almost working

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DrDoggy
yes finally getting the butterflies now that i should have 2 months ago when i finished building, I just cant believe the new low in customer care that this company provided, they had good build instructions , but no usage instructions. I really appreciate your guys help for picking up that slack. As a newb I would have been lost!

lol, I was just noticing sloppy raft layer too, i think i will turn mine off as well. I think i will order more rods, also my next question was can i get a 1mm tip, I see by the settings that i can!
btw.. is 40-60mm/s the fastest i should go? ,, even with my 4mm tip?

also what software do we use for designing 3d models? so far i have been using autodesk inventor. which works pretty good, but just wondering about other popular options?

I don't think you have told us yet in this thread which company you purchased the printer from. Also you haven't told us which electronics and firmware you are running, so we can't tell you whether 40-60mm/s is the fastest you can print or not. Some delta printers can manage infill at 120mm/sec.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

folger kossel mini 2020 rev b
audrino with marlin and ramps boards

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2015 09:29AM by DrDoggy.

k,, thanks again guys , this has been priceless amounts of help

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DrDoggy
folger kossel mini 2020 rev b
audrino with marlin and ramps boards

With 8-bit electronics running a delta, the printing speed may be limited by the electronics, and the travel speed certainly will be. I can't say what maximum speed you will be able to achieve because I don't use 8-bit electronics, which is why I was waiting for someone else to answer you. However, some people who run on RAMPS say that Repetier is more efficient than Marlin for running a delta.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

marlin was just what came with it , is there place to download Repetier, is there version specific to my device, i would assume things change across different printer configs, ie, Ramps boards may connect different across different printers,

also , what anomolies occure when i run too fast? so far all i have seen is my thickness die off and extruder start slipping.

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dc42

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DrDoggy
folger kossel mini 2020 rev b
audrino with marlin and ramps boards

With 8-bit electronics running a delta, the printing speed may be limited by the electronics, and the travel speed certainly will be. I can't say what maximum speed you will be able to achieve because I don't use 8-bit electronics, which is why I was waiting for someone else to answer you. However, some people who run on RAMPS say that Repetier is more efficient than Marlin for running a delta.

In the time I've had my Kossel Mini, I've run into many different limitations of my hardware, several limitations in the slicer, and a couple of electrical issues in the RAMPS board. However I haven't run into any limitations due to the control system of Arduino / Marlin.

Speed is limited to physical factors (we're dealing with molten, saggy plastic that behaves differently when laid down fast vs slow) rather than 8 bit limitations.

I've seen artefacts caused by running belt teeth over idler bearings, poor slicing algorithms, or plastic pushing on the line next to it, but never artefacts caused by the 8 bit control system. I've certainly had to slow down the print in certain cases, but this is always due to how the plastic behaves, not due to the control system.


Maybe I'm not trying hard enough, but for me at least, the type of controller inside my printer isn't a limiting factor at the moment. There are loads of other issues that have a bigger effect on your finished product than whether you've moved to the fancy new 32 bit electronics, imho.

yes, i have seen such things too, also i notice the lower resolution I have, I hope that the new tip will resolve that, I have a feeling i will need to rebuild the whole head including end rods, but i fear low resolution will cause negative impact printing a new effector and such.

all in all my prints have been ok, i still get spots where the filiment leaves a gap or misses catching an overhang. i see alot on thingverse , things that screw on to pop bottles and garden hose ends. I have found slurry to make a good primer coat and seals the small cracks as well as smooths, but im not confident that it will stand up to the hose's pressure. is this due to low resolution as well, or one of the earlier problems i had?

also should it be so hard to change spools? i find it hard to feed through the heatsink and heat coupling, usually what i do to compensate is unscrew the plastic feed tube at the heat sink, extend the plastic enough to reach through to hotend, then i can fish it down and rescrew down feed tube, is that normal?

I realse now that i cannot support that way cool tripple print head, but i did check the circuits and it seems i have one ramps board free, does that mean to be for the second extruder stepper motor, but then how do i connect second hotend or second temp sensor, temp sensor would be easy if software supports , but what about 2nd nose heater i dont think it should be hooked parallel with the first one? .....Lots of servo pins though.....

on a more positive note, I have my first sucessful print job, a Johnny5 eye !

Update: I figured out, i do have hardware to support dual extrusion, but discovered firmware does not support it, was there mention of an upgrade available?

To turn it on I think you just need to find this line in Configuration.h:

#define EXTRUDERS 1

and change it to 2.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2015 09:56PM by nebbian.

lol , ya tried that first, lots of errors came back , i dont think its setup proper in the folger firmware, which was a surprise since again , the hardware is ready to go

I am starting to realise that FOLGER is the company who made this printer
Is MARLIN the design/model type?

