can't find kossel 2020 firmware

I just built my first printer, the kossel 2020. I loaded the software and the printer homed correctly. However, I got an error: avrdude timeout. So I'm trying to reload the firmware from: [drive.google.com]. The kosselrevb.zip won't open. It shows the names of the files, but nothing happens when I click on them.

Update: I got the firmware from my brother in Tucson, but when I tried a Home command the extruder drove downward and did a Woody Woodpecker on the print bed. Lucky I had a pad on the bed. Then, I changed the sign on the Home limit switch in the firmware, but I got a lot of compile errors and the LCD screen went dead. Maybe the USB or the RAMPS overheated. I waited 20 minutes without power, but no improvement. Please help!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/05/2016 03:33PM by rmuka.

still having issues?

---

Nophead Mendel90 Remixed in aluminum
Marlin v2.0
Matterhacker Control (latest)
Ramps 1.4
Sainsmart LCD
MK2B heatbed
E3dV6 hotend .4mm tip
1.75mm filaments
dedicated 12v33a psu
dedicated 12v5a laptop psu mod

Yes. Now I get compile errors such as: fork/exec /Users/richardmuka/Downloads/3d printer software/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-g++: no such file or directory
Error compiling.

I'm lost!!

I'm using a Mac instead of a Windows. Could that be the problem? Do I have to spring for a PC?

Shouldn't be. The FT KosselRevB firmware compiled first go using Ardunio 1.6.7 for me. Some of the other firmwares take a little extra tweaking to compile on a Mac, so far. That being said, I've got a bunch of other dev tools installed so it may be a question of needing to add some dependencies that you don't have yet, but honestly, with that particular error it looks like your Ardunio software may be malformed.

I'd recommend trashing the Arduino app and downloading a fresh copy from [www.arduino.cc] directly, and then giving it another tree.

I am also having trouble with my folger tech 2020 kossel clone, when i first uploaded the rev b firmware from folger tech the machine tried to kill itself by homing towards the aluminum bed, i turned the switches in the firmware and got it to home but when i try and use the inductive probe to level the bed it goes crazy in this kind of upwards spiral..... anywhere i can get properly programmed firmware for my 2020 rev b?

The RevB firmware will need some tweaking specific to your printer for a few of the settings.

However one big one is, they have the endstop direction stuff wrong in the stuff in their directory. I don't remember which values, but in the last working version of the RevB firmware I used (before switching to newer firmware) had the following endstop config values in configuration.h:

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

In addition you'll probably want to change the bed area to something like:
#define X_MAX_POS 90
#define X_MIN_POS -90
#define Y_MAX_POS 90
#define Y_MIN_POS -90

The values of the following will be specific to your printer, and will need to be adjusted with some trial and error / logic / external sites:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 240 // (If you followed the kit directions exactly it'll be 230 or 240, depending on what revision of instructions you used)

#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 187.63 // very printer specific; 180-190ish, will determine if your printer head crashes into the bed on the edges, is too high, or just right

#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 275.81// again, very printer specific; paper test at X0 Y0 as per the directions in the configuration read me to figure out this value

DC42 has a site that's pretty helpful with these configuration bits at [escher3d.com]
Keep in mind however, that if you want to do endstop tweaks for the -best- quality prints, you'll need to either upgrade to Repetier or a more modern version of Marlin, since the version FolgerTech supplies is a bit older and doesn't have all the necessary commands to do that level of tweaking.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2016 07:04PM by foryst.

i am having trouble figuring out what settings to put in the repetier firmware tool on the website. i cut the rods to as near to 240mm as i could (+/- .05mm), the z height is somewhere close to 282mm(+/- 1mm), i am using the Mega 2560 R3 (the clone blew up so they sent me a legit Mega 2560 R3 board) with ramps 1.4 controller and i have the blue tipped inductive bed probe and the aluminum heated bed. where can i find a walk-through for this process so i can upgrade to a Superior firmware like repetier?

