Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic
Posted by raoulito9
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Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 21, 2016 06:37AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Hi.
Here is a short review of my building and using of rostock 301
I'm new to this forum, but wanted to talk about this printer I just bought and have build.
This is my third printer, first was a Fabikator mini (hobbyking), second was a geeetech G2S Pro.
I dont need but i love to build machines, and to be able to print every useless plastic thing i want.
After my succesfull G2S Pro build, i wanted to try the diamond head, with mixing colors.
I bough This :
[www.geeetech.com]
I recieved it and easily finished the build in about 12 H (i'm quite slow, but it's a part of the pleasure)
The mechanics is quite similar to my previous build, the G2S Pro, and the wiring part is significantly better than on G2S Pro.
Geeetech building instructions were ok for me.
[www.geeetech.com]
user manual is... not fantastic. [www.geeetech.com]
Prefer Cura, and lower print speeds...
The firmware of this printer is not open source. On geetech forum, my name is also Raoulito9 (don't ask why a so lame name), and I already posted sometimes, alwais asking to release source code, no effect for now.
Here are the main steps for me to pay attention when building that printer, and getting it to print something.
1 When assembling, verify the rods lengh; mine where correct, exactly 200 mm.
2 When configuring printer, after levelling the bed (caliper needed), on printer screen adjust printer rod lengh (200 for me), printer heigh (225 for me) and Z offset (0,2 for me), Rod radius was 93,1 for me.
2,5 Add some elastic bitween rods, to limit head loose moves.
2.6 pay great attention when mounting the screen holders that are very weak, I broke both of them...
3 Unmount the useless extruder fans. Yesss, you get 3X 40 mm fans for free
4 change crappy stock etruder mechanism with something serious ( metallic and where you can ajust spring). THAT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO PRINT BEFORE THIS STEP
5 Keep bowden tubes as short as possible (50 cm)
6 Push vrefs : 0,85 for steppers, 1,04 (max possible for me) for extruders (stock vref loosed many steps for me)
7 When configuring in repetier, use Cura instead of Slic3r.
8 I print PLA; right temp is 210 for me, no heating bed is needed.
9 Top and bottom thickness = 1mm
10 Speeds : All prints bitween 15 and 20 mm/s. Moving 40 mm/s.
11 retract : 5 mm
12 end code script, erase the disable steppers command, replace by G28 (home) command.
The printer is way slower than whet is said by geeetech
Above 30 mm/s, extruders can't follow and loose step, and quality is awfull (for me)
Mixing feature is not supported in gcodes. Only knob and printer screen.
Links :
Firmware
[www.geeetech.com]
Burning specific 301 Firmware :
[www.geeetech.com]
My experince.
Something is unclear for me in new firmware :
Here is what i've done :
1 put the jumper
2 flash bootloader (Ok, I see the progress bar going on, and the prog tells me it's succesfull)
3 remove jumper
4 launch hyper terminal, right com port, 115000Bauds
5 wait the writings as on your screenshots.
6 hold C Key + disconnect icon.
7 Push 1 key
8 send file Ymodem (new 1.0.0.2 firmware) OK, i see the progress bar, and when finished, some chinese writings in hyper terminal.
Disconnect.
I'm happy and burnt new firmware....
I Reset printer
I verify the versionof my firmware into the control menu from my printer, and it is still 1.0.0.1...
Something went wrong for me but... ?
I tried again, and that time, the new firmware has been burnt. When i verify in printer menu, the control then version, i'm with 1.0.0.2.
No need to burn bootloader again. one time seems enough...
The right 1.0.0.2 firmware is attached to that post.
Because the mechanic is similar with the G2S PRo, many mods are compatible with 301
Useful mods for that printer :
This one is a must. [www.thingiverse.com]
This one is simple, but i made it myself. many alternatives exist. [www.thingiverse.com]
This one is my favourite led holder : [www.thingiverse.com]
Extruder metal kit; without it, impossible to print anything. Stock ones are cheesy craps.
[www.banggood.com]
[www.banggood.com]
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 04:22PM by raoulito9.
Here is a short review of my building and using of rostock 301
I'm new to this forum, but wanted to talk about this printer I just bought and have build.
This is my third printer, first was a Fabikator mini (hobbyking), second was a geeetech G2S Pro.
