Infill options

Hello guys,

Do you know if using henycomb patern for infill help to reduce wrapping in printed part?

Thank you!

It partially does for me but the main factor for it is the shape of the part and how the walls are.
Horizontal and straight walls are often a pain, rounded shaped like a bowl on the other hand usually print just fine with minium warping.
What I did notice is that sometimes adding bogus walls in badly affected areas can help.
For example if the wall is 5mm thick I change the part so I get two walls with 2.4mm each.
Pain in the butt but in some cases it is my last resort.

Thank you Downunder35m,

It is a good option to divide thick walls, we will try it later. Unfortunately our part have a lot of horizontal and straight walls but from yesterday to now (almost 18 hours) the printing is going well with honeycomb infill , hot bed and printer enclosed.

Have a nice day!

For big parts that are prone to warping it really is best to have an enclosure.
The heating is not so much of an issue but a slight draft is.
Even in a closed room you will find the air moves, especially with a hot machine running.
The enclosure keeps the part at even tamps all the way around - so no good chance for anything to cool uneven.

As another tip for really big parts:
Create another, very simple model around your actual model.
By another model I mean a dedicated support structure for the areas in need of warp protection.
For example the dreaded 90° or sharper corners on long parts:
Create a "half moon" shaped tower around the corner but do not let it touch, keep about 3mm distance to the flat walls.
Now create some pillars going in a 60° angle up, either from the actual model or the support tower.
Distance between pillars depends on the layer height and what you experienced in layer peel.
So if good parts peel between 20 and 30 layers and bad part already at 10 layers you might want to tune you machine first as otherwise the cleanup is not worth the hassle.
Every 5 to 10mm should be good enough to everything together.
Try to place the pillars so you can cut them off with ease from the real model, so not directly onto the edge of a croner but instead on the flat bits with a mm or two distance.
Some slicers offer manual and complex support structures, most don't

And one last one for ABS only:
Usually ABS starts to peel directly on corners, far less on straight areas - you can use this for cheating
Once you are a few layers into the print keep a small jar of quite thin ABS juice and a little brush at hand.
Wet the straight areas near the corners with a very thin layer of juice.
When the print is high high enough for another brush stroke repeat for the new layers.
After the third round of cheating you also brush over the first layers corner.
Now you move up every time on the straights and the corners.
The affect is like this:
The straights get fused first so even if the corner starts to peel a tiny bit it will stop at the brushed area.
Once the corner is brushed over as well it is very unlikely that it will peel during the print.
The trick is NOT to start with the corners directly as otherwise you do the opposite: Until the acetone is evaporated you actuall decrease the layer bond and the corenr lifts off!