Firmware again!

i am glad to see that looks good, i hope some people can ad in some zipped files of working configurations.

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

Yup.

Thanks for doing it up, BodgeIt!

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-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.

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Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!

Ooops .. I did say I was Dyslexic.. Im also gramaticaly chalenged... Midge usualy vets my submisions but she has been busy doing her Art stuff or was possibly alredy in bed when I put my words in the forum into action.

I did type a reply to this thread then didnt post.. as I wasn't certain if the whole issue of Working Configurations needed a new thread, or for that matter a whole new entry in the Forum. Maybe under the heading of Reprapers or in the Software folder.

Maybe Sebastien you could resolve the issue of selecting an appropriate location in the Forum.

I'm busy setting up 3 of my machines with Hardware to test each of the configurations.

I may not be able to test this configuartion:-

rhmorrison Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> O.K. - My working combination is...
>
> Electronics: Gen3
> Firmware: RepRap firmware 20100806
> Host Software: RepRap Host 20100806
> Slicer Program: SF39 (Skeinforge)

As I never managed to get good RS485 communication to work with the 4 Extruder controllers I built.

I am assuming that Bob Morrison is using an extruder controler.

Anyone please feel free to add edit change anything I put into the Basic Starter Working Configurations page..

[reprap.org]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2011 02:56PM by BodgeIt.

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Bodge It [reprap.org]
=======================================

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BIQ Sanguinololu SD LCD board	BIQ Stepcon	BIQ Opto Endstop
BIQ Heater Block PCB	BIQ Extruder Peek clamp replacement	BIQ Huxley Seedling
BIQ Sanguinololu mounting	BIQ standalone Sanguinololu or Ramps mounting	Print It Stick It Cut it

My rep strap: [repstrapbertha.blogspot.com]

Buy the bits from B&Q pipestrap [diyrepstrap.blogspot.com]
How to Build a Darwin without any Rep Rap Parts [repstrapdarwin.blogspot.com]
Web Site [www.takeaway3dtech.com]

Hi,

Tonight I made a print with my first working configuration (I've added it to [reprap.org])
RepSnapper Basic Windows Configuration Mendel RAMPS 3D printer mechanism.
Host OS ~ Windows 7 64bits
Motherboard for Firmware ~ Ultimachine Ramps 1.1 Ramps
Software [svn.kulitorum.com]
Firmware [github.com] (BaudRate: 115200, Special Conf: Inverse Opto)
Full Package [www.gamefront.com] (+ config file)

It made the full print successfully however the quality is really bad :/ and I broke two main parts when trying to remove them from the bed.

I'll had some picture later.

Edit: Here some pictures [picasaweb.google.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2011 02:49AM by zzarbi.

looks like you just have to fine tune your settings a little more, but for your first print good job though.

i think i will use that setup just because i know it is working.

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

Great stuff, me too!

Finally getting excellent quality prints with ABS (no strings either) and sometimes making it to the end of print. It's now failing due to bed adhesion My heated bed is getting to 82C running direct off the RAMPS board, using four 2.2ohms resistors arranged to make a total resistance of 2.2 giving me 65 watts and drawing 5.4 Amps (this is the limit of RAMPS from my testing), any-more and the resettable fuse kicks in. Wow I would have never thought i'd be writing anything about electronics Bed is 5mm aluminium with kapton tape. Thing is, my ABS seems to be letting off quite a bit of oil, is this normal? It seems to be this oil that is allowing things to slip. It was cheap ABS and don't know if anybody else has tried the ABS from reprapkit.

I'll post some pics later.

setup is:
repsnapper v1.0 (make sure to turn off that temp reading) - i can't get the later version to run on my printers laptop, runs fine on my big machine (same operating system?)
SF40 - there was a setting in here that was biggest cause of poor prints - I haven't identified it yet but will post my good abs profile later.
tesla tonokip firmware - config file modded for SF40

dissidence Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> looks like you just have to fine tune your
> settings a little more, but for your first print
> good job though.
>
> i think i will use that setup just because i know
> it is working.

Well I'm printing using gcode made by RepSnaper because for some reason (previously posted page2) I cannot load gcode made by Skeinforge. It just look weird...
I know my printer is fine, I just need to find the good software/firmware.

hexitex: If it's leeching liquid when you heat it, you might try drying it out first. I know this is an issue for PLA (which tends to absorb water), but it's possible it could work for ABS as well.

Basically heat your filament to 60-70ish continuous (for PLA, that would be around the 50 mark) in a dry atmosphere (eg: dehumidified or using silica-gel packs to absorb moisture) for a number of hours.

To avoid doing it for all your plastic (no use if it's not going to help), you could (roughly) figure out how much it takes to print a specific object and just dry that much.

BTW:
- Do not use an oven that you cook with for this, due to possible plastic fumes. You could possibly make a box you could put on your heated bed (the head would need to be raised out of the way) and just use that as your heater (assuming the filament will fit above it).
- Silica-gel usually comes in packets (eg: anti-static plastic or fibre). It would be best to remove the Silica-gel from these packets when using in a heated environment (to avoid the packaging degrading/melting).
- Do not handle Silica-gel with bare skin or food items - use gloves, bowls and utensils that are specific to workshop use only. While Silica-gel used with food items is relatively safe, it's still best to be cautious.
- You might want to bake silica-gel packs for an hour in an open environment to try and cook out any moisture prior to use as well.
- Heating works for water absorption (which is particularly bad for PLA and nylon) so it may not be useful if the liquid you're seeing isn't caused by water content (rather than being water, it may be due to the presence of water causing the plastic to break down during melting).

Also, where did you get your Kapton tape for the bed?

Cefiar, good information thanks - it is possible that my printers location will allow cold air when not in use - but this is oil comming from the ABS, it's not water. Kapton tape came from mendelparts.com, i did have some other stuff from reprapkit.com that was kOpton tape so i replaced it with the real stuff, same results -oil under the prints - i think it's the abs to be honest, nice stuff if it would stick. I am switching to PLA from these guys orbitech until i can sort out a relay for a more powerful heated bed. Seems that their pla mix has almost no warping! I also ordered some abs to see if theirs is better.

I have a wall heater that could be used to dry the filament in 'hanging style' if it becomes an issue.

couple of pics from my first working prints, the large gear had an extruder issue which is fixed now. The first print was the pulley gear, not perfect but to me it was amazing, the whistle is the latest print and works very well.