UV curing resin for doming

Hi all

This is my first post. I have a good chemistry background but need a little help with my first project.

I am developing a UV curing resin used for doming.

I’m looking at this recipe at the minute and tuning it to be perfect final polymer.

Recipe is as follows -

(12%) Aliphatic urethane diacrylate (not sure on the which one but maybe 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl-propan-1-one or 1-hydroxy-cyclohexyl-phenyl-ketone)

(27%) Tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate triacrylate

(19%) Pentaerythritol tetraacrylate

(23%) 1.6 hexanediol

(14%) Tetrahrdrofurfuryl acrylate

(4%) Darocur 1173

(1%) Irgacure 184


I have picked this one because it’s non-yellowing and looks to be hard but flexible, with low shrinkage. With the combination of initiators modifying the surface tension. My only concern is that with a dome been several mm thick how long it will take to cure? Will this be solved by adding more initiator? Or would different ones be better?


Basically cost is one the most important factors. Is this a good recipe? Where is the best place to buy these materials? Is there any better formulations?

Many thanks

Dave

An impressing list of chemicals!

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

Yeah, quite complex formulation. Did you formulate this on your own or are you basing it on a standard formula from literature?

One question: why do you use a complete Urethane system along an acrylic?
The Urtehane Acrylates have the Urethane structure embedded in their molecule, no need for further raction with polyol and isocyanate, right?

As for flexibility and tougness without yellowing, you are right to use Urethane Acrylates. But you do have phenolic groups in there which tend to be the cause of yellowing. Better use completely alyphatic Uretane Acrylates and avoid Phenols altogether.

Also, be sure to chose the most weather and water resistant compounds if you will be using this on the outside.
Another things to add to it is an UV filter, like Hydrochinone. Not adding this in a structure that will be recieveing sunlight on a daily basis means that your window will degrade quite fast.

From the top of my head

The formular is based is something I found on my literatre search. Just trying to get my head around the Urtehane Acrylates chemistry. If I stick an initator into Aliphatic urethane diacrylate would it form my polymer or does it need the other parts too? I thought the other parts helped to keep the final product hard yet flexible hence why I picked this.

I have a urethane resin which we currently use but its a 2 part mix that needs around 12hours to cure. Hence why I'm trying to find a UV curing solution.

It really does depend on what Urethane Acrylate you are using.
Some have the polyol and isocyanate synthesised into the molecular structure.

Did you check out this page? They offer a clear UV curing Urethane for doming purposes.
[www.deco-coat.com]

Problem is thats a US based company. Need to get it in the UK? Plus these tend to be quite expensive, our current resin is around £12 per Kg. Hoping to get something around that price.

Is there any Urethane Acrylate you could recommend for this purpose?

Sorry to sound so thick, little bit outside my area of experise. I have a master in analytical chemistry. Have some polyer experience but not much so this project is alittle bit of a pain.

Heh, I know where you are coming from!

I am an Organic Chemist but originally with no specailization in Polymer Chemistry. Had to learn a wide array of Polymer specific subjects on the way.

You should look into Aliphatic Urethane Acrylates over at the usual suspects (depending on what quantities you need), Sigma Aldritch, Eternal, Sartomer, Polymer Technologies (these are in the UK and are excellent providers, I hear!) I think Kromachem is their ditributor.

I am not an expert in this line of products though, I'm more into Acrylics

Guys, sorry Im newbie for this one. But I have project school to make rubber resin stamp Uv curing type. Would you all to give recipe for that. My Great Thanks. For helps.

I just get this for project :
1. Irgacure 651 as photoinisiator

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2013 10:59AM by Dent.

Hi ..

I also think this is the best way for the future of RepRap 3D printers.
Just think resins that harden with Ultra violet light or blue light, may be
worked better from powder particles, it will be easier to develop a print nozzle
more efficient way compared to today as it is cured. Think about it.
The grain size may be of varying sizes as may be applicable to each type.
If you have more information about this type of resin, please get back to me so that I can also
apply the use of it on my first 3D printer, called Big Brother Spectrum. Congratulations.

Saulo Quevedo.

Inovastar Technologies.

Hello

I was giving a general look at this forum and I think it helps. I have no expertise in chemistry, but it looks very interesting. I have the following idea and if someone from the forum can help me with this reasoning, it will be good. It is as follows:
Using a good UV resin or for use with blue light, very reactive immediate application of a compound of powdered ABS, nylon or PLA, and this compound was mixed with this same resin (10%) and this is my primary material for 3D printing, which can bind to industrial plastics mixing some other alloying element that best apply, uniting these plastic resins. The assembly of the 3D part can be made in two or more stages, such as:
Phase 1: Nozzle Light ultravioleta_Azul will sensitize the resin, very reactive and software program can be programmed to only make the application nozzle traverse the paths outside of each fillet piece 3D printing creating a retaining wall on each side the fillet in the way of 3D part that is being processed at the moment.
Phase 2: The same application nozzle will sensitize Plastics ABS, PLA or Nylon in these two containment walls that make up the fillet printing part 3d, with the output beam of light may also be controlled and modified as are the plastic to be used at that moment. The advantage of a 3D printing system two-phase system as described above is that the cost will be much lower as we will use the very reactive UV resin in the minimum amount, only 10% and the final cost is almost equal to the price of commercial industrial plastics . For each layer of printing, all printing nozzle is being used exclusively for mounting the retaining walls of the 3D part of bead for a particular time of application and only after the end of this first phase is that it can begin the second phase will melt the plastic industry between these two retaining walls of the 3D part of the fillet. This way it will give enough time for the retaining walls can be completely cured and firm to receive the plastic material that is applied in the second phase. I think it is a good idea. Think about it. Hopefully contacts.

Saulo Quevedo.

InovaStar