Welcome! Log In Create A New Profile

Advanced

Delta Printer building

Posted by Gaou 
Delta Printer building
April 11, 2021 09:23AM
hi guys,

been away from 3bprinting for a while i got the change of building a delta printer, thing that i always wanted. But i am new to this design so i would need guidance and advises.

This is where i am at the moment .

.

The reason i choose to make a new effector was the easy of supplies... I already had the ball M4 screws and the fiber rods from robotdigg, so it would only need some tapping and magnets from local supplier.

What i didn't think is that the strong magnets wouldn't be very helpful on the parallel move of the effector. So i have to try some more on that .

I am waiting for a 10" Keenovo mains power heater and i will order the e3d v6 hotend with titan extruder and some more things...

Also i would like to ask how critical is the proper placement of the rails and how do u measured them to be exactly at the center of the profile. Something else i noticed was a small gap on the some horizontal extrusions to the corner. We are talking something about .1mm to .2mm ( i didn't have something to measure it at that time)

This time i would like to use a thermocouple on my hotend but i dont know what kind of thermocouple and board do i have to choose to match my old 0.85 Duet. So if anyone knows please point it out.

Thanks in advance guys . Please Feel free to criticize ..


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Re: Delta Printer building
April 12, 2021 02:22AM
See [duet3d.dozuki.com] for how to connect a thermocouple to a Duet. However, unless you want to print at very high temperatures, I recommend using a PT100, PT1000 or thermistor instead.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2021 02:23AM by dc42.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: Delta Printer building
April 12, 2021 04:39AM
Quote
dc42
See [duet3d.dozuki.com] for how to connect a thermocouple to a Duet. However, unless you want to print at very high temperatures, I recommend using a PT100, PT1000 or thermistor instead.

The PT100 & PT1000 dont need a board ; do they plug as they are on my board?


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Re: Delta Printer building
April 13, 2021 02:24AM
PT100 needs a board, see [duet3d.dozuki.com]. PT1000 doesn't.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2021 02:26AM by dc42.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
VDX
Re: Delta Printer building
April 13, 2021 02:55AM
... or a 12Bit (16Bit/24Bit) ADC-input smoking smiley


Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
Re: Delta Printer building
April 13, 2021 11:39AM
Quote
dc42
See [duet3d.dozuki.com] guys. I ll order a PT1000. Thanks bith if u


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Re: Delta Printer building
May 09, 2021 05:09AM
Guys i have made some progress on my build, just to realize how many errors and mistakes i ve done...

I got myself some extruded plastic and now i am in the process of counting errors and finding a solutions. My biggest one turn out to be the rods length, that made my printing height short enough. The cheapest solution to this it to replace the vertical structure with taller ones to get at least 250mm more.

There is also another thing which is the weight of my moving parts . The steppers cant hold the moving parts still and they keep falling. This is not a problem as long as the printers is off, but when i doing a reset on the duet that few milliseconds that the steppers lose their holding torque they are getting some mm down. this is annoying trying to figure a way out cause i think it will disable the printing from continuing after a power shutdown.



I am also looking for a way to replace my ball with smaller thread ( M3) so i would be able to attach the duet smart effector. If you guys have any thoughts on any of these i would be very happy to hear..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2021 05:13AM by Gaou.


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
rq3
Re: Delta Printer building
May 09, 2021 04:04PM
Some time ago one of the arms on my delta broke. I got tired of waiting for a replacement from China, so I made my own.
The balls are 1/2" diameter 440C stainless steel bearing balls. I got a box of stainless steel 3mmx0.5 flat head machine screws, 10 mm long. I threaded the screws into an aluminum hex standoff to protect the threads of the screws, and chucked it in a lathe. Then I plunged a 1/2" diameter round end mill into the screw head, making a pocket that exactly matched the balls. I abrasive blasted a tiny spot on each ball to help adhesion, and glued the screw head to the ball using JB-Weld epoxy.

The carbon fiber arms are 0.472 inches OD, and 0.390 inches ID. I used commonly available 3/8 inch diameter countersunk disc magnets as the "mate" for the balls. Each disc magnet has a 3/8 inch long by 3/8 inch diameter cylindrical magnet under it to increase the field strength. The magnet stacks were also gently abrasive blasted on the OD for adhesion, and glued into the ends of the carbon fiber tubes with standard industrial epoxy (Loctite EA9460) into which I mixed a small quantity of 4 mil diameter glass beads to keep the magnets centered in the tubes so as to prevent corrosion between the magnets and the carbon fiber.

You wouldn't think that a screw glued to a ball would be very strong, but I have had some pretty devastating effector crashes and have yet to have one fail. I tested a ball to destruction with a hammer, and the screw broke before the JB-Weld failed. JB-Weld is a steel filled high temperature epoxy, and nothing else will work.

