ABS comes loose of heatbed

I am doing my first ABS prints, but they come lose after 2layers or 3. At bed temp of 75
Because tha corners curl up (loose from the heatbed) after a few layers the hotend will rip the object off the bed.

I currently raised the bed to 112 centigrade and extrude the ABS at 270. Warping is less than at 75 bed temp.
The bed wil not really get much hotter for now. But the problem persists.

Does it need to be hotter to prevent the warping?

Rgrds Thomas

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

What surface are you printing on?

I am printing on heated bed, aluminium covered with kapton.
I cleaned te kapton before print with alcohol cleanng tissue.

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

I'm just in the process of trying to get ABS printing on kapton to work. I can extrude fine, and if the parts are quite big, (lots of surface area) they may stick for 30-50 layers but will start curling after. Small parts will lift off the bed by 10-20 layers.

Extruding at 260 degrees on a mendel-parts v10, with bed at 105 degrees. (as hot as it will go - hot spots at the resistors are at 115 degrees).

The reprap wiki says that the bed needs to be a minimum of 120 degrees for raftless ABS kapton prints.

Just wondering if insulating the bottom of the bed will get the extra 15-20 degrees (and if so, how?), or should I go for lower resistance resistors? (Currently 6 ohms at 24Volts gives 105/110 degrees.

ABS should stick to Kapton at 100 C and not let go, is the heat distributed? Is the bottom of the aluminium insulated?

My bed is not insulated at the bottomside. I could start doing that.

Would a raft be of any help? My guess that the raft will have the same problem.

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

I've never had to use rafts, sometimes the corners of objects lift about 1mm. If you insulate the bottom of the heater, you should be able to get the temperature higher. Also clean the Kapton with acetone.

Have you tried "The Brim"?

[forums.reprap.org]

The Brim.....

Uhhhhhh... Nope,
Whatzat?

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

Hit the link in the above post.

Hi Thomas,
Don't know how your first layer is, but squashing it a bit down onto the table will make a good foundation for your next layers.
For example,if you print layers at 0.3 then try to adjust the starting layer to about 0.15. That will give a good adhesion.
Also you say that you extrude ABS at 270 degrees, that is way too hot if that temp is correct. It should be around 230 and the bed should be around 110 give or take a bit depending on printer/setup.
Also, don't use alcohol cleaning tissues as I think they leave behind a residue. I have used methylated spirits and found that to be as good as acetone, but without any nasty fumes etc.
Kind regards
Jan
MySite

Try These, TOGETHER

Slic3r, Skirts 5, 1 Layer, Distance 0

Bed ... Set it to 120.... ABS doesn't transition until 110...

Make ABS Glue, Acetone + ABS, I just put loads in a bottle of acetone (you can get pure acetone from pharmacy... 50ml bottle) £1.50, now its the consistency of PVA Glue. Get an old credit card and smear it on your heated bed, the acetone will evaporate instantly and leave you with a thin layer of abs on yor bed... PERFECT

OH, and try the klapton tape, works, but it think its a pain in the ass.