Mission building a delta Kossel

Hello everyone!!
I am a 16 year old student who are unable to by a 3D printer so i decided to make one based on reprap kossel.
I am studying in a boarding school so replying to your messages may be a little late.
My project is a delta printer based on Johann's design.(170 mm heatbed)


Project details
-2020 extrusion
-nema 17 motor for all system
-drv8825 stepper driver
-micro switch endstops
-ramps 1.4 shielding
-arduino mega 2560
-bolts n nuts
-Proximitiy sensor (FSR is too expensive ) for leveling
-Heatsink for motor
-J-head hotend
-Prometheus system for dual extrusion
-heated bed
-reprap screen interface
-v slot wheel and printed OpenBuilds carriage(can't afford linear rails)
-srew on delta arms
-12 V 5A power supply
--And the list goes on..

I know nothing about delta printers(only refering to youtube ) and how to program it
I found codes in Johann's Github Repository but i don't the hell is that.
I know it's going to be a rough ride but i will do my best to make it possible.
I had ordered some of the parts according to Johann's BOM.
Please guide me to it.Sorry in advance if my replies are late (I'm in a boarding school so it is hard to find extra time to contribute to my project.
Please include any pictures for any proposal.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2020 09:46PM by heavy9.

pardon my mistakes.
I'm still new in reprap forum

Did you look through these links? [reprap.org]
You might have to use the wayback machine for some.

Miss that.
So sorry

I'll check it throughly

What firmware does Kossel use?
Is it regular Marlin or the code in GitHub?

Just about any firmware supports a delta but if you want to use Marlin there are example configs for Kossel [github.com]

Thanks thehankinator !
Really helps me to do better.

how can I flash the code into the RAMPS board?
It is not in .ino format
Any help?

Quote
heavy9
how can I flash the code into the RAMPS board?
It is not in .ino format
Any help?

You need to flash the entire project onto the Ramps board, you cannot flash with a single file.

Also, I suggest using VScode, there's a detailed explanation on the Marlin website:
[marlinfw.org]
[marlinfw.org]

---

http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

So I need to install PlatformIO to do this,right?
I'll try building the hardware first.I'll inform when I have done this.

Thank you very much for the help BTW!!

You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Quote
thehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.

---

http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

I agree it's the future but in my experience programming an Arduino or other AVR chip it's much easier to set up. It's still supported by Marlin so it still has its uses IMO

Quote
Ohmarinus

Quote
thehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.

I disagree. For the beginner using a RAMPS setup, get the Arduino IDE and use the Marlin 1.1.9 code. It requires no complex IDE cooperation and works just fine. There are example machine configs with the older Marlin code that show exactly how to do your Delta configuration and a TON of existing web sites that are very useful and use the Marlin 1.xx code base as the examples. There is plenty of time to do bleeding edge after you have mastered the basics with the legacy Marlin 1.xx code base.

Heavy9, your power supply is not good enough if you are going to use a 12v heated bed. You will want at least a 250 Watt supply to give yourself a little margin.
Also, the Prometheus system is a very expensive multi-filament extruder system. If you want dual extrusion that is supported by all of the slicers that takes two filaments in and extrudes through a single nozzle, then look at a Cyclops or Cyclops clone. Not very expensive and it is supported in all the firmware and slicers. And simpler to set up and mount as well.

Finally, if you cannot afford a kit, you will not be able to afford making one piece-meal. It is also nearly impossible for a newcomer to "bootstrap" themselves into a printer from nothing without a kit. All the parts can be gotten together for under $200 this way. Starting with a cheap kit, you can print new parts and upgrade for the cost of some plastic.
Ask the "what cheap kit is best for a newcomer?" on the list and you will get good suggestions.

DLC

---

Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Quote
dlc60

Quote
Ohmarinus

Quote
thehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.

I disagree. For the beginner using a RAMPS setup, get the Arduino IDE and use the Marlin 1.1.9 code. It requires no complex IDE cooperation and works just fine. There are example machine configs with the older Marlin code that show exactly how to do your Delta configuration and a TON of existing web sites that are very useful and use the Marlin 1.xx code base as the examples. There is plenty of time to do bleeding edge after you have mastered the basics with the legacy Marlin 1.xx code base.

