Kossel Delta xxl build project HELP

Hi blt3dp.
Can you please tale a look over my Slicer settings and let me know what should I change to have a good starting point.
Thank you.
I can't wait to start a print with the new settings

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2020 10:36AM by alex773.

Everything looks good to me except I would make a couple of changes on the Extruder Tab.

The nozzle diameter, is 0.5 your actual nozzle diameter? If it's not, I would match it up with your actual nozzle diameter.

Then for the extrusion width, it's generally not smaller unless you wish to under extrude. A value of nozzle diameter * 1.2 is usually what you want to set there.
0.4 nozzle = 0.48
0.5 nozzle = 0.6

I would bump up your retraction speed to 2400 and turn off coasting.

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Thank you. The nozzle is 0.5. I changed from 0.4 to 0.6 .On the extrusion multiplier should I changed from 1 to 0 ?

You'll leave the multiplier at 1.

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Hi blt3dp. I did the changes in Duet and Slicer. This are the results .

I also bought the Hatchbox Pla what you use for Tiki statue. Please take a look at the orange prints and let me know what do you think.
Thank you

That still looks like over extrusion. You’re using a volcano with a 0.5 mm nozzle? How fast and how hot? What layer height are you printing at? Could you attach the Goode for that cube?

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This is the G-code for the cube.
I'm using the e3d hot end with 0.5 mm nozzle, Nozzle X
Print speed is 70 , temp is 200 C , layer height is 0.2 .
The retraction distance is set to 1.
Thank you

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2020 01:01PM by alex773.

It looks like it's drawing the outer perimeter thicker than everything else, is there a setting somewhere you might turn off for that?

I might suggest trying a difference slicer also.

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Thank you. I don't know any setting for it. I'm still learning how to use S3d. I don't know what to do

From where did you buy the Hemera ? I'm thinking to replace the Nimble with Hemera. I don't like to have a Bowden extruder, but if the quality is much better than is worth it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/16/2020 10:41AM by alex773.

I’d look at your slicer settings first. If you load your gcode onto [gccode.ws] and make sure to check the box to visualize extrusion width. Tweak whichever slicer settings to get them all the same width.

Look on the Advanced Tab, maybe in the Thin Wall section.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/16/2020 11:42AM by blt3dp.

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I changed the settings what you suggested and I start having better prints but not even close to the way it should be. I still have the blobs and they're at the beginning of the new layer. I can't figure out if is the printer or the software.

I'm pretty sure it's software.
Change these settings also.



Specifically the Relative Extrusion Distances, standard config.g for RRF uses relative extrusion distances. If that option doesn't match up in simplify, I would think you' have issues.

Edit: on the G-Code tab, the Flip Table Y Axis is concerning for other reasons. You might want to make sure it moves right.

When facing the printer, you will have 2 towers up front.
The tower on the left would be the X motor, the one on the right would be the Y motor
The tower in the back would be the Z motor

When you home the printer, the nozzle should be in the center which would be X0,Y0
If you move X negative, it should move to the left. Positive, it should go to the right
If you move Y negative, it should move towards you. Positive, it should move towards the back.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2020 10:41AM by blt3dp.

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Thank you. I'm going to change these settings and report back

I did change all settings you recommended. I also checked the movements of the nozzle . The movements are exactly like your description. These prints are the best I have got from the printer. However, I'm so disappointed about the print quality of this printer. I'm ready to burn /throw the printer and buy a Prusa or something similar, at least I have more quality parts. A friend of mine has a Artillery 3d printer ( $ 450 ) and the finish of his parts is very good.
I know is my fault , but I don't know how to make it work. I printed a 0.5mm thin-wall open cube and the walls measurements are between 0.58 to 0.6. Please see the attachments.

You should be getting better prints out of the machine than that. Something's got to be loose. I'd say double check everything.

The frame
Motors attachment to the frame
Pulleys on the motors
Linear rails attachment to the frame
Smart effector adapters on the bearing blocks
Ball studs to the smart effector adapters
Carriages to the bearing blocks
Ball studs on the smart effector

Make sure the hotend (or any parts of it) aren't loose. I'd also clean off and re-lube the Zesty Nimble.
Make sure it doesn't take an excessive amount of force to pull filament off the spool.
Make sure the wire bundle to the effector isn't pulling on it.

