Huxley Dual Head Mod August 02, 2014 05:45PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod August 03, 2014 05:30PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod August 04, 2014 01:01AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 208 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod August 04, 2014 01:23PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
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3Dmaker4U
Great job, congrats!
I also had a plan to do that, but I managed to get better support management and, since dual color didn't sound too appealing, I just dropped it.
One question about the "local cooling fan". I cannot see from the picture if you use a "duct" to direct the air or just simply hanged it at an angle, but my question is about it's efficiency. I mean, is the air flow is consistent enough to get the desired impact on the print quality?
All The Best,
Daniel
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod August 04, 2014 05:21PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 208 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod August 05, 2014 04:51PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
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3Dmaker4U
Whenever I have to print with support, I use the 0.9.1b version
The versions after generated an "indestructible" support, while the latest introduced pillars that cannot actually support too much.
I know the model, but is not very efficient. The issue is that small fans, including 40 mm ones, cannot sustain the air flow if it is obstructed.
I currently experiment a bi-lateral arrangement using 30 mm fans blowing directly to the hotend.
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod September 24, 2014 07:55AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod September 24, 2014 02:54PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
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dc42
Your dual head mod for the Huxley looks very similar to the way I converted my Ormerod to dual head. I've documented the process at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. In the process, I discovered a few things:
1. The standby temperature of the non-printing nozzle is very important, to minimise its effect when it passes over the print. For PLA, I use 185C for the printing nozzle (increased to 195C for the first layer), and 150C for the non-printing nozzle.
2. On a tool change, I wait for the new printing nozzle to reach the active temperature, but I don't wait for the old printing nozzle to cool down to standby temperature. This speeds up tool changes.
3. To further minimise the effect that the non-printing nozzle has on the print, it is important that when the non-printing nozzle passes over a point that has already been printed in the current layer, that point has cooled down sufficiently for the plastic to set. Having the nozzles further apart helps to achieve this in most cases. I originally had a nozzle spacing of 14mm, but I increased it to 22mm for better results. For some prints, I slow down the printing for particular parts to allow the plastic enough time to set. Better cooling from a fan should also help.
4. And of course you need to get the nozzles at exactly the same Z height! I do this by adjusting the relative torques of the two mounting screws.
I don't use a purge pillar, it doesn't seem to be necessary. Here are a couple of example prints.
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod September 24, 2014 05:11PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Re: Huxley Dual Head Mod September 27, 2014 12:39PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 13 |
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dc42
Hi Michael,
On my Ormerod (with Duet electronics and firmware), cool down when a tool is deselected is controlled by setting the standby temperature in a G10 command. So slic3r is not involved in it. I've not looked at what commands slic3r generates if you ask it to control standby temperatures. However, I did notice that slic3r generates M109 and M190 commands with an additional T parameter to specify which nozzle it wants to set. The Duet firmware was ignoring that parameter, so I modified the firmware to use it instead of assuming the currently selected nozzle. Perhaps the firmware you are using has a similar problem?
For retraction when changing tools, I am letting slic3r generate the retraction commands. I have this retraction set at the default value of 10mm and I left the extra length on restart at 0. This seems to work well for me so I haven't tried changing these values. I don't have any problem with ooze, I think 150C is low enough to prevent it.
I should point out that it took me quite a while to get the print quality you see in the photos. I went through a lot of traffic cones before I attempted the frog!