I dont need but i love to build machines, and to be able to print every useless plastic thing i want.
After my succesfull G2S Pro build, i wanted to try the diamond head, with mixing colors.
I bough This :
[www.geeetech.com]
I recieved it and easily finished the build in about 12 H (i'm quite slow, but it's a part of the pleasure)
The mechanics is quite similar to my previous build, the G2S Pro, and the wiring part is significantly better than on G2S Pro.
Geeetech building instructions were ok for me.
[www.geeetech.com]
user manual is... not fantastic. [www.geeetech.com]
Prefer Cura, and lower print speeds...
The firmware of this printer is not open source. On geetech forum, my name is also Raoulito9 (don't ask why a so lame name), and I already posted sometimes, alwais asking to release source code, no effect for now.
Here are the main steps for me to pay attention when building that printer, and getting it to print something.
1 When assembling, verify the rods lengh; mine where correct, exactly 200 mm.
2 When configuring printer, after levelling the bed (caliper needed), on printer screen adjust printer rod lengh (200 for me), printer heigh (225 for me) and Z offset (0,2 for me), Rod radius was 93,1 for me.
2,5 Add some elastic bitween rods, to limit head loose moves.
2.6 pay great attention when mounting the screen holders that are very weak, I broke both of them...
3 Unmount the useless extruder fans. Yesss, you get 3X 40 mm fans for free
4 change crappy stock etruder mechanism with something serious ( metallic and where you can ajust spring). THAT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO PRINT BEFORE THIS STEP
5 Keep bowden tubes as short as possible (50 cm)
6 Push vrefs : 0,85 for steppers, 1,04 (max possible for me) for extruders (stock vref loosed many steps for me)
7 When configuring in repetier, use Cura instead of Slic3r.
8 I print PLA; right temp is 210 for me, no heating bed is needed.
9 Top and bottom thickness = 1mm
10 Speeds : All prints bitween 15 and 20 mm/s. Moving 40 mm/s.
11 retract : 5 mm
12 end code script, erase the disable steppers command, replace by G28 (home) command.
The printer is way slower than whet is said by geeetech
Above 30 mm/s, extruders can't follow and loose step, and quality is awfull (for me)
Mixing feature is not supported in gcodes. Only knob and printer screen.
Links :
Firmware
[www.geeetech.com]
Burning specific 301 Firmware :
[www.geeetech.com]
My experince.
Something is unclear for me in new firmware :
Here is what i've done :
1 put the jumper
2 flash bootloader (Ok, I see the progress bar going on, and the prog tells me it's succesfull)
3 remove jumper
4 launch hyper terminal, right com port, 115000Bauds
5 wait the writings as on your screenshots.
6 hold C Key + disconnect icon.
7 Push 1 key
8 send file Ymodem (new 1.0.0.2 firmware) OK, i see the progress bar, and when finished, some chinese writings in hyper terminal.
Disconnect.
I'm happy and burnt new firmware....
I Reset printer
Something went wrong for me but... ?
I tried again, and that time, the new firmware has been burnt. When i verify in printer menu, the control then version, i'm with 1.0.0.2.
No need to burn bootloader again. one time seems enough...
The right 1.0.0.2 firmware is attached to that post.
Because the mechanic is similar with the G2S PRo, many mods are compatible with 301
Useful mods for that printer :
This one is a must. [www.thingiverse.com]
This one is simple, but i made it myself. many alternatives exist. [www.thingiverse.com]
This one is my favourite led holder : [www.thingiverse.com]
Extruder metal kit; without it, impossible to print anything. Stock ones are cheesy craps.
[www.banggood.com]
[www.banggood.com]
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 04:22PM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 21, 2016 06:39AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 21, 2016 06:44AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Print i can do now and video of my printter in action (not slowmo...)
[www.youtube.com]
[www.youtube.com]
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 21, 2016 08:26AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
Hi raoulito9,
Thank you for the feedback, as discussed before on geeetech (moderated) forum, i'm facing some of your issues too.
I've finished mounting my printer last week, after some troubles with a motor wire i've succeeded printing a cube ok 20 by 20 mm.
I have some layer shifting i think due to the speed too high, i'll try this weekend lowering it.
Raoulito9, i've seen in your vidéo that the feedrate is set to 220 % is that normal ?
