My first modified and printed extruder for 1.75 mm filament

This part weights 128 grams he width is 33 mm So you can mount two of them om one X carrier, mirror the extruder.
I will use 50 gram round NEMA 14 7Nm/cm stepper
Hot end needs to be fitted yet
I shortened the hobbit bolt grind a slot in it to fit a E ring on the right side
On the left side I used drill press to tap number 1 M8 completely thru,and number 3 only 2 or 3 turns,
so that it is easy to mount it on the hobbit bolt.
Putting the hobbit bolt in needs so much force that I don't even have to use super glue to fix it.
I had to put the hobbit bolt in a bench vise and use both hands to screw the gear in place. so no nema
14 stepper will ever move the gear in relation to the hobbit bolt





Next up is the X carrier.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2016 05:10PM by amigob.

Here how it is going to look in dual configuration

very nice looking. You may also need a way to adjust the height of the hotend, so that you can get them on the same plane.

For now I can only think of adding a pusher to the X carrier that can push the holding plate up by turning a M3 bolt.
Any other simple/good ideas are always welcome.

I've been working on something similar, except mine looks a lot clunkier than yours I have nema14s on order, but for now it will have to use 17s. The hot ends have smooth upper throats that are held in clamps that are accessible through the lower part of the extruders. That should make it easy to level the nozzles by resting them both on the glass bed and then tightening the clamps.

The wade extruder is doing such a good job here, that I don't want to change much.

The complete width will be 64mm ( I what to keep the 200x200 mm freedom) expected weight will be ~500 to 600gr, that is almost the same as the single that I now use.:-) stepper motors now is 390gr
I think I can still reduce the weight of a single extruder by 20 to 30 gr. so I will probable go below 500gr. that was my goal. That is the complete extruder + hotend + stepper.
I am looking at putting the gears on the outside, the nozzles get so close to each other that the original heat sink coolers wont fit. but I can design a single 40mm fan cooler for both heat sinks.
Again a small gain.

Moving he stepper motors close and above X carrier has also weight distribution advantages , the carrier will flex less with high accelerations.
I need to machine the stepper gear btw. and I need to dril a hole in between the teeth for the securing bold, else it won't work.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2016 06:34PM by amigob.

Small update

With some small testing I found out that.
- The stepper motor a cooler needs even with 400mA
- you need low(?) acceleration of the extruder
- I got 3.5 kg pull power until cleaning filament breaks :-)
- stepper motor beeps ( standing still 50% of the time ) in combination with raps128 ( I don't know why )
- hot end mount does not work that well, it is not easy to mount the hot end strait,
- I insert PTFE in to Extruder, that is very difficult with this mount.



movie of the beep sound Movie

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2016 05:18PM by amigob.

First try, after calibration

Mhhh have a problem that I can't recognize



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2016 06:10PM by amigob.

Me neither. Are the marks extra stuff sticking out, or missing stuff sticking in? Same all sides? At least the extruder is printing, that's always a nice moment

i looked at it with a magnifying glass an the problem areas are sticking out. So I think it is over extruding. I will reduce by 5% tonight . The 7Nm is more then enough, but it is getting real warm, even with cooling fan on it need to see what I am going to do there, adding cooling sink is not really worth it, because fir 40 grams more I can mount the 12Nm ..

Could you switch off the extruder when not used?
Or reduce current to keep it cooler?

I'd put the gears to the outside like JamesK's approach and keep the nozzles as close as possible to each other. Then use one 40-50mm heatsink fan for both like you mentioned. I did that on my dual Bowden extruder and it worked really well.
Also use one fan above both steppers, this way air passes by all front/end covers of the steppers instead of only the rear.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2016 06:12AM by o_lampe.

Found the problem from small bumps, I switched random seam :-) Not any more :-)

Switching off the extruder that doesn't work I don't know , I couldn't really find anything in the Gcodes for that
One fan for both would work probable, maybe with some air guide's.
Gears in side or outside still is a question for me, but a talk with the shop that delivers the E3D's made that decision easier.
He told me to day that only the metal parts are genuine E3D the rest not ( had a doa fan ) So the rest of the parts is cheap
Chinees stuff. I don't really want to risk a break down of the fan will it is printing. It could destroy a lot of things when that happens.

here is the cooler idea

I realized when I made this movie that I have to put the cooler wrong
is should be vertical, it is now horizontal. It will bump in to the frame now
But this one will fit om the second extruder

Cooler for extruder stepper

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2016 07:39PM by amigob.