I wonder if I could rip code from somewhere/someone else for my device, if it would be compatable., since i notice we all mostly use adruino and ramps board, i think mine is version 1.4.
I double checked and the pins are set up too, but this is the line i get error on:
#define _WRITE_NC(IO, v) do { if (v) {DIO ## IO ## _WPORT |= MASK(DIO ## IO ## _PIN); } else {DIO ## IO ## _WPORT &= ~MASK(DIO ## IO ## _PIN); }; } while (0)

also does anyone use other compiler besides basic Adruino? like something with debugging, I'm trying to compile using atmel studio but have problems there too...

Hey,

just to say, i have finished my first printer delta a couple of months ago. I started with an electronics (RAMPS) and premodified version of firmware from the vendor(marlin), But then i decided to go for 32bit electronics because of movement speed and better accuracy microsteppers (less noisy), To go from "preloaded" customized firmware to something else is pretty easy. I switched to repetier as their firmware is awesome for delta's (i think the coder behind it also focuses on deltas).

[www.repetier.com]

there you can have a peak and download the firmware. I'm a big fan of purity / opensouce so i decided to go away from a modified version to something "standard" If you need help translating from Marlin Configuration.h to repetier feel free to ask.

Btw. before you start tinkering with a new nozzle (3 colors) I'd recommend you to get familar with 3D Modeling and get used to the slicers.

Happy XMas

Thanks Neutrino, I did start investigation for multicolour software, but I realize now that i dont have hardware to use the 3 colour one, however i am reviewing use of your software still, will let you know, I have decided that if i can get dual nozzels going i will rebuild the entire head, otherwise i'm not going to bother fixing these other small problems. such as the fact that i was should have gotten 0.4tip but received 0.6mm tip

Also thanks for the screen shots, was worth 1000 words, I get now why we turn the layer height down and I am seeing noticeably better prints,

Also I now question if my rods are in fact out of line, especially since i was articulate with the gluing instructions, and the g29, after getting the offset almost level in the bed, i could still see where at the bottom was a nice flat line but in the other side was squishing to the bed, a simple adjustment of the z endstop and now prints are starting off more level... but g29 now says im way further offset then before, although the prints are coming out better, i wonder if there is maybe flaw in my induction probe causing bad reports.

But I am having one last(I hope) problem, it seems that at about 10-12mm height i am getting a glitch, where at first i though my spool isn't unrolling and getting caught stopping the extrusion, now i am not so sure and question if its somthing else, it almost seems like when it hits these few layers it stops extruding , not sure if its in the gcode or what. I dont think reel is jamming since it happened to several different prints near the same layer. As you can see one print was saved and able to be completed, but the
maybe a slicer setting>? maybe i should re-check spool feed? any ideas what else this could be?

*sry it was filiment snag!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2016 03:44PM by DrDoggy.

HAHA did I mention I was NEWB!

I found that to get dual extrusion i need to change my motherboard variable from 33 to 34!,i've seen this option often but thought it was selecting processor type! whatta newb!
but that is good, i am able to configure for second extruder, the bad news is i had a huge pla clog recently and now need new feed tube connector for filiment, more good news is that i was able to get larger builds done and seems that any of my small calibration anomalies do not impact part alignment on higher layers.
although i am sad that my machine cannot support the 3 head diamond nozzle, oh well...

Just a few Questions!:
0)

1) but i still get little blobs that hang on wall outside of perimeter, likewise i get 1 or 2 spots where it did not fill proper and is porous to water, which slice setting would help this, maybe my spool is getting randomly snagged again?

2)will need to replace entire effector section, is it safe/simple to reprint this part, ok to use pla?

3) Have been looking at color slicers as suggested but could only find solidworks, is there anything i can use that is more free?

4) Having problems choosing what to get for upgrade, so far my list is: stepper motor, wire harness, bowden tube, tube connectors, extruder mechanism, hot end, temp sensor, tip....anything else i am missing?

5) what is the best option, are there pros/cons, any recommendations for a good/better purchase? :
a) [www.aliexpress.com]

I would prefer something like this where i can blend and get a better greyscale, are there problems with these?

b)http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1hc9TIpXXXXbKXXXXq6xXFXXXl/Dual-Extruder-Double-Heads-E3D-Chimera-Hot-End-Reprap-3D-Printer-Prusa-I3-Two-color-Printing.jpg

cant blend as well with this one, also is heat sink large enough?

c) [www.aliexpress.com]

should i be safe and just get this one, isnt all that metal alot of weight?

YAY guys, YAY!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2016 10:14AM by DrDoggy.