FLSUN from AliExpres

1) You can use the MKS mini with a heatbed and one power supply by adding a mos-board. Here's the power supply I use, silent (without fan) and compact, it has the perfect height to be attached to one of the sides of the lower frames. You provide 2 power leads from the power supply : one connects to mos-board and powers the bed and the other power lead has a 2.5mm jack to power the MKS mini.

2) Upgrade to the latest version of the firmware and run something like G33 P1 A or G33 P6 A for fast calibration and finish with G33 P10 A or G33 P15 A. If you want to correct for tower angles just forget about that M206 D XYZ and use the 'towers' version = copy the 3 files from the 'towers' subdir to the 'marlin-AC' dir.

3) You have to set the DELTA_HEIGHT a slightly lower number than the real height of the printer (nozzle floating 1 or a couple mm above the bed when put to Z=0.00), adjusting it to the precision of the probe is done by G33. You can go two ways to adjust for print height. Measure the difference between a 'paper test' and the point where the probe triggers (you can check this with M119), and set this as Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER (negative number : -0.2 in my case, but make this -0.4 -0.5 if your first layers print to low). Or you can set a z-print-offset with M212 Z (positive number if prints are to low) run some print tests and store this in EEPROM with M500.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2016 04:03AM by LVD.

Hi LVD,

I am going to use a PC ATX PSU to replace the 12v 6A one that came with my MKS-Mini 1.2. The board doesn't seem to have a PS_ON_PIN defined or physically on the board, but I just need any data pin I think, to connect the PSU green wire low (below 2v).
Do you know if data pins like the ones in aux1 and perhaps those in the -x and -y endstops can be easily redefined?

the ATX PSU is 13A on the 12V rail. Is that enough do you think for the heated bed via mosfet board, a metre of LED light strips, oh, and the printer itself?

The bed I have draws already draws 10A on its own, 6A for hot-end, stepper motors and motherboard is tight, so the minimum for printer and heated bed with no extras is 16A or 200W.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2016 06:18AM by LVD.

you say, 16A OR 200W, the PSU is rated 250W, but I guess I'll have to find a PSU to go with the heated bed

250W PSU but only 150W (13A) at 12V; the remaining 100W are at the 5V and 3.3V lines I guess.

Actually, I have 2 of these and the other is 300W and has 2 x12 volt rails both 18A so that looks to be a better selection
Thanks

Heck yeah, I have recently got me one of these printers and have had struggle getting it printing as good as I see some others. After I read through the pages I may have some questions.

I currently have a question. After calibrating it. I noticed that the -X axis from min to the +X max it slants upwards. But when I check my X,Y,Z height, they seem fine. What could be causing this? Could it be mechanical?

The springs have arrived and after installing them on the rods it really makes a difference. 1.5€ well invested

I'm printing some clips now to hold them in place.

Quote
LVD
The springs have arrived and after installing them on the rods it really makes a difference. 1.5€ well invested

I'm printing some clips now to hold them in place.

I'm just using simple rubber elastic bands with a paper clip holding them together. I know this is an el'cheapo way to do it, but my results are great without spending a dime.

Quote
junkyjunky
I'm just using simple rubber elastic bands with a paper clip holding them together. I know this is an el'cheapo way to do it, but my results are great without spending a dime.

Elastic bands degrade with temperature and UV light, so you may need to replace them frequently. When I was using Traxxas joints, I used tension springs held in place with zip ties.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Some more STL's that may be useful to upgrade the printer:

Control panel for:

power switch, power socket and USB socket

Support panel for MKS mini, MOS-board and room for some other stuff (need to drill the holes)

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2016 08:44PM by LVD.

Any chance of a picture of your machine? I'm not sure but it might be different from mine. The carriage offset and effector offset values in your AC is different then mine.

It all depends how you measure

#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 150

I measure it from centre to frame (not to the wheels)

the only important thing to get right is

#define DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET)

Which is the delta smooth rod offset minus the effector and carriage offset, for the FLsun this is 105mm

Is the measurement of the Effecvtor Offset from the Bolt on the rod to the center of the nozzle?

effector offset and carriage offset need to measured in the same plane as you measured delta smooth rod offset; what you want is the horizontal distance of your rods = delta radius

Not a clue what that means. Need a video or something....

Here's the latest firmware (small calibration guide included)

@cotang have a look at new the configuration.h - problem solved. I measure the delta radius by putting the printer against a wall and measure the distance of both ends (effector and carriage side) of the rods horizontally to the wall and subtract both numbers.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2016 07:17AM by LVD.

Thanks for the extra time putting in.

The problem is that I've changed the Kossel by getting a different effector and will be changing the carriage to a slide soon. So the number for you might not work for me. I've figured out how to measure the two (Rod length and Carriage offset) just trying to figure out the effector. Using the same rod for measuring the length and carriage offset, I'm assuming I need to use that to measure where it connects to the effector to the mid point of the nozzle (which is the radius from where it connects to the effector to the middle of the effector)?

