Rostock Max V2 with Tricklaser Arms, Calibration Woes
Posted by AeroPrinter805
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Rostock Max V2 with Tricklaser Arms, Calibration Woes January 12, 2021 01:18AM |
I've been a lurker here for a few years now, never even made an account until recently. I've had a Rostock Max V2 for a handful of years now, and no matter how hard I've tried, I cannot get a good first layer.
I started with just spending hours trying to make sure my build was accurate.
Then I went to Duet to try to take advantage of auto calibration using FSRs. FSRs required a stiff effector, so I upgraded my arms to Tricklasers (they are shorter than normal so I get less radius build volume). Upgrading to Rostock V3 ball joint/effector end made sure I had accurate distance between arms (on the same tower), and that everything was parallel. I've only ever been able to get the calibration down to around .15, and even with that, my nozzle is all over the place on the outer areas of the bed. I've noticed some slight differences between distance on the towers at the base, and at the top, around .4mm difference. That is the only build inaccuracy I could ever find with my setup. I've gone through so many different guides on calibrating a delta, and I never seem to be able to work out all the bugs.
So I've just stuck to printing smaller prints in the center and calling it good.
Recently, I've decided to give it another try finding what the issue was, and have run into the same wall. 1st layer issues, and also, I've been finding that my circles are no longer round. Belts are tensioned fairly equally ( I think), no backlash in the belts, the head is rigid. I don't really know where to start. I saw someone say that the chased an issue around until they started twisting their motor wires and ferrite choking each motor, which seemed to fix the issue. I've been contemplating doing this, but I want to come up with a plan of attack for a few things if I do.
Here is a recent print that I did, notice the odd underextrusion on certain parts of the infill, and the oval shaped circles.
Has anyone grown frustrated with the geometry of Rostocks? With the inaccuracy in the melamine? I do wonder if that gap that I've measured at the top of the towers is creep over the years, or if it was always there? Has anyone swapped the components from a rostock into a Kossel?
I know there's a lot of info here, I just wanted to get it all out and see if anyone has experienced issues similar to mine, and if they figured out what it was (or if they gave up and got a Corexy or cartesian instead).
Appreciate any help!!! Thanks!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2021 01:21AM by AeroPrinter805.
I started with just spending hours trying to make sure my build was accurate.
Then I went to Duet to try to take advantage of auto calibration using FSRs. FSRs required a stiff effector, so I upgraded my arms to Tricklasers (they are shorter than normal so I get less radius build volume). Upgrading to Rostock V3 ball joint/effector end made sure I had accurate distance between arms (on the same tower), and that everything was parallel. I've only ever been able to get the calibration down to around .15, and even with that, my nozzle is all over the place on the outer areas of the bed. I've noticed some slight differences between distance on the towers at the base, and at the top, around .4mm difference. That is the only build inaccuracy I could ever find with my setup. I've gone through so many different guides on calibrating a delta, and I never seem to be able to work out all the bugs.
So I've just stuck to printing smaller prints in the center and calling it good.
Recently, I've decided to give it another try finding what the issue was, and have run into the same wall. 1st layer issues, and also, I've been finding that my circles are no longer round. Belts are tensioned fairly equally ( I think), no backlash in the belts, the head is rigid. I don't really know where to start. I saw someone say that the chased an issue around until they started twisting their motor wires and ferrite choking each motor, which seemed to fix the issue. I've been contemplating doing this, but I want to come up with a plan of attack for a few things if I do.
Here is a recent print that I did, notice the odd underextrusion on certain parts of the infill, and the oval shaped circles.
Has anyone grown frustrated with the geometry of Rostocks? With the inaccuracy in the melamine? I do wonder if that gap that I've measured at the top of the towers is creep over the years, or if it was always there? Has anyone swapped the components from a rostock into a Kossel?
I know there's a lot of info here, I just wanted to get it all out and see if anyone has experienced issues similar to mine, and if they figured out what it was (or if they gave up and got a Corexy or cartesian instead).
Appreciate any help!!! Thanks!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2021 01:21AM by AeroPrinter805.
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