The extrude does a good job, also on high speeds I had to reduce the retrract speed, it was set to 20mm/s,
It sometimes didn't make it.

This is extruded with one have of the dual wade's

and this is how it looks if you put two on

cables are a problem but I am already working on a solution for that

Looking really good! That is very compact. My cables are a nightmare, I'll have to figure that out once the design has settled down a bit. Still waiting on the nema 14s to see if they will do the job. In the meantime I've been playing with some GT2 pulleys to see if I can do something a bit more compact than the herringbone gears.

Thanks

I really think now that the small ( 7Ncm) round one is not strong engough.
So now and then I here the extruder slipping back,

missing steps ?

look from 1:40 ( it happens at 1:48 )

That can be two things
- there is something strange in the Gcode
- or the pressure in the nozzle becomes so big that the extruder is pushed back loosing steps.

The gears that I use can become slimmer, these are way to strong. but the ABS on was already a lot lighter then the PETG gear.

Looks and sounds like the stepper motor missing steps - just being overwhelmed by the required torque. You're extruding pretty fast there though, that's impressive for such a tiny motor. What's the gear ratio?

Yes, abs is great for light parts, the low density really works in our favour - and you get more of it for your money I must admit, I really like the way abs prints, especially the great bridging. I just really need to get an enclosure done to get the de-lamination under control.

Where it is Missing steps it is not extruding fast, is it doing a perimeter and PETG

faster

What I think is that the printed object is getting to close and blocks the nozzle so that the pressure becomes to high.
So it is not that bad I think, I don't see this in the result of the printing.

By the way everything I have printed now in ABS is without enclosure in a room where it is 20c
Yesterday I saw the first really small signs of warping, I printed without a brim, didn't wait until the bed was above 100c to start printing.
I never saw de-lamentation, I had in the begin bad layer adhesion ( used 230c for hot end ) but no de-lamenation. So I increased temperature
to 245 and sins then I have no problem en very strong parts.

Printing the fan cover ( very thin walls 1mm vertical walls ) goose not that well I need to change the print speed there to very slow , because Slic3r
doesn't see it as small perimeters. Parts are still usable but need some TLC after print is finished..

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2016 05:20AM by amigob.

I think my dual extruder set-up is way too heavy to ever go that fast. I suspect the printer would shake the table to bits

Yes, I agree that the problems with abs are sometimes overstated. The warping/delamination problems do show up from time to time depending on print shape, but for the most part you can get good prints by printing hotter and slower. I finished my first roll of abs recently and I'm currently having to find the right settings for the new roll. It is remarkably different!

yesterday I printed the cold end cooler with 50% flow ( by accident )

A layers and perimeters are there but not connected :-)

So today a new try

and when cooler is finished I can start using the second extruder. I got the filament already in :-)

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Ah, there's nothing like new filament to play with

Nice looking fan shroud.

First print with second extruder
The black extruder is printing yellow and the yellow extruder is printing black :-)
Don't have to change anything to the Z.

Now first a rough calibration of the nozzle X/y position.
I want to print 2 squares ( 2 colors ) on top of each other, and the top one 4 mm smaller
So that I can measure the offset with the caliper, correct the difference. And then use
JamesK calibration pattern.

Is there some where a description on how to draw two color objects with DesignSpark Mechanical
and export a STL with the two colors .

Oh the esun ABS filament seems to work vey, more on that when I printed more then only a square block of 2 x 2 x 2 cm :-)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2016 04:11AM by amigob.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Looking great. Your bed surface looks really nice - what is that?
My nema14s arrived yesterday, can't wait to see if they have enough torque to use the same gears as I currently have on the 17s.

I've been exporting the models as two stls, one for each extruder and then combining them in the slicer. It looks like we ought to be able to produce a single amf file that contains both parts but I haven't figured that out yet.

Borosilicate glass sprayed black on the back on the back, then a 1.5 mm thin plate aluminum and then the heater.
I glued ( epoxy ) 3 PLA blocks to the glass plate.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Quote
amigob
Borosilicate glass sprayed black on the back on the back, then a 1.5 mm thin plate aluminum and then the heater.
I glued ( epoxy ) 3 PLA blocks to the glass plate.

That explains the lack of clips for an unobstructed top surface - brilliant!

There is a draw back, you can't remove it, I am thinking about that one.
I had my doubts if the PLA would hold, because it is directly beside the heater and aluminum plate.



But I don't see any problem, I print better at high speed then a low speed with ABS. As long as the object is big enough :-)

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder