plans & parts list for a delta printer

Hi. I am looking to build a delta printer but want to avoid kits. Anyone have any plans for a 2020 based delta printer.

Thanks

Try Here or Here

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Have you browsed the wiki Delta category ? https://reprap.org/wiki/Delta

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2021 02:18AM by DeuxVis.

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Most of my technical comments should be correct, but is THIS one ?
Anyway, as a rule of thumb, always double check what people write.

The updated version of the second link that Robert posted is [miscsolutions.wordpress.com].

Be warned, delta printers that print accurately need to be built precisely, so they are not cheap to build. However, a good CoreXY build probably costs more.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
The updated version of the second link that Robert posted is [miscsolutions.wordpress.com].

Be warned, delta printers that print accurately need to be built precisely, so they are not cheap to build. However, a good CoreXY build probably costs more.

From a while i've been looking to your build as an example for a well desgin delta, the only thing that keeps me from moving forward for a build is the fact of a alu bed. You have machine your 330mm 5mm alu bed. I wouldnt risk that job by myself, creating the holes and "countersunk" the holes.

Is there any reseller in EU that sell a good bed with 330mm diameter or something similiar? I'm also consider use some standard bed from any kit like anycubic predator bed [370×370×455mm]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2021 06:51AM by masterviana.

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masterviana
From a while i've been looking to your build as an example for a well desgin delta, the only thing that keeps me from moving forward for a build is the fact of a alu bed. You have machine your 330mm 5mm alu bed. I wouldnt risk that job by myself, creating the holes and "countersunk" the holes.

It's not difficult to drill and countersink three holes in aluminium. I didn't have a drill press at that time so I used a handheld electric drill, a 3mm twist drill bit, and a countersink bit intended for metal.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2021 04:15PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42

Quote
masterviana
From a while i've been looking to your build as an example for a well desgin delta, the only thing that keeps me from moving forward for a build is the fact of a alu bed. You have machine your 330mm 5mm alu bed. I wouldnt risk that job by myself, creating the holes and "countersunk" the holes.

It's not difficult to drill and countersink three holes in aluminium. I didn't have a drill press at that time so I used a handheld electric drill, a 3mm twist drill bit, and a countersink bit intended for metal.

The 3mm holes I think i can deal glue a paper printed whit the holes, the countersink its a bit more harder for me never done that job before. The "countersink" deep its only based on your expirence there is no way to mesure the deep. which countersink bit you've used? Even if dont countersink the holes the print area of the bed its only 300mm and the bed had 330mm, that gives 30mm of margin, if use a 300mm glass i can use the screws without countersink them.??

Actually, a counterbore would be better than a countersink. Countersinks are for flathead screws which have tapered bottoms. These force the mating pieces to be in a specific position with no lateral movement allowed. Counterbores are for socket head screws. Since these are flat on the bottom a small amount of lateral movement is allowed. The bed is expanding when heated and contracting when cooling, so it needs to move.

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masterviana
The 3mm holes I think i can deal glue a paper printed whit the holes, the countersink its a bit more harder for me never done that job before. The "countersink" deep its only based on your expirence there is no way to mesure the deep. which countersink bit you've used? Even if dont countersink the holes the print area of the bed its only 300mm and the bed had 330mm, that gives 30mm of margin, if use a 300mm glass i can use the screws without countersink them.??

The point about the glass being larger than the print area is that the clips used to hold the glass in place don't reduce the print area.

I used a standard fluted countersunk bit. At intervals I tested the depth of the countersink, and stopped when the screw head was no longer producing above the aluminium surface.

Another possibility is to use a hexagonal aluminium plate with a round glass bed on top, then the screws could be in the corners of the hexagon and not need to be countersunk.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2021 02:04AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42

Quote
masterviana
The 3mm holes I think i can deal glue a paper printed whit the holes, the countersink its a bit more harder for me never done that job before. The "countersink" deep its only based on your expirence there is no way to mesure the deep. which countersink bit you've used? Even if dont countersink the holes the print area of the bed its only 300mm and the bed had 330mm, that gives 30mm of margin, if use a 300mm glass i can use the screws without countersink them.??

The point about the glass being larger than the print area is that the clips used to hold the glass in place don't reduce the print area.

I used a standard fluted countersunk bit. At intervals I tested the depth of the countersink, and stopped when the screw head was no longer producing above the aluminium surface.

Another possibility is to use a hexagonal aluminium plate with a round glass bed on top, then the screws could be in the corners of the hexagon and not need to be countersunk.

I've tested on my actual kossel and it run well,I feel confident to move forward now



I've a couple of question in your boom you have the 3xvertical profiles, 3x horizontal profiles and 2x 2060 + 2x2020. This last profiles im expeting 3 or 6 2020 for the top. Why do you have 4? What the different over v-slot and l-type of motedis? beside the abillity to runing well on it.

For the idle pullys you have used the smooth 20t gt2 that came with the kit of robodigg? Or its better to use a thoot 20t/16t?

I'll try made my own rods using a 12x5mm 52n magnet working on 10mm steel balls.

I have 3x2020 extrusions at the top, and 2x2020 plus 2x2060 at the bottom.

I don't think it matters what extrusion profile you use. V-slot is better for rollers, but my design doesn't use rollers. The Motesis I-profile uses a different type of slot nut, which I prefer to the usual sort.

I used toothed idlers because I don't think running toothed belts over small plain idlers is good.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I would avoid countersunk holes or any rigid connection between the platen and the frame of the printer.

I would use either flexes or kinematic mounts to accommodate the expansion of the platen when heated. A rigidly fixed platen can only bow in reaction to the expansion when heated much as a frying pan bows when heated.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2021 02:57PM by Ecky.

Thanks for all of the input guys.

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Ecky, 3d printing newb
Canada, J6? ???

I've been working in a boom to start my build, and a couple of question had been raising in a process of designing a delta.

I've been used a couple of calculatores to helpme choose the bed and the print area overall like this for example :

[docs.google.com]

Everytime i input the values from dc42 horizontal beams 390mm it gave a values max of 280mm circular printing area. These is really importante to me since ill use a smaller bed then 330mm. And my doubt is if for example i want a 280mm print area how long should i cut the horizontal profiles? There is a simple rule for rods its 80% of vertical profile. But for bed its a bit more tricky?

Other topic that i want to put on table is the alignment of 2040 beam, i read that using 2040 beam "radial aligned" upon the towers isnt bring the full benefics of using a 2040 beam. To prevent twsit force and so one, between top and bottom triangle. And that seems logical to me. The better solution is align the 2040 with the motor, like this example. Wolfstock kossel [wolfmanjm.github.io]. This design catch my attention on first view but then i realize that I need to use some kind of vwhell motion on top of the 4020 extrusion. I dont tink its possible to mount any kind of linear rails with that setting. Plus the fact there isnt any alu kit sending this, so i need to print the corners myself

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2021 08:37PM by masterviana.