Couple of issues.

Running Gen7 v1.5 with teacup, Gen7 Endstop 1.3.1, Pololu DRV8825 drivers, and 400 step motors(Sparkfun).
Got everything hooked up and running (i think) well.
Heatbed/hotend/communications work great.
Ok, using pronterface to send commands using its UI(not up to snuff on g-codes quite yet, although I got some down pat).

Anyways, first issue is when I send a command to move any motor, the motor that gets the command moves, but the other motors start making a hissing sound(a little bit of power?).
Is this hissing/power sound normal?
Also, sometimes when I send commands, the motor goes crazy after it finishes the command. Like if I send a movement to Z to go up, it goes up, but when it stops, a second goes by then it goes what seems to be full step/power mode and cranks out a few more revolutions and stops again.

Extruder seems to be running in reverse(Greg's).
Is there something in config I missed?

Endstops not working(?)
I can see the individual endstops sending 1 in pronterface when I manually move whatever to trip the endstop and sending m119.
But when I send a command to the motor to see if it will stop at the endstop, it will railroad the endstop and keep going till it stops.

Any help, many thanks.

Check the logic on your endstops, I'm using Marlin firmware, and the default for that inverts the logic of the endstops (so when it's untripped, it sees it as being tripped). I had a similar problem until I switched that around, then it worked. I'm using a mechanical endstop though, with pullups on the lines and the untripped endstop holding the line low (hitting the switch allows the line to go high). Hitting the endstop should report the event in the console window of pronterface

The hissing is normal (I think) as with mine, it'll do that until it powers the motors off - I'm pretty sure it's motors anyway, they're not cooking, but if you hit the "motors off" button in pronterface, the sound stops. I think the drivers are "holding" the motors, so it's drawing current the whole time, I think it may be ripple from the power supply making the noise or some other phenomenon I've yet to understand.

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Is this hissing/power sound normal?

Yes, this is normal. As soon as anything is moved, all motors get current, else they could loose position easily.

And it's disappointing. Pololu drivers have everything but motor current fixed, so you get such sounds when your steppers don't match what the Pololu engineers consider to be a "standard" stepper. The G3D driver might be better with its second trimpot, didn't test it myself, yet.

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But when I send a command to the motor to see if it will stop at the endstop, it will railroad the endstop and keep going till it stops.

Teacup checks endstops during G28 (homing) moves, only. Doing so during G0/G1 moves would bring a performance hit. If you want to make sure the carriage never exceeds the build room, you can define software endstops (MIN_X, MAX_X, etc.) in config.h.

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

Re E going the wrong way just change the e direction in your config eg [github.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2013 04:46AM by Dust.

Thanks guys for all the help, all solutions worked!
Now I have new problem: ABS not sticking to Mk3 ALU heatbed as per his instructions.
Should I put some kapton tape with glass on it then?
Or just put kapton straight onto the heatbed/some other method?

I'm printing ABS to a Kapton tape covered heatbed - it won't adhere unless temps are above 105c (I run it at 110c) - so I'd add kapton and double check your temps

Yea, this bed can't get to 110(Mk3 ALU)
It can make it to around 95, but not much higher.
Also he says you can "print directly to the board without glass"

It's capable of doing 24v's for the higher temps, think I will try and build a 24v supply for it and see how that goes.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2013 03:58AM by MeMadMax.

I etched my own heatbed (60W! I can hit 110 degrees in around 10 minutes in a 5 degree ambient - although I've got a smaller bed than most) using FR4 copper clad and I'm using the back of that covered in kapton (no glass). A friend of mine has a 250 silicone heater pad with a alu bed and glass plate on top (no kapton) both these scenarios work

DOH!
I guess that's what I get for being lazy lol =D

Well, at some point, when I reach build my own pcb level I'll build my own board, that sounds like fun and simple actually lol.

Update:
Machine is running very good now. Printed out test cube last night.

Seems the problem was teacup couldn't handle my 400 step motors + 1/32 drivers.

Replaced with marlin, everything running good now.

^.^