Diagonal pattern

I am getting a diagonal stripe pattern in the side of prints. Here is a 20 x 20 x 10 cube as an example. It prints to the correct size I just get this diagonal pattern.This was printed with .2 mm layer height and .35 on the first layer I used rectilinear for the infill and top and bottom layers.

[goo.gl]

Here is what I have done so far:

Made sure X axis is level by measuring between the X and Y guide rods on both ends
Leveled print bed
Made sure X and Y belts are tight
Calibrated Extruder steps per mm
Measured and set filament diameter

Here's on with the infill set to line.

[goo.gl]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2015 12:36AM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

My first guess would be over extrusion. In your slicer set the extrusion multiplier to .85 and see if that helps.

Seems like the extruder isn't running smoothly. The extruder gear should not move rhythmically but in one smooth and continuous motion. This can be current related ie skipping steps, or the step stick microstepping is the problem. Google stepstuck an decay mode hack. Both A4988 and 8825 can be configered to run smoother.

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I agree with you guys that it's something with the extruding.

Here is a cube with the multiplier set to .85 I still see the pattern and I am under extruding. When I calibrated the extruder steps I was about 8mm short out of 100.

[goo.gl]

I have all three jumpers under the drivers so I should be set to 16 microsteps right? Are you saying I should do the mod to be a 32?

Here is a video of the filament moving with the hot end removed when just manually extruding 100mm I put a black mark on there to try and show it moving.

[goo.gl]

Here is on with the hot end installed and up to temp.

[goo.gl]

When I had the hot end removed I heated it up and pushed some filament through by hand. I feel like it was pretty hard to push through but I have no frame of reference since this is my only printer. I tried increasing the temp a little and it didn't feel any easier.

If I were to set the stepper current for the extruder what should I set it to? I am not finding a good answer what it should be set it just how to do it. The motor is pretty hot but I would expect that since it's over the heated bed and an inch from the hot end.

Any other ideas of what to test?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2015 11:24PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I had similar issues after setting up a new hotend with the default settings.
Check your slicing settings for the start points of perimeters.
You did not mention if the pattern is all the way round...
I suspect it is the blob from the start of a new line, so maybe as simple as checking the retraction and wiping.

Quote
Downunder35m
I had similar issues after setting up a new hotend with the default settings.
Check your slicing settings for the start points of perimeters.
You did not mention if the pattern is all the way round...
I suspect it is the blob from the start of a new line, so maybe as simple as checking the retraction and wiping.

It has the same pattern all the way around. I have the seam position set to aligned and I have retract on layer change on. I can try changing the retraction length is there something else?

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

If you use A4988 you use 16x micro stepping, the 8825 uses 32 with the 3 jumpers in place.

The hack involves shorting R4 10k resistor on the A4988. For the 8825 you need to solder a wire to put it into the correct decay mode. On mine it was already replaced by a 000 Ohm resistor. They are tiny, but with a magnifier you can read them if your eye sight isn't perfect.

8825 hack

This illustrates the problem, it's almost like a second needle of a clock. I can imagine this would create the pattern you're seeing in your prints if the extruder motor moves in such a way:
Video illustrating the problem with 8825

Scroll down in the thread for the english version:
More info about decay hack

Quote
imqqmi
If you use A4988 you use 16x micro stepping, the 8825 uses 32 with the 3 jumpers in place.

The hack involves shorting R4 10k resistor on the A4988. For the 8825 you need to solder a wire to put it into the correct decay mode. On mine it was already replaced by a 000 Ohm resistor. They are tiny, but with a magnifier you can read them if your eye sight isn't perfect.

8825 hack

This illustrates the problem, it's almost like a second needle of a clock. I can imagine this would create the pattern you're seeing in your prints if the extruder motor moves in such a way:
Video illustrating the problem with 8825

Scroll down in the thread for the english version:
More info about decay hack

Thanks for the links. I have the A4988 I believe R4 says 000 so the hack is already done then right?

[goo.gl]

Would these drivers be better or the same as what I have? [reprap.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2015 06:58PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Here is another one after I raised the temp from 230 to 240 (this is ABS at the moment)

I think it looks smoother I think the picture looks worse than in person.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Here is one I printed with matter control after enabling their auto bed leveling feature [www.matterhackers.com]

[goo.gl]

On this one they layers look parallel to the bed but I still see the waviness.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2015 10:12PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Yep the hack is already in place. The stepstick you linked to is basically the same, it has an extra potmeter to replace R4 so one can adjust. The 0 ohm setting should do the trick.

Did you use ABL with the earlier prints as well? How straight are your z rods? The wobble can be transferred to the print. Usually without ABL you get layer shifts, but with ABL the z motor is constantly going back and forth. If you change your bed level, make it unlevel on purpose, does the wobble change as well? The more unlevel it is the more the z axis will need to compensate increasing the frequency of the wobble. Get your bed completely level and the wobble in the print will only remain per layer.

This thing could help with that, and fix z nut backlash in the process:
[www.thingiverse.com]