ReprapMJ 3D Printed “Prusa Style” Nylon Capable and Easy to Use 3D Printer with Full 200mm Build Size but Small Footprint. The Basic Printer Has a Hardware/Vitamin Count of One Part (the build plate).

Hi Folks.

I have uploaded a printable 3D printer to Thingiverse called the ReprapMJ (thing:3990953) and created the wiki page ReprapMJ.

ReprapMJ is faithful to the reprap philosophy. It is capable of printing itself and it is almost completely printed.

The Basic Printer Has a total Hardware/Vitamin Count of just one part (the build plate).

It is a “Prusa Style” Nylon Capable and Easy to Use 3D Printer with Full 200mm Build Size but Small Footprint.
Only one nema is used for the Z axis and so the electronic parts are also reduced.

The full parts list for the basic printer is:
1x 220mmx220mmx3mm sheet of glass or phenolic board (phenolic for printing nylon).
4x Nema17 motors with wiring.
3x Mechanical endstop switches with wiring.
1x Motherboard (I use the MKS Gen L).
1x Hotend (I use a J7 which comes complete including a fan, bowden tube and wiring).
1x 150w 12v Power Supply.
Everything else is printed (and I do mean everything else!!).

You can add the usual standard options such as Heated Bed, LCD/SD Card and a nylon capable Extruder:
1x 220x220 Heated bed with wiring (I use the Anycubic Ultrabase).
4x Springs for the above.
1x LCD 2004 with SD Card reader (my favourite screen).
An alternative extruder to replace the fully printed one (essential for using nylon) needs:
1x Brass knurled gear.
1x U604 bearing.
Everything else is printed (and I do mean everything else!!).

So far I am the only person who has printed a ReprapMJ. I have used an Ender3pro, a TronxyX3 and earlier versions of ReprapMJ and they all gave consistent and good results. However, I could really do with some help and more varied builds and feedback.

I will to try to complete the wiki page properly as soon as I have a chance but this is a side project and my main projects keep me pretty busy (also I have Grand kids!!!!).

Many thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2019 12:15PM by mikejeffs.

This is great! I especially like the all-printed extruder.

Have you seen the Snappy printer? It looks like it's no longer being developed, and seems to use a lot more plastic than your design, but you might get some useful ideas from it.

I'd love to build one of these, though I don't have much free time lately. I'll definitely be following this project though!

what are you talking about one part? seems to be lots of parts.

ah you mean bought for the bed, plus the other parts, read it as one printed part for the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2020 04:02PM by MechaBits.

For the extruder, I like the idea of using the springiness of the plastic arm to replace the spring and hinge. I often use that too. On the other hand, to build the machine frame with 3D printed parts may be a nice exercise but not very practical.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

Thanks for the comments folks.

Sorry about the delay but I had stopped looking at this forum as there had been no response.

I have seen the Snappy which had been far and away the most printable printer for quite some time. It follows a different approach to the problem and not much crosses over.

I am a bit confused about the comment about the number of parts. What I meant to say was that if you build the basic version (without lcd etc) you only need 1 piece of hardware and the electronics. Everything else is printed in PLA. so the full parts list for the basic printer is:
Hardware-
1x 220mmx220mmx3mm sheet of glass or phenolic board (phenolic for printing nylon).
Electronics-
4x Nema17 motors with wiring.
3x Mechanical endstop switches with wiring.
1x Motherboard (I use the MKS Gen L).
1x Hotend (I use a J7 which comes complete including a fan, bowden tube and wiring).
1x 150w 12v Power Supply.
Everything else is printed (and I do mean everything else!!).

Using the springiness of PLA has worked very well for me in a number of different designs. PLA creeps (compresses over time when under tension) quite badly so it works best if you take the tension off when not in use.

The 3d printed frame has proven to be surprisingly practical. I first used a similar frame about 7 years ago when I made what I called "a printable prusa". It was very similar but used rods and linear bearings etc. Three of those machines were the only printers I had for a few years and they worked almost constantly for the last 7 years. I have had a fully printed version (RepRapMJ) working for about a year and the frame is no problem. There are limits to how much load you could add to it but if you just want a printer that prints then a printed PLA frame is no problem. If you want to add load and attachments you can scale it up (or out!!).

Having said that the RepRapMJ is not intended to be a production "off the shelf" printer for everybody. It is not intended to be a competitor to commercial printers. It is primarily an excersize in achieving the aim of RepRap and edging us closer to the ultimate goal. It would not be a practical printer for many people and if you do use it then it will certainly fully challenge all of those skills regular 3D printers seem to gather!!

What I do hope is that it will point to different ways that PLA can be used successfully and may be inspire others to continue to chase the goal of RepRap.

I was thinking you made the bed cart in one piece (actually I think my brain saw one piece and then tried to imagine what that one piece would look like) including drive mech & all that you needed, then saw the picture and all the pieces Do you know how many kilo's you used?