iKessel - Kossel XL with ikea enclosure

With my prior experience in coreXY I wanted a printer that is enclosed to be able to print ABS and reduce the amount of dust accumulated after a while.
With that, I started to think of what is the simplest method to enclose the delta without the need to do a lot of "custom" work.
As you all know, once you start doing custom stuff, prices goes up, as you don't have the mass volume to bring the price down. With that I started to look at ikea selection for the enclosure.
They are readily available with many finish, colour and sizes, and you can take advantage of their volume.
Using ikea enclosure is not something new, the prusa type machines have been using them but nobody seems to use it for the delta so I had to figure out how to mix and match them.
I finally settled on metod kitchen for the enclosure (60cm depth) and Besta doors . The back is made out of metod shelf and held by L bracket at the back. This works out really well as I have tonnes of space to mount my electronics.

The Delta is based of DC42 large delta using Duet Wifi and smart effector. The build is probably 90% similar. Coming from MKS SBase, I really liked the duet web interface and the ability to autocalibrate without going through the tedious traditional method of calibrating the delta. In fact I didn't even need to calibrate much and was up and running an hour after being built.
My only gripe is that there is additional learning curve as the MCodes are not self descriptive.

First few calibration print was dimension accurate but had ribbing all over the print, turns out the e3d wasn't screwed properly to the effector causing it to wobble. I think some loctite will be needed here.

Next step is to get some car air purifier to filter out all the fumes and smell as well as getting PLA and PETG settings dialed in. You can really smell the PLA once the enclosure is opened after a long print. I'm not going to take any chances with ABS.

Very nice! I might try that myself.

What are you using to attach the flying extruder to the carriages, and what are the red printed parts at the bottom of the towers for?

You might want to print covers for the mains terminals on the SSR and the power supply.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
Very nice! I might try that myself.

What are you using to attach the flying extruder to the carriages, and what are the red printed parts at the bottom of the towers for?

You might want to print covers for the mains terminals on the SSR and the power supply.

Those are silicon tubes I think, usually used for water cooling. I think it's silicon because it feels rubbery and limp.

The red printed parts are alignment jigs to attach the MGN12 rails. Haven't got a chance to remove it yet.

Cool, nice enclosure. Ikea will be marketing this for 3D printers soon you know.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

I was wondering if "Britax" water filter are any good for enclosure ventilation?

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o_lampe
I was wondering if "Britax" water filter are any good for enclosure ventilation?

That's a good question. Can you convert a general purpose carbon water filter system to an air filter system.
Just take an aquarium air pump and pump air through the filters and back to the enclosure(close loop), the filters can be placed outside the enclosure. I wonder if anyone attempted to do that since carbon water filters are common and available cheaply.

0.12mm layer height


20mm calibration cube 0.2mm layer height

Layer alignment is pretty good.


3D Bency first print. Looks like need to worka little bit on retraction and the quality of filament. This filament is already a year old, seems to give a lot more stringing than usual.


Vase first print

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2018 12:21AM by Vigilant.

Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one.
A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seems simple enough without needing additional hardware.
I only want the chamber to be in the 45-50c region so I think my 500W bed should have some spare power to heat up the whole chamber. The heated bed will be at 90-100C so it sounds like it should be doable.

You'd need a second fan on top of the enclosure to distribute the heat evenly.

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Vigilant
[attachment 101124 Heatedchamber.JPG]

Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one.
A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seems simple enough without needing additional hardware.
I only want the chamber to be in the 45-50c region so I think my 500W bed should have some spare power to heat up the whole chamber. The heated bed will be at 90-100C so it sounds like it should be doable.

So you are cooling one heat source in order to maintain the heat of another?

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Origamib

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Vigilant
[attachment 101124 Heatedchamber.JPG]

Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one.
A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seems simple enough without needing additional hardware.
I only want the chamber to be in the 45-50c region so I think my 500W bed should have some spare power to heat up the whole chamber. The heated bed will be at 90-100C so it sounds like it should be doable.

So you are cooling one heat source in order to maintain the heat of another?

Yup which means the heated bed is forced to work harder to heat both sides.

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Vigilant

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Origamib

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Vigilant
[attachment 101124 Heatedchamber.JPG]

Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one.
A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seems simple enough without needing additional hardware.
I only want the chamber to be in the 45-50c region so I think my 500W bed should have some spare power to heat up the whole chamber. The heated bed will be at 90-100C so it sounds like it should be doable.

So you are cooling one heat source in order to maintain the heat of another?

Yup which means the heated bed is forced to work harder to heat both sides.

I have a similar setup with my enclosed printer (using acrylic pannels). I have a 350W heater and a couple of fans blowing the air from the electronics compartment through the base cover. I am getting about 40C inside the housing, and that's considering a 350W and very bad isolation. So I think 500W will do well. I do have a thermal isolation on the back of my bad heater though, just to make sure I will not cool the bed down.
Would you care to share the links for the IKEA stuf? I am not an IKEA specialist , so it is very hard to find the things you described.

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Teilchen

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Vigilant

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Origamib

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Vigilant
[attachment 101124 Heatedchamber.JPG]

Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one.
A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seems simple enough without needing additional hardware.
I only want the chamber to be in the 45-50c region so I think my 500W bed should have some spare power to heat up the whole chamber. The heated bed will be at 90-100C so it sounds like it should be doable.

So you are cooling one heat source in order to maintain the heat of another?

Yup which means the heated bed is forced to work harder to heat both sides.

I have a similar setup with my enclosed printer (using acrylic pannels). I have a 350W heater and a couple of fans blowing the air from the electronics compartment through the base cover. I am getting about 40C inside the housing, and that's considering a 350W and very bad isolation. So I think 500W will do well. I do have a thermal isolation on the back of my bad heater though, just to make sure I will not cool the bed down.
Would you care to share the links for the IKEA stuf? I am not an IKEA specialist , so it is very hard to find the things you described.

Where are you from , I just realised the US calls their kitchen range Sekiton instead of Metod, and the difference is the US uses inches instead of mm/cm.

Anyway here are the links

60 cm frame height
[www.ikea.com]
80cm frame height
[www.ikea.com]

Glass door
Besta system

Sindvik
64cm height
[www.ikea.com]

Sindvik
38 cm height
[www.ikea.com]

Lapviken
38cm height
[www.ikea.com]


You need to mix and match based on your height and whether you want to put your spool at the top.
Mine is 140cm height consisting of 80cm height + 60 cm height cabinet as I wanted to put the spool on top of the drawer, have "active" dehumidifier and put all my Zencelo switches there.
Another cool thing is you can use the lighting in the enclosure to do some product photography as well.



photo upload
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2018 11:15AM by Vigilant.

3d Benchy with a new a spool of PLA. So much better than my previous Corexy and prints faster too.

0.12 mm layer height

I am from Europe, just not experienced enough to combine things like these myself .
Thanks for the links!

Awesome prints by the way!

!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2018 08:52PM by Alu.