Switching to RAMPS precautions?

I'm going to be "upgrading" to a RAMPS 1.4 board. I've had this RAMPS and Arduino sitting in a box for a couple of years and haven't gotten around to using it. It's a Genuine Arduino (not clone) and RAMPS 1.4 from Ultimachine. https://ultimachine.com/products/ramps-pre-assembled-kit

I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping you guys might help me out with.

I'd like to avoid the Polyfuse burning up issue, and I'd also like the ability to go 24v if I wanted down the line.

Looking at the Polyfuses, they are:
MFR500 - 5A up to 30V
MFR1100 - 11A up to 16V

Guessing I should get something in the 24V or above range that will trip at 11A or so? And one at 5A? Say 32V 5A and 32V 10A?

Along that same line are the capacitors, the 6 big ones are supposedly:
153CLV-0605 though there's no marking on them other than 31 100 VZA
Leads me to believe they're 31V, 100uF

I wouldn't need to replace those right?

And the smaller capacitors are supposedly:
153CLV-0405 again there's no marking other than 2 10 16V
Leads me to believe they're 16V, 10uF

From what I read, those are for the thermistors and fed 5v from the Arduino. I wouldn't need to replace those either right?

Obviously I wouldn't install a Diode in D1, and have to power the Arduino separately.

Lastly are the Mosfets and the Heated Bed Connector, on the Mosfets they say:
P55NF06L I don't know much about Mosfets. Should I worry about these

And the Heated Bed Connector. How can I avoid toasting that connector? Just not use it and solder wires with a better connector to the underside of the board? Or use a relay to switch it and power it directly from the Power Supply?

Here's a picture of my board.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2016 01:36PM by FA-MAS.

31V is not a standard voltage rating for capacitors. If they are Panasonic capacitors, the VZA code means they are rated at 35V, see
[eu.industrial.panasonic.com].

The polyfuses can be replaced by automotive fuses.

The P55NF06L mosfet is OK for the extruder heaters but a poor choice for the bed heater. Best replace it by a better one such as IRLB8743.

I'm tempted to ask what electronics you already have that is so bad that Arduino/RAMPS is an upgrade. At least you've not gone for a cheap Chinese set.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2016 02:30PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

That makes sense, that's why they say 12V-35V output in the documentation.

Say what Automotive Fuses though? Looks like exist 32V 10A and 5A fuses.

I know for sure there are better things than RAMPS I already have it though. I'm definitely getting a Duet WiFi for my new machine. But for this old Prusa i2, RAMPS should do.

I'm currently running a Printrboard Rev C. I can't say it's bad. It's a great board. I used to live 20min away from the Printrbot guys so I thought I'd support local. I think one of the big issues I have with it is that you have to install special board definitions to use it with Arduino IDE. Marlin is requiring a newer Arduino which is fine, but those board support files that worked with the old Arduino don't work with the new. There are files that work with the new Arduino, they require a different bootloader be installed (which I have done) but then found out that the files are only windows.

Oh, and the heated bed connector is toasted.

Also just more expansion really. There are tons of things that can be done with RAMPS (Eg, Bluetooth, LCD, Additional Extruders, Sensors). Some can be done with Printrboard through use of additional board, some not at all. And 24v.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2016 02:46PM by FA-MAS.

Also read that I should remove LED2, LED3, LED4 or replace their resistors to an appropriate value. But it doesn't mention LED1. LED1 looks different, like it's receiving power from the Arduino. Any ideas on that?