Rod length you can measure. Z-height you can measure with a paper test. The build plate that comes with the FT is technically 220 mm, but you lose some areas around the edges because of the screws leaving around 180 mm fully usable (more or less, depending on how close you're going to push it, what screws you used, and how your Z-probe is mounted). Homed height you have to figure out on your own based on the directions in the calibration steps (file: Calibration-Guide-Folger.docx, under headings Paper-test and Calibrate ZMax)

For delta radius, you'll need to look at the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET(or something like that) within the firmware, as mentioned in the calibration steps and adjust it based on your findings. DC42's site will help you determine where on the print surface to do a paper test, and then if you throw in the measurements will do some matrix calculations to give you new measurements that should improve your print quality, including a new value to put in DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET. What you can't do, is software-adjust the endstops, so without a firmware you'll want to make sure bed is as level as possible paper-test wise around the border, and that the distance from your endstops to the upper triangle is as similar as possible for best print quality without changing software - and you can get some decent results this route. S'what I had going until very recently, with little complaints, at least with printing items mainly in the center of the bed.

As for directions on how to put in a new firmware, as far as I know there aren't any out there specific to this printer, since it's pretty heavy on the kit-factor and the rest of us that went that route did it on our own. There's a user around here named paul_delta who's got his FT-capabable Repetier configuration linked on his posts, which is probably a good start if you choose to go that route.

awesome, thank you all for the tips, i have everything calibrated now where it will kind of print, except if i were to print a 50mm circle 25mm of it digs into the bed and 25 of it kind of floats above the bed (after it auto levels)... i tried paul_delta's repetier firmware, however after i added my measurements and what-not, after it was compiled it told me that the firmware was too big, and using almost 80% of available memory in my board, and the message said that could cause printer errors. so i panicked and re-uploaded the FT-kossel rev-b lol, so i am still fiddling with paul_delta's firmware trying to figure out how to make it smaller.

If it digs/floats in a concentric pattern (i.e. floats in the center, digs on the edges) then your concavity is off, which is fixed via DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in Marlin or PRINTER_RADIUS/ROD_RADIUS in Repetier. If it float/digs in a linear pattern (like the right half floats above and the left half digs in) then you'll need to do better physical bed leveling and/or endstop adjustments until the bed is at the exact (or as close as possible) bed height at points near all three towers, and -then- worry about doing concavity adjustments via the aforementioned variables (and this is also where DC42's website becomes super duper extra valuable in saving time, since it'll give you optimal or near-optimal numbers with maths instead of lots and lots of trial and error).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2016 03:14PM by foryst.

Quote
foryst
If it digs/floats in a concentric pattern (i.e. floats in the center, digs on the edges) then your concavity is off, which is fixed via DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in Marlin or PRINTER_RADIUS/ROD_RADIUS in Repetier. If it float/digs in a linear pattern (like the right half floats above and the left half digs in) then you'll need to do better physical bed leveling and/or endstop adjustments until the bed is at the exact (or as close as possible) bed height at points near all three towers, and -then- worry about doing concavity adjustments via the aforementioned variables (and this is also where DC42's website becomes super duper extra valuable in saving time, since it'll give you optimal or near-optimal numbers with maths instead of lots and lots of trial and error).

Awesome thank you, ok so i have the numbers to adjust the bed but how do i put them in my repetier firmware? I tried the m665 and m666 but neither command works.

You may need to use RepetierHost (free printer driver software, and decent) to set them then. Once they're set, they should work regardless of what printer driver software you're using in normal day-to-day printing (like, I had to set mine using RepetierHost, but have been toying with MatterControl as my main print driver, since RepetierHost abandoned mac a few years back). If you're on a windows or linux machine, I know a lot of people keep with the Repetier firmware and RepetierHost combo for the added benefits that the newer versions offer.

Quote
foryst
You may need to use RepetierHost (free printer driver software, and decent) to set them then. Once they're set, they should work regardless of what printer driver software you're using in normal day-to-day printing (like, I had to set mine using RepetierHost, but have been toying with MatterControl as my main print driver, since RepetierHost abandoned mac a few years back). If you're on a windows or linux machine, I know a lot of people keep with the Repetier firmware and RepetierHost combo for the added benefits that the newer versions offer.

I was using both the repetier firmware and control, i figured out my settings however now i seem to have gotten the firmware turning the extruder motor backwards.... lol one fight at a time.

I also just built one last week. I am thrilled to have found this thread as the instructions were a bit lacking.

I had dead/inverted end stop issues and firmware setup issues. This got me to a first print that was better than what my Mendel does.Thanks!!

---

shop.hausofdub.com
-Blomker MendelMax 1.5+
-FolgerTech Kossel 2020 RevB