Now I re-read your last post regarding to the "same plane" maybe I'm over thinking this. Same plane as in looking at a side view of the printer to measure where the rod connects to the effector to the mid point of the nozzle in a 2D view?

I think that were my confusion is, how I'm looking at the printer when measuring. If its the radius measurement then my measurement is like 30mm for the effect offset, but if its the 2D view then my measurement is like ~15mm.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2016 10:55AM by cotang.

The only things you need to measure is diagonal rod length and delta radius ("horizontal radius when centered" in the picture)

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

BTW what the consequence if the values are off? Also I noticed a Z-Offset in the config file. What's that for? is that for the nozzle to the auto-bed level switch trigger?

a calibration guide is included with the firmware

Ahh great. I followed your guide. The setup was pretty easy. One last issue. I think I have a setting wrong somewhere. After the auto cal is completed i saved the settings. I then brought the Z to 0 and I noticed that its way above the bed.

My measured Z Height is 277.7 mm which is entered into the firmware.
My Custom Probe Z height is 2.8 mm

After I loaded it and performed the M502 and M500 I proceeded to do a G33. The values I got from that is:

auto calibration starting
center: 5.73 x:5.92 y:5.58 z:5.91
> yz:5.56 zx:5.95 xy:5.54
standard deviation to the zero plane: 5.74
delta geometry: z-Height:271.56 delta Radius:110.51
end-stops: x:-0.00 y:-0.31 z:0.00

iteration 1
center: -0.30 x:-0.19 y:-0.33 z:-0.17
> yz:-0.43 zx:-0.20 xy:-0.44
standard deviation to the zero plane: 0.31
delta geometry: z-Height:271.81 delta Radius:110.52
end-stops: x:-0.01 y:-0.48 z:0.00

iteration 2
center: 0.02 x:0.08 y:0.06 z:0.08
> yz:-0.07 zx:0.04 xy:-0.08
standard deviation to the zero plane: 0.06
delta geometry: z-Height:271.78 delta Radius:110.52
end-stops: x:-0.02 y:-0.54 z:0.00

iteration 3
center: -0.01 x:0.05 y:0.05 z:0.05
> yz:-0.10 zx:0.00 xy:-0.10
standard deviation to the zero plane: 0.06
delta geometry: z-Height:271.78 delta Radius:110.54
end-stops: x:-0.02 y:-0.58 z:0.00

iteration 4
center: 0.00 x:0.05 y:0.08 z:0.04
> yz:-0.07 zx:0.00 xy:-0.08
standard deviation to the zero plane: 0.06
delta geometry: z-Height:271.78 delta Radius:110.54
end-stops: x:-0.02 y:-0.58 z:0.00

checking
center: 0.00 x:0.05 y:0.08 z:0.04
> yz:-0.07 zx:0.00 xy:-0.08
standard deviation to the zero plane: 0.06
delta geometry: z-Height:271.78 delta Radius:110.54
end-stops: x:-0.02 y:-0.58 z:0.00
calibration OK - to save these settings use M500

I then saved the settings and checked manually by moving my Z to 0 and it shows that I'm off from the bed by 5.7 mm.
Do I have a setting set wrong?

If you have replaced the original probe trough the nozzle by another probe you need to set the probe XYZ offsets and parameters in configuration.h

I'll double check them again....thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/17/2016 12:50PM by cotang.

Just a brief shout-out. I'm working to complete my first (FLSUN) 3d printer. Based on group's efforts, I decided to start with LVD's code. Extras include raspberry pi 2b to compile and manage code using command line interface (Ino), Octoprint for Wifi front-end, MK3 insulated heatbed (work-in-progress) and stepper motor vibration dampers. Next steps are calibration and test print using PLA. I look forward to sharing experiences.

I just wanted to start off saying that I have used 3d printers in the past, but they have been pre-built and this is my first complete build. So I have a few questions:

1. After loading the firmware (Stock Flsun or LVD’s version) and manually calibrating the bed is there anything other than the Delta smooth rod offset and z-home position that needs to be set in configuration.h?

2. Once the firmware is set is there anything that needs to be set in the host software (repetier or cura?)

The only reason I am asking is I have watched many YouTube videos along with the user manual, that shows which settings need to be set in both programs but my printer will not start a print successfully. When I send the print command in Repetier (using sli3er) it will heat the bed then when trying to go to the x0 y0 z20 the carriages will start moving down, but halfway through they will start moving off to one side very erratically. Any help with this would be much appreciated

Have you tried LVD's version of Marlin earlier in this thread? There's a good instruction PDF. Not sure about the erratic behaviour you're having.

Once the firmware is set up, you should spend time calibrating the filament. Most recommend careful measurement of the diameter, but here's an alternative method that I found effective:
[www.youtube.com]

If possible, can anyone with an FLSUN Kossel bought in the last few months upload the STL files please? I've lost mine (corrupt SD card). I need the more recent version with the 2-part carriages.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2016 01:56PM by spinor.

Mine got shipped yesterday with ups. I'll post the files when I get it.