FLSUN from AliExpres

I had the same experience before with cura but for some reason some printouts came better with slic3r and I start using only slic3r but the thing is you need to fine tune the settings, took me a year to be completely satisfied with my prusa i3

@Theman

I've been trying since you first PM'd me about writing the firmware from the Pi, I also have been unsuccessful. I will keep trying and let you know if I make any headway.

yeah i dunno. i can just plug the mac in. I've been printing great since cura. but I'm getting not the best quality prints. doing cylinders its all rippled. I'm trying to print lower res now. so 0,3mm z rather than 0.2mm z layers.

Seems no ones here.i tryied printing abs today. The nozzle can't maintain over 218deg when extruding anyone else hav this problem? Also the bed struggles to get to 90deg and once printing it can't get higher than 78deg. I know it's cheap and I'm fine with just using pla with it... but anyone wanna weigh in?

Check the wire gauges from the bed, I had that problem with my Prusa i3 so when I got my delta I replaced the wires with thicker wires (18 gauge), for the extruder check the thermostat could be a bad contact and is giving you a bad reading.

Do you have a laptop style power adapter or the brick size power supply?

Didn't think of that. I got the brick power supply. The bed has pretty thick wires off it. I think it's more just heat loss being a big plate. Dunno if insulating the underside would help. I had to fiddle with the extruded heat block and sensor at first when I got the machine. I think it's ok. But will recheck.

But yeah the prints curl up horribly. I'm using masking tape and it just lifts off. Maybe I'll stick to pla

Version 10 of the Marlin-AC firmware (only some minor bugs repaired; keeping it up to date with the latest Arduino software)

PS: you can keep the eeprom settings (no M502 M500 required) and configuration.h from the previous version

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2016 07:35AM by LVD.

What is the difference in the Marlin-AC and Marlin-lvd ino files?

My wrong: Marlin-lvd shouldn't be there (it's a work in progress version)

I noted a while ago you posted a version of Repetier firmware configured for the FLSun. Did you have a more recent revision? Thank you.

nope

Hi LVD,

First of all thank you for your amazing work!

I have been through a lot of differents forums/vids/blogs about our Flsun and today i discovered than to disable the LCD screen make much better print due to the large amount of memory required for it. So I tried to disactivate it in a standard way in configuration.h //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER but i got a lot of different error when i try to verify it.

What do you think about it? And could you help me to disactivate it in your firmware just to try?

Thank you in advance for your help!

This should get rid of the errors - and uncomment #define SDSUPPORT in configuration.h

Hey guys

Just went through this. I don't think I saw anything about it, but I'm trying to find the max amperage and voltage running through the fans on an FLSun printer. My MKS style board got damaged and after some research I bought a Smoothieboard to replace it with. I'm currently in the process of swapping everything over but I need to install a diode for each fan. Does anyone know what the fans are rated at?

Thanks

12V and something like 0.1-0.2A

i stopped working/using my FLsun, because i have a lot of trouble with the printer.
after installing LVD's "august release" and fiddling around with some settings, the printer will run "strange":
- autoleveling hit's the bed (setting for max height is OK)
- prints start 40mm above the bed
- manual control of the axis gives "strange moves" in different direction's
- and some little things more

so i decided: Delta-printers are NOT my business and i will go on with my still working (4 different types) XYZ-cores

the FLsun will be take apart for spare parts

or anybody can give me a tipp, how to "reset" --- (installed the original FLsun-Marlin a lot of times, but nothing helps --- hardware is checked many times and is OK)

Delta printers are a lot easier to get working well if you use modern 32-both electronics and firmware instead of Arduino/RAMPS/Marlin. You still need an accurate build to get accurately-sized parts. I don't know about the FLSUN in particular, but some of the cheap Chinese kits don't have accurately matched rod lengths or bearing spacings.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2017 10:40AM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote

I don't know about the FLSUN in particular

and

Quote

I have a financial interest in sales of the Panel Due, Mini IR height sensor, and Duet WiFi.

so , stop spamming this thread

Hi Mike

Quote
Mike60

Quote

I have a financial interest in sales of the Panel Due, Mini IR height sensor, and Duet WiFi.

so , stop spamming this thread

Please don't be so rude. dc42 has done an fantastic job with the Duet firmware. I have an Ormerod 2
and i really like the features dc42 has implement for it. He has been always helpful in questions.

I can understand if people get rude if someone is poisoning the community by trying to make a quick buck,
but i don't see anything happening here, quite the contrary. dc42 has given so much to the community that
i hope that he gets a fair share for his efforts.

I think you don't get the technical side of his argument that you get better precision in your calculations using
a newer processor with 32 bit registers which is pretty important for delta printers.

Best regards
Tim

Quote
tstone
I think you don't get the technical side of his argument that you get better precision in your calculations using
a newer processor with 32 bit registers which is pretty important for delta printers.

