Dying PLA/ABS/Nylon

Hi all,

I've recently been looking into colouring my prints - I saw this blog where the guy dyed his nylon filament before putting it through the printer (Nylon Dye) but I was wondering if this is possible with ABS or PLA?

Also, is it possible to do it while it is in liquid form? For example if I created a custom way to inject dye into the PLA as it was all liquid-y goo-ey coming out of the hot end.

Has anyone tried dying/inking PLA/ABS?

Thanks for your time

Poncho

I have read that Rit dyes work on ABS, I bought some but never had time to try it. Not sure about PLA.

The problem with injecting into the molten plastic is the enormous pressure at the hot end. You would need to inject it with slightly more pressure and it would be hard to control the ratio as the speed changes and during retract / restart.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Also the die might boil and produce steam if it contains solvents with a boiling point less than the hot end temp.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Ah yes of course.

I'll keep thinking on it and I'll look into those Rit dyes thanks.

I'll report back if I find anything out!

Also, if you use ABS, a friend of mine said this works fairly well: [www.thingiverse.com]. The color isn't very dark and it doesn't really work for PLA, but it's pretty simple and you probably have everything you need already.

Hello

I was giving a general look at this forum and I think it helps. I have no expertise in chemistry, but it looks very interesting. I have the following idea and if someone from the forum can help me with this reasoning, it will be good. It is as follows:
Using a good UV resin or for use with blue light, very reactive immediate application of a compound of powdered ABS, nylon or PLA, and this compound was mixed with this same resin (10%) and this is my primary material for 3D printing, which can bind to industrial plastics mixing some other alloying element that best apply, uniting these plastic resins.
The assembly of the 3D part can be made in two or more stages, such as:
Phase 1: Nozzle Light ultravioleta_Azul will sensitize the resin, very reactive and software program can be programmed to only make the application nozzle traverse the paths outside of each fillet piece 3D printing creating a retaining wall on each side the fillet in the way of 3D part that is being processed at the moment.
Phase 2: The same application nozzle will sensitize Plastics ABS, PLA or Nylon in these two containment walls that make up the fillet printing part 3d, with the output beam of light may also be controlled and modified as are the plastic to be used at that moment. The advantage of a 3D printing system two-phase system as described above is that the cost will be much lower as we will use the very reactive UV resin in the minimum amount, only 10% and the final cost is almost equal to the price of commercial industrial plastics . For each layer of printing, all printing nozzle is being used exclusively for mounting the retaining walls of the 3D part of bead for a particular time of application and only after the end of this first phase is that it can begin the second phase will melt the plastic industry between these two retaining walls of the 3D part of the fillet. This way it will give enough time for the retaining walls can be completely cured and firm to receive the plastic material that is applied in the second phase. I think it is a good idea. Think about it. Hopefully contacts.

Saul Quevedo.

InovaStar