Kossel Delta xxl build project HELP

It shouldn't matter as long as they're next to each other and the same on both ends. Now if it were something like black, blue, green, red you would need to make a change. But you're ok.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 07:39PM by blt3dp.

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I plugged the cable like you said and when it was not extruding it was making a noise and a big vibration. Then I changed the red with blue and now the noise is like a whistle but no vibration. No gears are moving inside, just the noise. I don't remember to have any noise from the Extruder motor of the Nimble when it was not extruding.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 08:51PM by alex773.

Ah crap, i forgot on the hemera side it's one of those 6 pin connectors but there's a couple of empty ones and they're in weird places. You might have to use a multimeter. Regardless of how they're connected on the motor end, when you multimeter it out, on the other end pins 2 pins should say they're connected to each other. They go next to each other in the connector. The other 2 take up the other spots.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 08:58PM by blt3dp.

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This is what I have on the Hemera side.

Yeah, I'm actually using the one from the Titan i had since it was already nicely cable tied. The one that I have that came with the Hemera is the same. Looking at the data sheet, on the end that plugs into the Duet you will want is red,blue,green,black. Which i'm pretty sure is how I have mine setup.

https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/GdYIUZMlaEoWbQhU/Hemera-Datasheet-%28Edition-2%29.pdf

Make sure you have the current set to around 1100 in M906 in your config.g
Of course don't try to extrude unless it's hot.

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 09:16PM by blt3dp.

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I did multimeter it out and I have red and blue , first 2 pins and green and black the other 2 pins connected to each other.This is what I have in Config.g for M906:

M906 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E500.00 I35 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
Should I change E500 to E1100 and try again ?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 10:30PM by alex773.

This is how I connected the cable to the Duet. It is not vibrating anymore but I still have that whistle noise.
This is my M906 now :
M906 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E1100.00 I35 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2020 11:11PM by alex773.

Swapping the red and blue wires over will reverse the direction of movement of the motor. That's all.

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Thank you David. My concern is that buzzing/whistle sound from the motor when is not extruding.

I'm about to turn on the printer and start using the Hemera. What Retraction Length you are using ?

That’s the M207 command I posted earlier.

I use 3.5mm @ 40mm/sec

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Thank you. Hopefully I finish today and print something tonight. I'm so curious about Hemera.

This is the Thin Wall test cube- 0.4mm sliced with Prusa Slicer. The wall thickness is 0.5. please see the attached pictures.

Looks like it's starving for filament on layer starts. In PrusaSlicer, on the Printer Settings Tab under Extruder 1, I have the option "Retract on layer change" unchecked.

I also on the Printer Settings Tab under General, I have it setup like this.



And lastly, I have that M207 command in my config.g

I like Firmware Retraction because you can adjust it on the fly just by sending the M207 again.

I would say print a cube, but stretch it taller and tweak the retraction until the start of the lines are good.

I'm also concerned about the wavy corner on that one shot. Is that corner facing a particular tower?

Edit: Or is that wavy corner the one with the starved starts?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/20/2020 07:20PM by blt3dp.

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I did all the modification you suggested in Prusa and the cube 0.4mm it's looking good now. The walls are still 0.5mm thick. I do have the M207 command in my config.g

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/20/2020 07:54PM by alex773.

This is the test stretched taller to 30mm. The walls thickness is still 0.5mm

In order to use the retraction on the fly from 3.5 to 4.2 I have to send M207 S4.2 F2400 Z0.00 ? I never used the M207 command. Thank you

Yep, that’s what you’d send.

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My Bowden tube is 660mm and I use 4.6 retraction and I'm getting a horrible stringing. I will try retraction on the fly and hopefully I can adjust it.

Maybe temperature or movement speed. Does it move pretty quickly between points where it retracts and begins again.

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I start a print with 205c first layer then I drop the temperature to 195, 190c. The speed I think is 40mm

My Hemera is doing a click when is retracting. I checked the gears alignment and everything is good. I released the tensioner all the way then I tight it up again and I still have that click. I don't know if is normal to do that.

... a single "click" could be mechanical play on one of the wheels ... could even be the stepper rotor, what's rocking with direction changes between two positions ...

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Thank you Viktor. I will open up the gear box and check for any play and report back

I'm wondering if it's too much as in when it retract it's pulling hot filament into the cold section and cooling it causing a temporary jam. Maybe the clicking is the gear teeth riding over the imprints it already had made.

Is there filament powder on the gears when you took it apart?

I'd also be curious if it's skipping steps on the retract because it's too much for it. On the side of the Hemera there's an exposed section of the gear, watch it when it retracts. It should jump back really quickly when it does the retract. Watch it and see if it jumps forward at all when it should be retracting.

I bet it's too much retraction, there are all kinds of recommendations out there on how much per whatever measurement of the bowden tube. It's all very inexact. People used to do massive retractions because of the perceived play in the bowden setup. Our setups with the Capricorn tubes, Hemera, and e3D Hotends are fairly well constrained. I'm betting you don't need 4.6mm.

You might try lowering the retraction distance and/or speed. It's the F parameter in your M207. Try dropping it a little at a time, I wouldn't drop it below 1800 though.

I've found it's somewhat trial and error to find the point where you're using retraction to prevent stringing as well as finding the quickest movement speed possible to also prevent stringing. There's no sense in retracting whatever amount if the printer moves slowly enough that it is still able to ooze out of the hotend before it can reach where it needs to extrude next.

I wonder if maybe it's your acceleration,

Here's the drives section of my config.g,

; Drives
M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E409.00                       ; set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z600.00 E3600.00                     ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X7200.00 Y7200.00 Z7200.00 E7200.00                  ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E7200.00                  ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1700 Y1700 Z1700 E1100 I30                          ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                                   ; Set idle timeout

My maximum speeds for everything are 120 mm/sec, in PrusaSlicer, I have the movement speed set to 90 mm/sec
You can see the max instantaneous speed change (jerk) and acceleration for my extruder are way higher than everything else.
Maybe ensure those aren't crazy high.

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Here's the drives section of my config.g,

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E409 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z600.00 E3600.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X7200.00 Y7200.00 Z7200.00 E7200.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E7200.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1700.00 Y1700.00 Z1700.00 E1100.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

The F parameter in M207 is 2400. I will change it to F2300.
There is no filament powder on the gears.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/21/2020 01:00PM by alex773.

Yeah, it should be just like mine. I'd try out different speeds and distance combinations of M207

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This are my speeds PrusaSlicer

I don't see anything there so different than mine. Except the travel speed, I have it set lower at 90 mm/sec. The Max Print Speed I left at default 80 mm/sec

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I will change this 2 speeds and print something to see