What is the state of the art printer as of 2015

Hi everyone, it's been a while since I read all of you, and more on the web, what a nice and pleasant forum in here.

Anyway, I was wondering myself what would be the best choice for a delta (or not, but taking into account that I'm posting here, you might think I'm already a Delta aficionados...) in november 2015 ? Indeed, I'm the owner of a variant of a rostock mini (which mean no aluminum extrusion ...) And I really want to go to the next level, in term of precision and features (screen, type of extruder, and any other cool features (like the hot swap given by magnet assembly...)).

Indeed, I've shortlisted some of them, the gorgeous and expensive Atom 2.0 printer (based on magnet), and the Cherry PI III, and IIIS (Is it really a better choice, I find it hard to believe that string could be better than magnets...).

Anyway, if you have in mind better printer tell me...

IMO there isn't much wrong with the Kossel design. You might like to check out my blog entries (see link in my signature) about the Kossel variant I built with 300mm build diameter, metal corners, fast bed heater, touch screen control panel, web interface, and fast auto calibration. One change I am currently making is to use Igus joints instead of Traxxas. The magnetic joints sound like a good option too and I hope to try them later.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
IMO there isn't much wrong with the Kossel design. You might like to check out my blog entries (see link in my signature) about the Kossel variant I built with 300mm build diameter, metal corners, fast bed heater, touch screen control panel, web interface, and fast auto calibration. One change I am currently making is to use Igus joints instead of Traxxas. The magnetic joints sound like a good option too and I hope to try them later.

I was looking at the igus joints for the large printer I'm planning on building and as they are local to me in Northampton lol they seem to have a lot of different joints

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GR4EME

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dc42
IMO there isn't much wrong with the Kossel design. You might like to check out my blog entries (see link in my signature) about the Kossel variant I built with 300mm build diameter, metal corners, fast bed heater, touch screen control panel, web interface, and fast auto calibration. One change I am currently making is to use Igus joints instead of Traxxas. The magnetic joints sound like a good option too and I hope to try them later.

I was looking at the igus joints for the large printer I'm planning on building and as they are local to me in Northampton lol they seem to have a lot of different joints

An excerpt from my forthcoming blog entry:

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Whereas the Traxxas joints take an M3 screw through the ball and an M4 screw in the tail, the Igus joints take the same size of screw in both. In order to be compatible with the existing Robotdigg metal carriages and effector, M3 screws must be used. The tail of the Igus joint could be connected directly to 5mm o.d. x 3mm i.d tube, but I felt that the existing 6mm tube was already a little on the small size for the arm length. So I used 7mm x 5mm tube, with pieces of 5mm x 3mm acting as converters at the end.

I used Igus KBRM-03 joints. The arms are currently in the airing cupboard for the epoxy to set. If you are not constrained to use M3 screws to attach them to the carriages and effector, then you could use larger joints to avoid needing two sizes of CF tube.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2015 09:19AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Excellent i was thinking of going up in size due to the length of arms, I'm thinking they will be around 625mm long although if i use two tubes one inside the other i can increase the wall thickness of the arm and reduce the flex.

I was also looking at the AGRM and WGRM joints instead of a rose joint

When glueing carbon check out scotchweld DP490 its what the F1 boys use for gluing CF-CF or CF to just about anything else, you can keep the tube in the freezer once opened

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GR4EME
Excellent i was thinking of going up in size due to the length of arms, I'm thinking they will be around 625mm long although if i use two tubes one inside the other i can increase the wall thickness of the arm and reduce the flex.

From a mass perspective, it's better to use a tube, because material on the inside doesn't contribute much to stiffness. Also I found that the 5mm x 3mm tube needed to be sanded down before it would fit inside the 7mm x 5mm tube. So I just used a 20mm long conversion piece of 5mm x 3mm tube at each end of each rod.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I agree its got to be tube but a 1mm wall is to thin in my opinion. Did you go with wrapped or drawn tube?

I will go with drawn, i may just sleeve the centre section say 300mm-400mm where the risk of flex is.

I use drawn (pulltruded) tube.

I understand that for a fixed wall thickness, stiffness of a tube varies approximately with the cube of diameter. So increasing the diameter by 25% will have about the same effect as doublnig the wall thickness.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
IMO there isn't much wrong with the Kossel design. You might like to check out my blog entries (see link in my signature) about the Kossel variant I built with 300mm build diameter, metal corners, fast bed heater, touch screen control panel, web interface, and fast auto calibration. One change I am currently making is to use Igus joints instead of Traxxas. The magnetic joints sound like a good option too and I hope to try them later.

bom would be nice, couldn't find on your site...

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Qdeathstar

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dc42
IMO there isn't much wrong with the Kossel design. You might like to check out my blog entries (see link in my signature) about the Kossel variant I built with 300mm build diameter, metal corners, fast bed heater, touch screen control panel, web interface, and fast auto calibration. One change I am currently making is to use Igus joints instead of Traxxas. The magnetic joints sound like a good option too and I hope to try them later.

bom would be nice, couldn't find on your site...

There is a BOM in [miscsolutions.wordpress.com] although it doesn't list every single screw.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].