Heavy9, your power supply is not good enough if you are going to use a 12v heated bed. You will want at least a 250 Watt supply to give yourself a little margin.
Also, the Prometheus system is a very expensive multi-filament extruder system. If you want dual extrusion that is supported by all of the slicers that takes two filaments in and extrudes through a single nozzle, then look at a Cyclops or Cyclops clone. Not very expensive and it is supported in all the firmware and slicers. And simpler to set up and mount as well.

Finally, if you cannot afford a kit, you will not be able to afford making one piece-meal. It is also nearly impossible for a newcomer to "bootstrap" themselves into a printer from nothing without a kit. All the parts can be gotten together for under $200 this way. Starting with a cheap kit, you can print new parts and upgrade for the cost of some plastic.
Ask the "what cheap kit is best for a newcomer?" on the list and you will get good suggestions.

DLC

So I need to buy a new power supply then?
Can anyone suggest the amount of Volt and Amps required?

What I meant by Prometheus System is two NEMA 17 motor as extruder and I use a Y-joiner.The filament go trough a single nozzle.

I'll try to get the Marlin 1.1.9 for my printer.

Thanks for the help dlc60!!!

12v 5a is fine for running the motion system but for hotend and heated bed you definitely need more juice.

You could go ahead and just test the stepper motors and motion system with hotend and heated bed turned off.

I run a pen plotter with three stepper drivers and LCD on a 2a 12v psu.

---

http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

Depends on your parts. You shuold check their specification.

Each 3dPrinter stepper typically takes 1-2 A (the exact value is typically settable on the stepper driver).
Hotends typically take about 1 A (check your specific part).
12V heatbeds typically take about 9 A (check your specific part).

So you should look for a power source in the range of 18 and more amperes at 12 volts (i.e. at least 220 W power source).

So 12V power supply is suitable but for the Amps I need to step it up right?.

What amount of Amps required?

As hercek mentioned it depends on your parts. If you don't want to do the work to figure it out yourself, just buy a 12v 25a (300watts) supply. By my guess it might be 50-75 watts over what you may need but you would only know that by doing the math.

Quote
heavy9

Quote
dlc60

Quote
Ohmarinus

Quote
thehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.

I disagree. For the beginner using a RAMPS setup, get the Arduino IDE and use the Marlin 1.1.9 code. It requires no complex IDE cooperation and works just fine. There are example machine configs with the older Marlin code that show exactly how to do your Delta configuration and a TON of existing web sites that are very useful and use the Marlin 1.xx code base as the examples. There is plenty of time to do bleeding edge after you have mastered the basics with the legacy Marlin 1.xx code base.

Heavy9, your power supply is not good enough if you are going to use a 12v heated bed. You will want at least a 250 Watt supply to give yourself a little margin.
Also, the Prometheus system is a very expensive multi-filament extruder system. If you want dual extrusion that is supported by all of the slicers that takes two filaments in and extrudes through a single nozzle, then look at a Cyclops or Cyclops clone. Not very expensive and it is supported in all the firmware and slicers. And simpler to set up and mount as well.

Finally, if you cannot afford a kit, you will not be able to afford making one piece-meal. It is also nearly impossible for a newcomer to "bootstrap" themselves into a printer from nothing without a kit. All the parts can be gotten together for under $200 this way. Starting with a cheap kit, you can print new parts and upgrade for the cost of some plastic.
Ask the "what cheap kit is best for a newcomer?" on the list and you will get good suggestions.

DLC

So I need to buy a new power supply then?
Can anyone suggest the amount of Volt and Amps required?

What I meant by Prometheus System is two NEMA 17 motor as extruder and I use a Y-joiner.The filament go trough a single nozzle.

I'll try to get the Marlin 1.1.9 for my printer.

Thanks for the help dlc60!!!

Slow down Hos! Walk before you run.

How much frustration are you willing to deal with at the beginning? The Prometheus setup is a tricky tune. I still recommend a Cyclops or Cyclops clone to do that.
To use dual filament setups you will need to print some stuff yourself. To print stuff yourself, you need a working printer, to have a working printer, you will need a kit.
Unless you are going to use an outside print company to make your parts that is.

When you buy a power supply, it will be spec'd by voltage and power. A 12V supply, 250Watt is the minimum I would suggest to give you a working margin.

You sound like you have already bought stuff - What parts do you have now?

DLC

The dual Prometheus system can be installed as a single filament system to begin with. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Prometheus system as mine has run flawlessly for four or five years.

Quote
etfrench
The dual Prometheus system can be installed as a single filament system to begin with. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Prometheus system as mine has run flawlessly for four or five years.