Originally I had Teflon discs with adhesive backing in the magnet pockets, but tossed those long ago. About twice a year I pop the arms off the balls, clean everything, and fill the countersink in the magnet with Teflon loaded grease. I can see no apparent wear on either the magnets or the balls after many thousands of prints.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2021 04:56PM by rq3.
Attachments:
open | download - Mag_Ball.JPG (415.3 KB)
open | download - PREDATOR MAG BALL ARM PARTS LIST.doc (22.5 KB)
Re: Delta Printer building
May 11, 2021 03:41PM
Quote
rq3
About twice a year I pop the arms off the balls, clean everything, and fill the countersink in the magnet with Teflon loaded grease.

so you are saying you are metal on metal, like mine ? you ve done great work with the rods for sure. i dont have the tools or the mechanical knowledge and experience to do what you did.

i got myself a print today and it seems that i have a problem with stepping or the duet calibration as i got the X and Y 35mm (what they should be) but the Z come out 43mm (instead of 35mm..)....

So first things firsts i got to solve this first....


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Attachments:
open | download - zproblem.jpg (341 KB)
rq3
Re: Delta Printer building
May 11, 2021 10:24PM
Quote
Gaou
Quote
rq3
About twice a year I pop the arms off the balls, clean everything, and fill the countersink in the magnet with Teflon loaded grease.

so you are saying you are metal on metal, like mine ? you ve done great work with the rods for sure. i dont have the tools or the mechanical knowledge and experience to do what you did.

i got myself a print today and it seems that i have a problem with stepping or the duet calibration as i got the X and Y 35mm (what they should be) but the Z come out 43mm (instead of 35mm..)....

So first things firsts i got to solve this first....

Well, they're metal on grease on metal. There's a differencesmiling smiley
Re: Delta Printer building
May 16, 2021 02:49AM
Guys i need some help. My nozzle is higher on the edges of the bed than it is on the center. Is it an effector thing or is it something else on delta printers that i am not aware of ? is it possible wrong settings on the configuration file causing this ?

i do have an ir differential probe but since the tilt is big i dont know how helpfull would be to install.


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
rq3
Re: Delta Printer building
May 16, 2021 07:12AM
If the nozzle is tracing a path that is "bowl" shaped, or "dome" shaped, then the rod radius is likely incorrect. A web search on delta calibration should get you more information.
Re: Delta Printer building
May 16, 2021 02:30PM
I think what you may want is this [escher3d.com]

I think there may be some other similar programs as well but this is the one I have used. Each of them look for errors in many parameters such as Delta arm length, Delta radius etc...

Mike
Re: Delta Printer building
May 19, 2021 11:43AM
thanks guys both of you ..!

i can take a perfect square as long as it is smalll ( 30mm) . from that point my nozlle is far away of the bed so there must be something wrong...! one thing i ve notice is that my carriage rod distance is smaller than my efector's one . i also understood that the more the length between the rods the less tilt i am getting on the effector.

i have seen this from David but i thought it needed an ir probe or a smart effector ( which by the way i have laying around) . i just realize that i can do this with some simple fillers...! thanks a lot guys...!


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Re: Delta Printer building
May 20, 2021 04:12PM
Quote
Gaou
Guys i need some help. My nozzle is higher on the edges of the bed than it is on the center. Is it an effector thing or is it something else on delta printers that i am not aware of ? is it possible wrong settings on the configuration file causing this ?

i do have an ir differential probe but since the tilt is big i dont know how helpfull would be to install.

The problem you describe is relatively easy to fix.
The bowl or arch as the nozzle is moved across the center of the bed is a factor of the length of the carriage rods. As long as you are certain that the rod radius is entered correctly, then it is only a matter of adjusting the rod length in the firmware/eeprom to flatten the travel.

My method of bed level and calibration is to level the bed with 3 points, one near each of the 3 towers. I then check the nozzle height at the center of the bed. If it is high then shorten the rod length until the center position gives the same clearance as at the outer 3 points. If it is low then lengthen the rod length the same way.

I never use the auto bed leveling, and once everything is calibrated for flat travel the only routine checks needed are the 3 point level checks. My printer has a 280 mm dia bed and the travel is flat all the way across. I use a 0.2mm first layer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2021 04:15PM by wildone.
Re: Delta Printer building
May 22, 2021 07:51AM
Quote
wildone
The problem you describe is relatively easy to fix.....

thnaks a lot for the tip mate. i disassemble the rods the rails and the effector for changing them to smart effector with haydn rods.

i ll keep ur infos for the next without smart effector build . you ve made it sound pretty easy .

Quote
wildone
I use a 0.2mm first layer.

thats pretty impressive


RePrapPro Mendel 3
Duet 0.8.5 firmware 1.19
Re: Delta Printer building
May 31, 2021 03:40PM
zdfdas
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

Click here to login