Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 16, 2015 08:43AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 16, 2015 08:59AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 17, 2015 05:11AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 17, 2015 08:40AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 17, 2015 08:49AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 17, 2015 08:51AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 22, 2015 08:59PM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 24, 2015 01:02AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 24, 2015 08:27AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass November 28, 2015 08:12PM |
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toxuin
I hear you, dentist. I am still struggling finding it though, and that's not because I am dumb or am ignoring your advice. Apparently, situation is a bit different over the border: the listings that you've provided do not ship to Canada, my "local" "dealer" is located 4 hours of driving away and wants me to pay 250 for a scrap he has and 350 if he cuts it for me, Canadian ebay starts the prices with 250$ tag without shipping included. Shipping from most of the companies located in US requires some sad stuff like brokerage, GST, VAT, WTF and whatnot. Price is getting prohibitive pretty quickly.
Funniest thing ever: I wanted to print over PIR foam as someone advised to avoid that situation with tooling plate alltogether, but guess what? There are no suppliers of PIR foam around me in 250 km radius. Man, that's just depressing. I know, I know, I shouldn't have build a printer this big in the first place.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 25, 2015 03:57PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 245 |
You answer why yourself a fem posts farther down. Not many people knows about that type of plate, and neither did you.Quote
the_digital_dentist
I don't get it. Everyone knows you need a flat surface to print reliably, yet so many keep buying thin, flexible aluminum and then put glass on top of it. Why do people keep buying the thin, flexible aluminum? It makes no sense. Why not just get a flat aluminum plate such as cast tooling plate in the first place and be done with it? Unlike galss, aluminum is thermally conductive so the temperature will be even across the surface and you won't have print adhesion problems. Surely the cost of a thin flexible aluminum plate, plus glass to fit, and the goop you're going to have to slather on to get prints to stick can't be much less than the cost of a piece of cast tooling plate. We're talking about a few dollars/euros here, not hundreds. Are the few dollars/euros you save worth all the screwing around to find a magic formula to try to get your prints to stick?
Since you're developing the printer yourself, I advise you to try out a 3 point leveling system. When you level the print bed you're adjusting it so that it lies in the XY plane defined by the printer's guide rails. It takes only three points to define a plane. The typical 4 corner "leveling" system bends the bed plate and the undercarriage. You can't level a bent plate, neither can autoleveling. With enough screwing around you may get the center of the bed flat/level enough to print on but you aren't likely to be able to use the entire bed. The further you get from the center the worse it will get. Auto leveling assumes that the bed is a plane so its not necessarily going to help.
Here's a 250 mm diameter ABS print on my 317 x 305 x 6.35 mm cast tooling plate bed supported by a three point leveling system:
I have never seen anything of similar size done on a thin piece of aluminum with a glass plate and a 4 point leveling system.
What's the point of building a machine with a 200 x 400 mm bed if you can't print on the entire surface? The thin aluminum/glass/4 corner leveling is done in cheapo (and some not so cheap) printers because it is a couple dollars/euros cheaper than doing it the right way, or the "designers" don't know any better. The whole point of developing your own printer is to do something better than you can get elsewhere. If you're just going to copy their mistakes, just get one of those cheapo kits and save yourself a lot of trouble sourcing the parts.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 25, 2015 04:51PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
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dintid
Also: I can't find any such things in Europe.
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dintid
That and I like to have several plates, so borosilicate glass is much better suited. Many people like having the option to replace plates.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 25, 2015 10:32PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 5,780 |
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dintid
Also: I can't find any such things in Europe.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 26, 2015 06:39AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 245 |
It might be the case, but I have tried searching by the 3 different terms you list here without any hits at all.Quote
the_digital_dentist
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dintid
Also: I can't find any such things in Europe.
Cast tooling plate is a raw material for any and every machine shop on the planet. I'm certain there are at least a few thousand machine shops scattered around Europe. If you can't find cast tooling plate it may be because it's called something else, but it's there and it's available.
Thanks.Quote
dc42
See EcoCast here [www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk].
I have some plain glass as well.. I do like to being able to dump the glass into the freezer though, which isn't a good idea with plain glass from 100cQuote
dc42
So do I. But I use an aluminium heat spreader between the heater and the glass, so that I can use ordinary float glass instead of borosilicate.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 26, 2015 08:14AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 26, 2015 10:15AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 245 |
It's ok. I might have misinterpreted your meaning/intentions. Can easily happen on forums, and English is not my primary language - I just sort of read it like: anyone not using tooling plate is dumb.Quote
the_digital_dentist
I wasn't trying to be derogatory, just pointing out that the stuff has to be available. I don't know any plainer terms than to call it what it is, at least in English. The plate is cast (not rolled or extruded), then milled flat. That's as simple as anyone can make it.
If you can't find tooling plate, try finding a machinist and asking about it. Go to any town with a manufacturing plant of some sort, and go to one of the bars that are located right across the street from the factory just after a shift has ended. Machinists are frequently big guys who like to drink beer, and have very dirty hands. Once you have found a machinist, ask them about where they get their jig plate, tooling plate, or whatever they call it locally. If you find the right guy, they may even take an interest in what you're doing and you might be able to get them to help you do it (though it may cost you a few glasses of beer).
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 26, 2015 12:28PM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass December 26, 2015 01:03PM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass January 07, 2016 06:57AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass January 07, 2016 07:02AM |
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MechaBits
I'm sold on the cast alu plate, but it is tricky here in the UK, ebay are skewing results for sure, maybe they dont want us to have the manufacturing good stuff here in the UK, for fear of what we'll make with it.
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass January 07, 2016 07:49AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass January 07, 2016 08:28AM |
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Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass January 07, 2016 09:35AM |
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