I'm using slic3r and have never used cura, i'll give it a try this weekend. If you can share your cura settings for PLA that would greatly appreciate your help.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 08:27AM by flintewn.
Thank you for the feedback, as discussed before on geeetech (moderated) forum, i'm facing some of your issues too.
I've finished mounting my printer last week, after some troubles with a motor wire i've succeeded printing a cube ok 20 by 20 mm.
I have some layer shifting i think due to the speed too high, i'll try this weekend lowering it.
Raoulito9, i've seen in your vidéo that the feedrate is set to 220 % is that normal ?
I'm using slic3r and have never used cura, i'll give it a try this weekend. If you can share your cura settings for PLA that would greatly appreciate your help.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 08:27AM by flintewn.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 21, 2016 01:37PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
hi Flintewn
you wil find attached my cura conf files, just import them into cura printer (.rcp) then cura filament (.rcf)
I'm satisfied with them.
Slic3r has more parameters and seems to be more complete, but it is slower, and the same thing printed with Cura is just ... faster and better printed.
Yes 220 is normal, i was trying to speed up a little the slooooow 15 mm/s printing. This is why in my settings, i suggest to set print speed bitween 15 and 30 mm/s.
I think we could speed these up a little more, playing with acceleration factors, but i don't know how to do in printer settings. For the G2S, it was in firmware...
We have yet many things to get from geeetech chinese / moderated forum to share with free people !
you wil find attached my cura conf files, just import them into cura printer (.rcp) then cura filament (.rcf)
I'm satisfied with them.
Slic3r has more parameters and seems to be more complete, but it is slower, and the same thing printed with Cura is just ... faster and better printed.
Yes 220 is normal, i was trying to speed up a little the slooooow 15 mm/s printing. This is why in my settings, i suggest to set print speed bitween 15 and 30 mm/s.
I think we could speed these up a little more, playing with acceleration factors, but i don't know how to do in printer settings. For the G2S, it was in firmware...
We have yet many things to get from geeetech chinese / moderated forum to share with free people !
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 22, 2016 03:05AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 22, 2016 10:22AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
my second print after some calibration in slic3r.
Retraction :
Lenght : 5
speed : 40
Print moves :
everything set to 30 except small perimeters and gap fill set to 20
Travel speed : 50
extrusion multiplier : 1.1
Video
The object is nutcracker that i designed in FreeCAD, the poc in the link below.
POC
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2016 11:33AM by flintewn.
Retraction :
Lenght : 5
speed : 40
Print moves :
everything set to 30 except small perimeters and gap fill set to 20
Travel speed : 50
extrusion multiplier : 1.1
Video
The object is nutcracker that i designed in FreeCAD, the poc in the link below.
POC
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2016 11:33AM by flintewn.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 22, 2016 08:09PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 11 |
Raoulito,
What did you do to level the bed. I did the following and still cannot level my concave bed.
1. I added a glass plate(It works well with my Cartesian printers this is my first Rostock)
2. Firmware was upgraded, limit switches tested and motors,belts function correctly.
3. Using calipers I set the bed to platform distance @13mm all around the build plate.
4 Following all the guides I could find from Geeetech, I set the 4 scripts in Repetier Host to the same in the manual except I added G28 first. And set each limit SW to a piece of paper folded in half.
5. The next step is to send the carrage to the middle(x0 y0 z0) and measure the distance. Mine is .84mm so I have a concave distance.
Here is where I am stuck. The instructions are to go to Control>Delta>Delta Radius and decrease it. But nothing happens
It started at 89.0 and I lowered it to 0 with no effect. I raised it to 150 still no effect.
My script 1. looks like this
G28
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 F3000
Is this the correct parameter to adjust? Or am I missing something?
What did you do to level the bed. I did the following and still cannot level my concave bed.
1. I added a glass plate(It works well with my Cartesian printers this is my first Rostock)
2. Firmware was upgraded, limit switches tested and motors,belts function correctly.
3. Using calipers I set the bed to platform distance @13mm all around the build plate.
4 Following all the guides I could find from Geeetech, I set the 4 scripts in Repetier Host to the same in the manual except I added G28 first. And set each limit SW to a piece of paper folded in half.
5. The next step is to send the carrage to the middle(x0 y0 z0) and measure the distance. Mine is .84mm so I have a concave distance.
