS boards for a genuine Molex and replace the heatbed MOSFETs for same reason.

I finally just soldered a thicker wires to the PCB and placed an inline connector (XT60) for easy maintenance purpose. Not expecting any issues with connector smoking again...

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siddharta
That's what I did with the power wires of the heated beds on the two Prusa's, the original wiring was an accident waiting to happen. I also had to swap out the power connector on one of the Chinese RAMPS boards for a genuine Molex and replace the heatbed MOSFETs for same reason.

I just built one and my PC can't locate the drivers for the device so it's not being assigned to a comport under device manager when I plug in the USB. Is it a standard FTDI driver for a UART device? I haven't really looked at the chip. Did anyone else have this issue. I'm on Win10 btw.

thanks!

have a look at the chip - may be it's a CH340/CH341