E code Question

Hi All,
I have just compleated buildimg my Huxley and i am using Repsnapper to generate the Godes.Repsnapper dose a greate job with simple objects but dose not have any options for building support.I have tride other programes like repG but the problem i have run into is that thies other programs do not use "E" codes for the stepper driver they use m101,m102 and M103 with m108 s 10.0 ect. Is the a way to configure skinforge
to output "E" codes insted of the M codes, or maybe some one has created a script to convert files between the two formats.

Activate the Dimension module.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Thanks nophead :-)

Hi,

I just connected my hot end. It's heating ok. In Redsnapper , the target = 200, but current = 2511. Temp display update = 3 sec.

"Current = 2511" What does this mean?

Thanks

This probably means temperature sensor is not connected.

Is that techzone electronics ?
On that, 2511 is what you get when the hotend control card is not connected to main board (by that pseudo ethernet cable).
If it was only the thermocouple disconnected, you'd get the room temperature.

Hi,

First ... thanks for answering.

After "DeltaFlight" remark, I spent alot of time searching for 2511. 2511 means I have the correct firmware.

From [www.reprap.org]
( Under Further Bench test - 2511 means correct firmware)
"With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager."
But I still don't understand how to get the correct current temp.

I don't think the thermocouple or the hot end is disconnected because

1. Nichrome is heating.
2. Thermocouple - I made sure it's not touching the brass or nichrome.

I also reflashed the firmware today. I also tried two different firmware upload. For one firmware, i got current = 1970 (can't remember, it could 1930 also). For the second firmware I got current = 0.

I also disconnected the thermocouple, but still get current = 2511

Thanks for the support

Look in the communication log in repsnapper for error codes when it reads the temperature (M105). My experience with this electronics is that the MB fails to get the temperature from the EC most of the time due to communication error (timeout). It's only able to get the correct reading once in a while. If you look at the log, you might see the actual temperature showing when there's no error. In my opinion, you would do better to use a thermistor than the thermocouple AD system.

Hi,

Wanted to share something weird.

In This firmware gives me a temp reading, but not correct

I uploaded this firmware. Now my current temp shows 145. I tried to heat the thermocouple with a lighter, the temp went up, but slowly. My heater is disconnected, but when I press Heater ON, the current temp starts rising. It went up to 168 and then stayed there. When I disable heat ON, the current temp went slowly back to 146.

I changed so many firmwares, I don't have the logs of the previous firmware.

Thanks.

PS. I have a Techzone Huxley. (First build)

Check the nichrome and the thermocouple have no shorts with a multimeter (resistance measure). Visual inspection is not enough from my experience (also with techzone huxley).

If the heater nichrome is disconnected but the temp still go up when you press "heat on", it probably means your thermocouple is getting some current from the heating circuit (it can act as a heater itself, only it will die very quick).

I saw that happen with my techzone Huxley too. The thermocouple emitting lots of smoke made was also a nice clue about what was going on


Also, with techzone electronic unmodified you can only use techzone firmware. They modify the firmware to handle their custom temperature control circuit.

Hi DeuxVis,

I dismantled the hot tip. I checked the Thermocouple. Multimeter shows 4.8 ohms. I then connected the thermocouple only. Same problem ... Current Temp = 2511.

The temp was rising with another firmware. The temp does not rise with Techzone firmware.

I have been taking advice on the IRC channel. I haven't 100% implemented their advice, but it seems it might be possible to change the firmware to sprinter. But I have to use Thermistor and connect it to another part of the motherboard.

Sprinter connects at 115200 baud, which I think might be faster. Pronterface seems to better than repsnapper. But I will know only after I get everything working. At present I have a thermocouple only, so I prefer techzone firmware to work.

Thanks

Can you show us pictures of how you connected everything (thermocouple to hot end management board, and from that to mainboard) ?
I just want to make sure we're not forgeting something obvious here.


Again, if it says 2511, it means the tip management board is not communicating with the mainboard.
If it was, you'd get room temperature, even with no thermocouple connected.


This might be a connector problem (RJ45), we've seen some other people having problems with that (see that thread). In that case check with techzone for a replacement of electronics maybe ?

Do you have BOTH sets of wires hooked up properly between the Motherboard and Extruder Controller?

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Bob, he's using techzone monotronics as far I understood. Only one pseudo-ethernet cable there.

I tried another cat5 cable. Same problem. Sent an email to techzone. see reply below:

The 2511 temperature is because it isn't communicating with the tip manager. Try plugging it into the other port on the Monotronics board and see if you get a reading in the bed temperature. If you still don't get a reading then there is either something wrong with the tip manager board or there is something wrong with the cat5 cable connecting it. If you have another straight through cat5 cable handy you can try that. It needs to be a straight through cable not a crossover cable (the wires on one end need to go to the same pins on the other).


I did try another cat5 cable, but not sure if the second cable was a straight or a crossover cable. The second cat5 cable connects my computer to the router. Does anyone know if the cat5 cable connecting computer to internet router is straight or cross over. Everything is pointing to a bad connection.

I get 2511 with the bed heater connection also.

Thanks

If you look closely at the color of the wires of both ends of the ethernet cable together, a straight cable will have the same color order on both ends, while a crossover (the most common type I believe) will have some color swapped from one end to the other.

Color of the wires have to be inspected in that position :