Here is where I am stuck. The instructions are to go to Control>Delta>Delta Radius and decrease it. But nothing happens
It started at 89.0 and I lowered it to 0 with no effect. I raised it to 150 still no effect.
My script 1. looks like this
G28
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 F3000
Is this the correct parameter to adjust? Or am I missing something?
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 23, 2016 05:00AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Hello Extruder.
If bed is concave, then reduce the Control/delta/delta radius value.
If it is convexe, the augment it.
Right value is 93,1 for me, with 200 mm diagonal rod lengh.
Did you do "Control / Store memory" after changing a value ?
For the scrip 1, i would prefer this :
G0 X0 Y0 Z5 F3000
No need to home each time, one time before using scripts is enough...
Z = 5 to avoid chashing in bed... then lower Z manually mm/mm and 1/10mm/1/10mm
other scripts may send your head close to columns, to be able to set the endstop screw of each column.
Scrip for X column is :
G0 X-60 Y-35 Z5 F3000
Good luck
If bed is concave, then reduce the Control/delta/delta radius value.
If it is convexe, the augment it.
Right value is 93,1 for me, with 200 mm diagonal rod lengh.
Did you do "Control / Store memory" after changing a value ?
For the scrip 1, i would prefer this :
G0 X0 Y0 Z5 F3000
No need to home each time, one time before using scripts is enough...
Z = 5 to avoid chashing in bed... then lower Z manually mm/mm and 1/10mm/1/10mm
other scripts may send your head close to columns, to be able to set the endstop screw of each column.
Scrip for X column is :
G0 X-60 Y-35 Z5 F3000
Good luck
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 23, 2016 06:43AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
Hi extruder,
Your steps looks good, but as asked by raoulito do you store your changes.
Me to check if it's good, after storing i reset and see if the changes are still there.
My scripts given by geeetech :
Center :
G0 X0 Y0 Z2
X axis :
G0 X-73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
Z axis :
G0 X0 Y85 Z2
Y axis :
G0 X73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
You'll find the leveling guide in the attachement.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 10:38AM by flintewn.
Your steps looks good, but as asked by raoulito do you store your changes.
Me to check if it's good, after storing i reset and see if the changes are still there.
My scripts given by geeetech :
Center :
G0 X0 Y0 Z2
X axis :
G0 X-73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
Z axis :
G0 X0 Y85 Z2
Y axis :
G0 X73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
You'll find the leveling guide in the attachement.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 10:38AM by flintewn.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 23, 2016 11:59AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 11 |
I was saving it to memory but I was missing a step even though I did see it in the attachment.
What I was doing wrong was repeating realignment of the three towers after each change. For some reason I was expecting the position x0 y0 z0 to change and that was not the case. when I changed Delta Radius to 150, I sent the carriage to tower to X. It tried to go out of the machine. that's when I realized Delta Radius was changing the outer perimeter and not x0 y0 z0. After repeating steps 1-4 and readjusting many times over, the bed is level. Finally settling on a Delta Radius of 90.5 even if this number should be 90.45 but the firmware will not allow changes that precise.
Now onto Calibrating the extruders. My first perception is that the extruders are slipping(Vref's at 1.1) so I am going to take Raoulito9's advice and order the extruder kits from Banggood.
Which one's did you buy? Normal, Right or Left?
The only problem is they take a month to deliver anything so I am going to try to change the spring or use the extruder from another printer for now.
There is no guide to calibrating the extruders so I think I have the parameter to adjust but I would like everyone's thoughts on this.
Using the calipers I marked 100mm on the bowden tubes and adjust the parameter to match(assuming I correct the slippage).
I think the parameter is E:steps/mm 95
but what is Vmax E: 1000?
and Amax E: 800?
or if I am completely wrong and there is another procedure.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:20PM by Extruder0.
What I was doing wrong was repeating realignment of the three towers after each change. For some reason I was expecting the position x0 y0 z0 to change and that was not the case. when I changed Delta Radius to 150, I sent the carriage to tower to X. It tried to go out of the machine. that's when I realized Delta Radius was changing the outer perimeter and not x0 y0 z0. After repeating steps 1-4 and readjusting many times over, the bed is level. Finally settling on a Delta Radius of 90.5 even if this number should be 90.45 but the firmware will not allow changes that precise.
