618 on glass!

Even better, it sticks to plain glass!

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Ash

Not for me it didnt.
It sticks super well to garolite though. Thats what I am using.

@Aces -

I curious what your bed temperature was. I wonder if ashhhh's use of PVA below its glass transition temperature caused a better bonding with the nylon and glass bed.

I got it to stick to PVA on Glass the issue was it literally peeled the PVA layer off the glass when it warped. Same thing happened with Blue tape for me.
It also sticks to Hairspray on glass which will hold it flat during the print, the issue being it warps as soon as you break the bond with the glass.

Everytime I see someone successfully printing with nylon it's big single walled prints, which are really not an issue with anything it will bond even a little to, the issue comes when you start trying to print anything even vaguely solid, say 1mm wall thickness and 50% infill. To me where the material is most interesting is for mechanical parts, I just can't reliably print it for those.

I have some garolite here to try, but my guess is it will do the same thing I saw with the hairspray on glass, hold it flat during the print, but warp the part on removal.
One think I will try next time I decide it's worth the frustration is to print an object then heat it to "relax" the stresses on it before removing it from the print surface.

I got small things to stick to the glue stick on glass without problem, haven't had a chance to print anything larger yet.
I also have had good results using a raft and printing onto unheated Masonite.

This glue isn't PVA guys, is completely different.
I've printed tall thin objects and also large flat objects, no issues so far.

PVA does not stick well to glass in my experience, I'm not surprised it rips up.
This glue stick CANNOT be peeled off, it requires water and razor to remove from the glass.

I have been using PVA (Aquadhere wood glue) mixed with 60% mentholated spirits and I just rub a small amount all over the glass area that I print on.
Dries very quickly and I have never had a warped print or had one come off.
The biggest problem is removing the print afterwards, but I found that if I put the glass in a bucket of water with the print still attached, it comes off easy after about 20 minutes.

I have found that the best method for me is to use the glue stick on glass then print using a raft, some of the prints I tried still pealed up mid print with just the glue stick and no raft. With the raft every print has worked great.
Thank you ashhhhh for figuring this out.

Ive used a bunch of different bed temps. Ive found that warping is kept to a minimum around 100C.
Ive made many things with nylon, but single walled things still give me the most fits. The adhesion is good. I print with a raft, and the print still sometimes pulls of the raft a bit at the edges. that stuff has some serious warping force. Ive found if you put the object at 30-45 degrees to the top raft layer, it helps keep it from pulling up as well.