Make sure the coupling for the Nimble's flex cable is tight.
I suppose it could be the flex cable for the Nimble tweaking the effector.
You could try installing the gimbal for the Nimble to see if it helps.

In worst case, you could print another to test with minimal expense (just a drive gear and fasteners)

I'd say run a print and watch it. Watch it from the nozzle and just trace back observing things all the way back to the frame from that.

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Thank you Darrel for your reply. Last week I removed the bed and I checked everything under the build plate. I also checked the crimping on all cables. Now I can do the auto calibration with the bed on 60C and hotend on 130C with no problem. How tight the belts should be ? I will check everything you said.

They should be tight, we technically should be measuring the deflection when pushed on and tensioning them way. But, we just tighten them and strum them like a guitar string, till they make a medium-deep sound. It's more important that they're not loose, and as close to the same.

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I checked everything you said, I also re-lube the Nimble, the linear rails, ball studs, carriages. I also checked every single bolt and nut on the printer. This is the first print. Where did you have the Nimble motor installed ? I have it on the Z tower at about 45 cm from the top of the bottom corner. The filament is very easy to pull.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2020 10:56AM by alex773.

This is how I have the Nimble set up and the spool holder.

The Nimble looks to be in a good place. The way I'd make sure is to move the carriage as close to the Z tower as possible, move the nozzle up to the maximum height you can print at. Then take a look at the cable for the Nimble. The bend should no less than 100 mm across when measured. You would also want to make sure that when you move it as far from the z tower as you can go as well as to the first layer height that the Nimble cable isn't pulling on the effector.

That benchy is almost looking like a temperature/cooling thing, or retraction.

For the temperature, I I would gauge it based off of the room temperature of your bed. If the temperature of your bed at room temperature seems reasonably close to what the actual room temperature is, then that should be ok. I would gauge the accuracy of my hotend temperature off of it. At room temperature, they should be relatively close.

It might be a good idea to do pid tune of both of them again.

I know you're using Simplify 3D. I would suggest at least temporarily switching to something like PrusaSlicer because it allows you to use firmware retraction. Then you could enable that and just tweak retraction during the print. It makes it so much easier to tune.

Looking at your cooling, is the bottom of the fan shroud not parallel with bottom of the heater block? Those shrouds are designed to blow air at the point where the filament comes out of the nozzle. If it's tilted, the air is going elsewhere. When mine was like that, it was actually hanging down below the nozzle. I'm surprised yours isn't.

The combination of fan duct and bracket I have here puts the bottom of the duct parallel with the bottom of the heater block and directs the air where it needs to go. May be try this bracket.

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/cdaad6da8b99bae2a9d9dd0e/w/2dbd663c0fc4ada4dfde92d3/e/b34943a652b5bf6442edf0ee

Edit: Also, are your linear rails centered on the towers? I know trusting them to auto align using the t-nuts didn't really work for me. I had to measure and adjust them fairly meticulously.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2020 02:22PM by blt3dp.

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Thank you Darrel. I do have your circular fan duct and circular fan duct bracket since I finished building the printer. I took the silicone sock to show you how low the fan duct goes. Do you think is to low ?

Oh, it is parallel. Must have been the perspective on the other pictures, it should be good then. The cooling fan is coming on when printing benchy then?

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The cooling fan It is set up in slicer to turn on starting with second layer. I have the bed to 60C when I'm printing. The bottom of the fan shroud it is lower than the bottom of the heater block.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2020 03:12PM by alex773.

This is how the bend looks in the positions you asked to measure. Is that ok how I measured the Nimble cable bend ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2020 03:28PM by alex773.

That looks good to me.

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At room temperature, the hotend is at 24.9C and the bed is 25.1C . Do you think I should do the Pid on both of them again ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2020 04:07PM by alex773.

It probably wouldn't hurt.

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This is the last print . It looks much better but it still not a good print.