Now onto Calibrating the extruders. My first perception is that the extruders are slipping(Vref's at 1.1) so I am going to take Raoulito9's advice and order the extruder kits from Banggood.
Which one's did you buy? Normal, Right or Left?
The only problem is they take a month to deliver anything so I am going to try to change the spring or use the extruder from another printer for now.
There is no guide to calibrating the extruders so I think I have the parameter to adjust but I would like everyone's thoughts on this.
Using the calipers I marked 100mm on the bowden tubes and adjust the parameter to match(assuming I correct the slippage).
I think the parameter is E:steps/mm 95
but what is Vmax E: 1000?
and Amax E: 800?
or if I am completely wrong and there is another procedure.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:20PM by Extruder0.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 23, 2016 01:27PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Hi extruder.
I bough Right ones (type 3), and they fit perfectly.
Dont forget to buy the PC4-M6 Pneumatic Straight Fitting Nozzle, they are 1$ each, but are not included in the extruder package...
For banggood, I live in france, and if I choose priority direct mail, for 2,88 bucks, parcells come to me in one week... (what i've done for my extruders)
Concerning the extruder calibration, i must admit i've not calibrated anything. It works as it is...
Regards.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2016 12:04PM by raoulito9.
I bough Right ones (type 3), and they fit perfectly.
Dont forget to buy the PC4-M6 Pneumatic Straight Fitting Nozzle, they are 1$ each, but are not included in the extruder package...
For banggood, I live in france, and if I choose priority direct mail, for 2,88 bucks, parcells come to me in one week... (what i've done for my extruders)
Concerning the extruder calibration, i must admit i've not calibrated anything. It works as it is...
Regards.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2016 12:04PM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 24, 2016 12:58PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
I took A little time to calibrate Z.
I'm happy now.
My print will be smooth, and the first layer is perfect (for me) ; see attached photo.
Track in blue tape result from previous tries, with bad calibration :-)
I'm building a 18 cm large part, with no problem ! Let's cross fingers.
On the photo, you can notice how i use my rod hocks, and that i stuffed with cotton the space bitween nozzle and radiators / fan.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2016 01:01PM by raoulito9.
I'm happy now.
My print will be smooth, and the first layer is perfect (for me) ; see attached photo.
Track in blue tape result from previous tries, with bad calibration :-)
I'm building a 18 cm large part, with no problem ! Let's cross fingers.
On the photo, you can notice how i use my rod hocks, and that i stuffed with cotton the space bitween nozzle and radiators / fan.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2016 01:01PM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 24, 2016 06:45PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 11 |
I will have to wait until Wednesday for the metal Extruders to arrive. The only way I can print is to slow the feedrate to 25% and extrusion to 2mm/sec. Even though the first layer looks good the second leaves blobs or missed spots. But after 1 hour to print a 40mm cube its not worth the time. What a shame to buy a printer that does not print.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 24, 2016 07:03PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 26, 2016 06:07AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 26, 2016 08:24AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
This is correct Flintewn, and this shows that Extruder and I made something wrong because you were able to print correctly with the plastic (+ metallic gear) extruder mechanism...
Flintewn also sent me photos from his nozzle, and it looks exactly the same than mine.
Where is the difference ?
Whe also had many discussions about that with another person (René), and i tried to test my PTFE tubes, but no spécific resistance in my config. I even tried to drill a little bit more the 0,4 nozzle with special drills... Absolutely no effect..
Well, even if now, the printer works well for me, i'd like to know why the stock extruders were ok for flintewn and not for me...
Flintewn also sent me photos from his nozzle, and it looks exactly the same than mine.
Where is the difference ?
Whe also had many discussions about that with another person (René), and i tried to test my PTFE tubes, but no spécific resistance in my config. I even tried to drill a little bit more the 0,4 nozzle with special drills... Absolutely no effect..
Well, even if now, the printer works well for me, i'd like to know why the stock extruders were ok for flintewn and not for me...
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 26, 2016 08:48AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 26, 2016 12:40PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Hi .
Today I had an intersting answer from geeetech moderated forum :
My Question was :
Can i pilot a layer fan with the 1.0.0.2 firmware if i plug it to the pwm plug from extruder 2 or 3 extension board ?