The OP said he was cost sensitive. Prometheus is not a cost sensitive purchase. I have been using a Cyclops for years flawlessly too, for quite a bit less. However, you need to load both filaments into a Cyclops, even if you are only printing with one, or bad things will happen. Funny, no one warned me about that...

DLC

---

Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Quote
dlc60

Quote
heavy9

Quote
dlc60

Quote
Ohmarinus

Quote
thehankinator
You will need PlatformIO unless you are using an Arduino. Instructions for using the Arduino IDE are here [marlinfw.org]

Arduino IDE is not going to be very useful nowadays. PlatformIO is superior in every aspect.

I disagree. For the beginner using a RAMPS setup, get the Arduino IDE and use the Marlin 1.1.9 code. It requires no complex IDE cooperation and works just fine. There are example machine configs with the older Marlin code that show exactly how to do your Delta configuration and a TON of existing web sites that are very useful and use the Marlin 1.xx code base as the examples. There is plenty of time to do bleeding edge after you have mastered the basics with the legacy Marlin 1.xx code base.

Heavy9, your power supply is not good enough if you are going to use a 12v heated bed. You will want at least a 250 Watt supply to give yourself a little margin.
Also, the Prometheus system is a very expensive multi-filament extruder system. If you want dual extrusion that is supported by all of the slicers that takes two filaments in and extrudes through a single nozzle, then look at a Cyclops or Cyclops clone. Not very expensive and it is supported in all the firmware and slicers. And simpler to set up and mount as well.

Finally, if you cannot afford a kit, you will not be able to afford making one piece-meal. It is also nearly impossible for a newcomer to "bootstrap" themselves into a printer from nothing without a kit. All the parts can be gotten together for under $200 this way. Starting with a cheap kit, you can print new parts and upgrade for the cost of some plastic.
Ask the "what cheap kit is best for a newcomer?" on the list and you will get good suggestions.

DLC

So I need to buy a new power supply then?
Can anyone suggest the amount of Volt and Amps required?

What I meant by Prometheus System is two NEMA 17 motor as extruder and I use a Y-joiner.The filament go trough a single nozzle.

I'll try to get the Marlin 1.1.9 for my printer.

Thanks for the help dlc60!!!

Slow down Hos! Walk before you run.

How much frustration are you willing to deal with at the beginning? The Prometheus setup is a tricky tune. I still recommend a Cyclops or Cyclops clone to do that.
To use dual filament setups you will need to print some stuff yourself. To print stuff yourself, you need a working printer, to have a working printer, you will need a kit.
Unless you are going to use an outside print company to make your parts that is.

When you buy a power supply, it will be spec'd by voltage and power. A 12V supply, 250Watt is the minimum I would suggest to give you a working margin.

You sound like you have already bought stuff - What parts do you have now?

DLC

I bought a 12V 5A power supply as mentioned in Johann's reprap page.
The rest are on the first top post.

If you have a heated bed, that 5A supply will not be enough. Heated beds draw 9+ amps, I have one that draws 12Amps. If you are powering the hot end at the same time that could add another 3 Amps. And, you want margin (more capacity than you need) to handle surge currents. Power (Watts) = Volts X Amps. In general, you want a 50% margin. So, if worse case here we have 15 Amps at 12V that is 12x15=180 Watts, add 50% more to that and you get 270W. A 250 Watt supply will work, a 300 Watt supply is better. These supplies are typically used for LED lighting, so they don't regulate all that well, if your current draw is near their maximum, then you get a "sag" where the voltage will drop. If it drops too far then you can run into problems with PID tuning because the heaters won't heat as fast as they should. That is why you want "margin".

DLC

---

Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Already ordered the 300W PSU with 25A
Still waiting.....

When I'm doing the frame, I got an m3 screw with a wrong length.I miscalculated and pushed it in hoping it would grip the T-nut
Now it's stuck inside the printed corner
Have anyone got any idea for me to take it out ?

It's very frustrating

Quote
heavy9
It's very frustrating

With a very light touch.
try to "cant" the screw a bit diagonal so that the threads catch in the plastic and oh so lightly back it out without pushing inward.
It is a finicky thing to do. We've all done that at least once.
Sometimes you can get a needle-nose pliers in there to grip the screw and pull.
Lastly, see if you can slide something down the groove to rattle the screw back out.

DLC

---

Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.