Thanks, Tim! Although that isn't actually what I was trying to say. Let me try to explain myself more clearly. The person whose post I was responding to said he is giving up on his delta because of firmware problems. What I was trying to convey was:

1. Firmware configuration of Marlin is tedious, because you have to recompile and re-upload it to make most changes. With most 32-bit controllers and firmware, there is a single binary that you flash to the controller. Then you can make most or all configuration changes just by editing the configuration file on the SD card. With RepRapFirmware you can even try out changes on the fly without editing the config file. As well as that, you get fast auto delta calibration built in to the firmware. All this (and other standard features such as software controlled motor currents) make firmware configuration and calibration much easier than with RAMPS/Marlin.

However:

2. Better electronics can't correct for basic geometrical problems, such as rod lengths being mismatched. So don't spend money upgrading to better electronics unless you are sure that the machine geometry is good, or you are prepared to fix it if it isn't.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
LVD
12V and something like 0.1-0.2A

Thanks guy. I'll post more about what I needed to do to swap everything over. when I get done.

Hi

I think you are the author of some blog posts on upgrading a mini Kossell - very informative thank you.

I purchased the FLSun for 250USD delivered to France. And after lots of learning ( and a little frustration) I have it working to what I think is the best of its capability.

When it is printing long infills on a heated bed with the LCD operating, sometimes it will stop with a MINTEMP error. I suspect there is a problem either with the power supply being too weak or the motherboard (Arduino based) not having sufficient capability.

Can I easily change the Arduino based motherboard to the Duet Wifi to avoid this problem?

Regards

Gordon

Mine after a million calibrations and taking the printer completely apart and start over again is not working that well to the point I prefer to use my prusas. The towers aren't 100% perpendicular and doesn't matter my calibrations but anything over 3 inches wide would be a mess. I will try again when I have more time.

who can share specific guide for setting new frimware MARLIN AC dan kalibrasi auto leveling.
i was uploading new frimware and comand G33 P1 C0.3, G33P.but if i print the nozzle hit heatbed and temperature extruder not come down in the lcd.
please anyone can help.

Quote
Gordon W
Hi

I think you are the author of some blog posts on upgrading a mini Kossell - very informative thank you.

I purchased the FLSun for 250USD delivered to France. And after lots of learning ( and a little frustration) I have it working to what I think is the best of its capability.

When it is printing long infills on a heated bed with the LCD operating, sometimes it will stop with a MINTEMP error. I suspect there is a problem either with the power supply being too weak or the motherboard (Arduino based) not having sufficient capability.

Can I easily change the Arduino based motherboard to the Duet Wifi to avoid this problem?

Regards

Gordon

Yes, you can upgrade the electronics just as I described in my blog. However, your MINTEMP error is probably caused by a bad connection to the thermistor, or just possibly an intermittent short between the thermistor and the hot end metalwork, so I suggest you investigate those possibilities first.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I just wanted to thank you LVD for your work. Whilst it's not the latest build of Marlin it works, and it works freakin' well.
I followed all of the steps in the PDF you supplied all the way to advanced calibration (which I'm doing now)

However I used a slightly different approach to machine height to store it permanently in the firmware.

default height: 300
zero all axis'
M114 - validate 300 for Z-height
slowly lower z until 0.1mm (with a feeler gauge)
M114 - get current Z-height


calculation: 300-current z-height = new machine height.


The only issue I have right now is lines on all sides of the print.
[www.simplify3d.com]

The printer sounds quite mechanical and it's noticeably louder than my prusa. My guess is that it's motor tuning and belts too tight.
But this is minor and having come from CNC and Prusa printers the delta killed my brain. I don't think I could've got it working without your work.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2017 07:29AM by tablefx.

Quote

The printer sounds quite mechanical and it's noticeably louder than my prusa. My guess is that it's motor tuning and belts too tight.
But this is minor and having come from CNC and Prusa printers the delta killed my brain. I don't think I could've got it working without your work.

My flsun was also noisy, so I printed these stands and put the printer on them. Couldn't believe how much quieter it became. For a moment I actually thought I had developed a hearing problem! It wobbles a bit during printing, but that doesn't seem to cause any issues.

Grateful for all advice and suggestions - I am quite new to this metier - but I have a reasonable background in machine automation. When the MINTEMP error first occurred I checked the connections and seating. It re-occurred so I replaced the thermistor and cable. It recurred - but only on long infills - say a raft for a 180 mm circle. I saw that as the head approached the brim the display would dim; sometimes it would not extrude properly; and sometimes it would MINTEMP. It only occurs when the bed is heated as well. I have concluded (admittedly from a limited knowledge base) that the power available was less than required. So it is fixed to the extent that it can be avoided if the bed is not heated or I don't try large infills. I've found this printer works well for about 30% of the theororetical build area (i.e. up to about 100mm diameter). I'm thinking of either power the heated bed separately (having the arduino outputs switch a relay instead of powering the heated bed. Or buying a more robust controller.

Regards

Gordon

My PSU is only around 200W, barely enough but it seems to work OK. Perhaps yours isn't supplying as much as it should. It may help to insulate your bed. I placed some cork underneath. Keeps the electronics cooler too.