I say pilot because i want it to swich on at second or third layer... Not to blow all time.
Answer is :
Postby William Kwok » 27 Oct 2016 03:10
The PWM control on extruder2/3 extension board is available,so you can have a control with a G-code like "M106 P1/2 S255" to have a control.
I plan to add a 50 mm blower, software piloted, but to avoid adding weigt on noozzle, i imagine to leave it ont the top of the printer, to plug it to some soft tube and then to add just a light fixation to the nozzle.
What do you think about that ?
The first thing will be to really pilot the fan, automatically, with repetier...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2016 03:46AM by raoulito9.
Today I had an intersting answer from geeetech moderated forum :
My Question was :
Can i pilot a layer fan with the 1.0.0.2 firmware if i plug it to the pwm plug from extruder 2 or 3 extension board ?
I say pilot because i want it to swich on at second or third layer... Not to blow all time.
Answer is :
Postby William Kwok » 27 Oct 2016 03:10
The PWM control on extruder2/3 extension board is available,so you can have a control with a G-code like "M106 P1/2 S255" to have a control.
I plan to add a 50 mm blower, software piloted, but to avoid adding weigt on noozzle, i imagine to leave it ont the top of the printer, to plug it to some soft tube and then to add just a light fixation to the nozzle.
What do you think about that ?
The first thing will be to really pilot the fan, automatically, with repetier...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2016 03:46AM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 27, 2016 04:23AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 1 |
good morning!
I've recently bought a geeetech rostock 301 3D printer.
i though the toughest part would be the assembling process but, once i had the printer fully assembled, i realized that the hardest part was the configuration process. i've searched for information on different forums and everyone does it his own way so i am completely lost in the config process. in two months i haven't been able to print anything.
could someone give me some advices or a guide step by step about how to configure the printer once assembled.
which program do i should use? CURA, SLICER? REPETIER HOST, REPETIER SERVER?
How do i put a correct configuration on REPETIER? how do i correctly level the hot bed? do i have to buy that blue tape the people use on those printers? do the serial extruders will work properly or i have to buy the metal ones?
Are the extruder fans necessary?
are the scripts correct?
1- G0 X0 Y0 Z2
2- G0 X-73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
3 -G0 X0 Y85 Z2
4-G0 X73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
PLEASE HELP!
I've recently bought a geeetech rostock 301 3D printer.
i though the toughest part would be the assembling process but, once i had the printer fully assembled, i realized that the hardest part was the configuration process. i've searched for information on different forums and everyone does it his own way so i am completely lost in the config process. in two months i haven't been able to print anything.
could someone give me some advices or a guide step by step about how to configure the printer once assembled.
which program do i should use? CURA, SLICER? REPETIER HOST, REPETIER SERVER?
How do i put a correct configuration on REPETIER? how do i correctly level the hot bed? do i have to buy that blue tape the people use on those printers? do the serial extruders will work properly or i have to buy the metal ones?
Are the extruder fans necessary?
are the scripts correct?
1- G0 X0 Y0 Z2
2- G0 X-73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
3 -G0 X0 Y85 Z2
4-G0 X73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
PLEASE HELP!
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 27, 2016 05:43AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
Quote
Alvic
good morning!
I've recently bought a geeetech rostock 301 3D printer.
i though the toughest part would be the assembling process but, once i had the printer fully assembled, i realized that the hardest part was the configuration process. i've searched for information on different forums and everyone does it his own way so i am completely lost in the config process. in two months i haven't been able to print anything.
This printer i quite tricky, it is my third one. I must admit i'm not sure i would have been able to print anything if it has been my first one...
could someone give me some advices or a guide step by step about how to configure the printer once assembled.
which program do i should use? CURA, SLICER? REPETIER HOST, REPETIER SERVER?
1 You will use repetier host to control the printer, and inside repetier host, you will chose the slicer (cura or slic3r) you want. Slicer is the module that will translate the 3D model into a path, layer by layer, for the noozle
How do i put a correct configuration on REPETIER?
2 Configuring repetier is quite fast, and... just follow step buy step the geeetech 301 users guide. The only difficulty is to find the right com port. Ensure you choose 115000 bauds.
