Delta without a filament that does not jam

Hello Everyone,
I bought my Reprap Delta a year ago. Since then I have not reused it because the filament melts and clogs the plastic pipe. Before it was after 4 minutes of printing and now I can go up to 30 minutes so I can't print large objects that will take time.

nozzle
Filament

I tried everything (change the plastic tube, tighten the screw...) but I still struggle.
So I thought I'd make a longer screw:

design

Recently I saw a Diamond hotend and I thought maybe that would be the solution.

What do you think?
Do you think this Diamond hotend could fit on my model?

Thank you!

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2018 03:45PM by Romona.

I think the problem is that you don't have any means of keeping the heat break cooling block cool. I can see a heater block, then a gap, then a cooling block which is wider than the heating block. Ok so far. But that cooling block needs to be cooled with a heatsink and fan. Looks like you have a L-shaped heatsink, but there is a gap between it and the cooling block. I don't think that gap should be there.

The Diamond is a very large hot end, difficult to fit on a delta. If you are going to change the hot end then I suggest a E3Dv6 or Lite6 instead. But it should be possible to get your existing bot end working, you just need to ensure that there's a heatsink in contact with the cooling block (preferably with heatsink paste between them) and a fan to cool the heatsink.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thank you for yor answer.
You can see more detail Here.

I indicate that when I print the fan is not running I have always thought that it is triggered automatically when it needs it during printing. With Repetier-Host I can make it work to test, but it remains disabled by default like the heater so I figured it was normal.
Should I activate it then?

Actualy the hot end work very well i just have probleme with the screw on the top.
The plastic tube must be sculpted and screwed inside the screw, that's why I thought it would be a good idea to change the connection between the tube and the hot end (the screw).

The fan should be on either all the time (permanently wired to 12V or whatever supply voltage it needs), or controlled thermostatically to be on whenever the hot end temperature exceeds about 50C. Otherwise you will get blockages. The fan that is controlled by the slicing program is a separate print cooling fan.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I just plugged the fan into 12v.
Before, the temperature progression stopped 1 to 2 minutes at a few degrees before reaching the target temperature (270°c mine, maybe a little too much but it works) it was annoying. But now with the fan on it stayed there for over 30 minutes I had to stop it.
I don't know how to program the fan to turn on after work has started.
I continue to experiment...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2018 04:30PM by Romona.

270C is too high for most types of filament. What type are you using?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hi sorry for the delay. I use PLA.

PLA is usually printed at 190C to 210C.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

The tutorial that comes with my printer says 230°C.
I tried with 210°C The block filament from the beginning of printing.
I tried 250°C and it prints for a few minutes and freezes.
I went back on 270°C it prints about 30 but there it is the printer which completely derailed, the nozzle leaves the printing area.
If you notice anything, tell me, here's the log on Repetier-Host :

20:17:17.095 : Slic3r command:C:\Program Files\Repetier-Host\Slic3r\slic3r-console.exe --load "slic3r_settings.ini" --dont-arrange -o "composition.gcode" "composition.amf"
20:17:17.111 : Preferred name from AlarmFront to AlarmFront
20:17:17.543 : => Infilling layers
20:17:17.543 : => Processing triangulated mesh
20:17:18.447 : => Preparing infill
20:17:18.477 : => Generating skirt
20:17:18.479 : => Generating brim
20:17:18.479 : => Exporting G-code to composition.gcode
20:17:19.468 : Done. Process took 0 minutes and 1.926 seconds
20:17:19.468 : Filament required: 7027.0mm (16.9cm3)
20:17:19.500 : Slic3r installed in a loclized path. Using an 8.3 path: "C:\PROGRA~1\REPETI~1\Slic3r\"
20:17:22.628 : Unknown command:N31 M107
20:17:27.445 : endstops hit: x_max:H y_max:H z_max:H
20:17:27.507 : endstops hit: x_max:L y_max:L z_max:L
20:17:28.978 : endstops hit: x_max:H y_max:H z_max:H
20:17:28.978 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:189.000 E:0.0000
20:17:29.009 : endstops hit: x_max:L y_max:L z_max:L
20:19:12.072 : Slic3r command:C:\Program Files\Repetier-Host\Slic3r\slic3r-console.exe --gui --datadir "C:\Users\Dark\Documents\Programmation\3D\RepRap"
20:19:19.133 : Slic3r installed in a loclized path. Using an 8.3 path: "C:\PROGRA~1\REPETI~1\Slic3r\"
20:23:09.713 : Impression couche layer 1 sur 72
20:28:44.799 : Impression couche layer 2 sur 72
20:37:06.069 : Error:Wrong checksum
20:37:06.069 : Resend:2304
20:40:29.352 : Impression couche layer 3 sur 72
20:48:47.220 : Printer reset detected - initalizing
20:48:47.220 : start
20:48:48.508 : Transformation matrix: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000
20:48:48.508 : Free RAM:1135
20:48:48.508 : Autoretract:0
20:48:48.508 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000
20:48:48.524 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.92.3 FIRMWARE_URL:[github.com] PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPEelta EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:3
20:48:48.524 : Printed filament:8.94m Printing time:0 days 2 hours 34 min
20:48:48.539 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000
20:48:48.539 : Begin file list
20:48:48.539 : End file list

Thanks!

For PLA, as already mentioned, it's quite rare to exceed 210 °C. I typically print PLA between 185 and 195 °C.

I also second the recommendation of an E3Dv6 extruder if you're planning to replace it. Clones can be had for relatively cheap, in the $15 to $20 range, and they have proven to be pretty reliable in my experience. You could try Gulf Coast Robotics, for instance--last I checked, they carried both 12 V and 24 V versions.

Thanks for all your advice!
I am so tired that I am now looking to buy a good printer ready and easy to use. Right now I'm window shopping on the Dagoma Magis.
Thank you!

On my last try before to order the "Monoprice Select Mini v2", I finally managed to print my model in 2h30 without any problem.

If it can help anyone else:
1. I added a switch to my fan and turned it on manually after 15 minutes of printing when I saw that the filament started to melt in the tube.
2. For the problem of the nozzle that came out outside the printing area (an axle was blocked), I oiled the wheels of the axles and the problem is solved.

It would be nice to be able to program the fan to turn on, but it will be for another time.

Thanks again for your help @scndctr.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2018 12:33AM by Romona.

The blockage is 100% caused by the cold side of the heatbreak getting too hot. There should be no reason you don't run the cooling fan on the heatsink when ever the heater is on, so don't wait the 15mins before turning it on

Having baked the hotend at 270*C without a heatsink fan for some time now, I would hazard a guess the heatbreak is ruined. Grab a titanium one off aliexpress for about $6 to fix your issue.