3 configuring slicer : Choose Cura as slicer engine into slicer tab of repetier, thn go into configuration (configuration button into slicer tab) Then just download and import into Cura my RCP (printer) and RCF (filament) settings (you can get them some posts ahead). They are correct for PLA. I prefer Cura, and geeetech describes how to configure Slic3r.
do i have to buy that blue tape the people use on those printers?
Yes : two advantages, it helps first layer to stick correctly to the bed, it protects a little the bed from nozzle crashes... Usefull for PLA. For ABS, people use borosillicate extra bed + Hair fixing spray. Just print PLA on blue tape, it is way simpler.
do the serial extruders will work properly or i have to buy the metal ones?
For some people stoc works (flintewn), not for me, neither for the guy whose name is extruder (see ahead). BTW, Metallic ones are cheap and easy to add. You'll see if you need them when you'll try your first prints.
Are the extruder fans necessary?
No. you can remove or unplug them.
are the scripts correct?
1- G0 X0 Y0 Z2
2- G0 X-73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
3 -G0 X0 Y85 Z2
4-G0 X73.61 Y-42.50 Z2
Script are used to level bed, to verify tha the noozzle is coorect for the Z, close to each tower and to center
for example Scrip 1 sends nozzle to the center of the bed at 2mm from bed. Scripts 2, 3 and 4 might send noozzle at 2mm from bed, close to each tower.
how do i correctly level the hot bed?
This is the tricky part.
Be patient. Once done correctly, you'll be able to print !!!
1 with a caliper ensure each of the 3 bed butterfly screw is exactly the same hight. If you don't own a caliper, use something solid tu verify the hight of each screw. (my momory is that bed is at arount 1.3 cm from the printer "floor" plate) What is important is that each scew gives the same distance for bed.
2 Your goal is that at the center of the bed (x,y = 0), at Z = 0,1, you can, with some difficulty, skid a A4 80 G shit of paper. At Z = 0 paper cannot move. At 0,2 shit moves quasy freely.
3 Your next goal is the same, but close to each tower. You can adjust your Z close to each tower with the screw + spring installed on the moving part, that hits the endstops switches on top of towers. Each time you adjust the screw, you must Home printer (G28) . Adjust the screws one by one. Adjust each tower one time and when finishd, do it again, because wht you move on one tower will have some influence on the others. Then try at the center of the ded.
4 When this is Ok with Z close to each tower (the paper trick), and if your noozle is far from bed at x and Y = 0, then your bed is concave (opposite is convex). See my previous post for how to correct this effect.
Using repetier ?
Choose a simple stl file (one in my previous posts)
Launch repetier host.
Connect printer.
load STL
Slice stl
Go to start printing.
You shold see head homing, then noozzle heating, the when at 210 ° (if you use my conf files) start printing...
Good luck !
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2016 05:45AM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 27, 2016 09:49AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
raoulito9
What do you think about that ?
I think your idea fits perfectly with your requirement, because you need to switch on and off, as mentionned by geeetech use the M106 g-code command.
For me as discussed before, i'll use an airpump with crystal a crystal soft tubing comming and fixed next to the nozzle.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 28, 2016 06:01AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 41 |
I improved the quality of my printing :
I can't edit my first post, so here is what i modified.
Retract : 6 mm, and speed 10mm/s
Flow : drastically decreased it, in cura slicer it is set to 75 %, and when printing, in repetier's manual contols, i am still testing, but i get the best results whit 50 or 60 %
So i imagine tha I send 60 % from 75% from the standard filament "flow". Less than half compared to stock settings.
Prints are better, cleaner, and regular.
I'm still on a 15mm/sec printing speed.
I leave it at 100% speed to get the best first layer possible, and for the next layers, i push the speed to 150/160% with no quality problems.
I lowered the acceleration variable on printer screen, stock it was 5000, i'm now on 500, with no noticiable effect. I'll lower it again, but the knob is a pain to use for these settings.
I had problems at 180% with a difficult print (many small parts, with many retracts)
I've not tried yet to print 0,1 mm layers...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2016 06:09AM by raoulito9.
I can't edit my first post, so here is what i modified.
Retract : 6 mm, and speed 10mm/s
Flow : drastically decreased it, in cura slicer it is set to 75 %, and when printing, in repetier's manual contols, i am still testing, but i get the best results whit 50 or 60 %
So i imagine tha I send 60 % from 75% from the standard filament "flow". Less than half compared to stock settings.
Prints are better, cleaner, and regular.
I'm still on a 15mm/sec printing speed.
I leave it at 100% speed to get the best first layer possible, and for the next layers, i push the speed to 150/160% with no quality problems.
I lowered the acceleration variable on printer screen, stock it was 5000, i'm now on 500, with no noticiable effect. I'll lower it again, but the knob is a pain to use for these settings.
I had problems at 180% with a difficult print (many small parts, with many retracts)
I've not tried yet to print 0,1 mm layers...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2016 06:09AM by raoulito9.
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 28, 2016 06:08AM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 29, 2016 08:10PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 5 |
hi Raoulito9
Thank you for all your posts above which is very helpfull.
I bought this Rostock 301 last week. assembled it over 3 days.
this is the 1st 3d printer i assembled ( i have another one CTC 3d printer which i bought already assebled)
So far I have done bed leveling and checked extruder which working bearly ok.
Problems
1. still i could not even get the first print.
2, extruder fan is not working not sure whether i have plugged that in the right place?
i think i need to resolve above before doing any printing.
can you please give me some adviced
thx
Thank you for all your posts above which is very helpfull.
I bought this Rostock 301 last week. assembled it over 3 days.
this is the 1st 3d printer i assembled ( i have another one CTC 3d printer which i bought already assebled)
So far I have done bed leveling and checked extruder which working bearly ok.
Problems
1. still i could not even get the first print.
2, extruder fan is not working not sure whether i have plugged that in the right place?
i think i need to resolve above before doing any printing.
can you please give me some adviced
thx
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 29, 2016 08:51PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 5 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 30, 2016 12:40PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 11 |
I had that version and then I loaded the firmware in the first post in this topic 1.0.02 so I am not sure if I upgraded or downgraded but I started out with 1.1.01.
The metal extruders came yesterday and after extensive pondering( No instructions) I finally figured out that you need to go buy your own extruder mounting bolts. They are M3 x 25mm and you will need 9 of them.
Flintewn... I still have the vref's high as the extruders do not slip now but they stall as you can only push so much plastic through the nozzle. so setting the extrusion multiplier above 1.2 does not make it perform any better. The Geeetech Rostock 301 could really benefit from a geared extruder. If anyone comes up with a design before I do please share.
My first prints look great even though after 70 % of the way through the filiment got tangled and stopped printing. I did find something interesting however, In Repetier Host you can click a different extruder mid-print and it will change colors. I will hold of on revealing my configuration info until it prints 3 seperate prints successfully. Then I will tell all. just need to work on retraction now as it drools terriblly
The metal extruders came yesterday and after extensive pondering( No instructions) I finally figured out that you need to go buy your own extruder mounting bolts. They are M3 x 25mm and you will need 9 of them.
Flintewn... I still have the vref's high as the extruders do not slip now but they stall as you can only push so much plastic through the nozzle. so setting the extrusion multiplier above 1.2 does not make it perform any better. The Geeetech Rostock 301 could really benefit from a geared extruder. If anyone comes up with a design before I do please share.
My first prints look great even though after 70 % of the way through the filiment got tangled and stopped printing. I did find something interesting however, In Repetier Host you can click a different extruder mid-print and it will change colors. I will hold of on revealing my configuration info until it prints 3 seperate prints successfully. Then I will tell all. just need to work on retraction now as it drools terriblly
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 30, 2016 12:43PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 11 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 30, 2016 04:03PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 12 |
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Re: Geeetech Rostock 301 first topic October 30, 2016 07:15PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 5 |
Hi Extruder0 and flintewn
Thank you for your replies
I still couldn`t get a proper print.
I will try upgrading my firmware version.
I have plastic extruders I don`t think they work good as metal ones.
Geared extruders will be really good if somebody come up with a design as you said.
When i plugged my hot end fan to hot end fan extruder as on the picture it did not work. does it start to work after certain temp.
Thx
isuru
Thank you for your replies
I still couldn`t get a proper print.
I will try upgrading my firmware version.
I have plastic extruders I don`t think they work good as metal ones.
Geared extruders will be really good if somebody come up with a design as you said.
When i plugged my hot end fan to hot end fan extruder as on the picture it did not work. does it start to work after certain temp.
Thx
isuru
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