Printing ABS Temp Issue: Please Help !!!

Dear Makers,

I have recently learned the difference between Pronterface and Slic3r from the generous people in this forum. I understand that you need to modify the g.code file in order to have set temperatures for the filament and the beg.


Problem: When I load the g.code to Pronterface from Slice3r, the settings for the ABS heater default to 0 Degrees( even though I set the ABS settings in Slic3r), where as the bed temp stays correct.
LCD Shows: 21/0 for extruder and 56/110 for bed. The bed temp slowly increases but the extruder does not.


Has anyone experienced this issue before? If so, what is the fix or am I doing something wrong?

By default pronterfacer will keep the temp at 200/200 and bed 0/0. I am looking to ensure I can print ABS 230/230 and bed 110/110.

Sincerely,

Janski

Pronterface doesn't do anything to change the temperature during printing. You can manually enter temperatures, but they will be over-ridden (usually) when the printer receives your g-code.

You have to tell your slicer what temperatures to operate at, and it generates the appropriate G code. I guess you can tell your slicer 0, and then manually set your temperatures, but it's far better to do it with the slicer because the slicer can then be in control of the overall cooling strategy.

In slic3r, the filament temperatures are set in the filament settings tab.

Dear Jbernardis,

So you are saying if I leave the temp in Slic3r at 0, then manually set the temperatures in Pronterface?

Normally, I found that when I click Set Temp in pronterface, the printer heats up to the temp stated, but then it slowly start to fall.

If i set this to "0" in slic3r, would i then have to keep on clicking set temp in pronterface? or will it keep the temp for the duration of the print time?

Thanks for the feedback

Sincerely,

Janski

Forget the 0 in slicer - it's not a good idea. You can preheat all you want from pronterface, but once you start printing, the G code will take over temperature management. If the G code says 0, the temperature will fall to 0.

Put the temperature you want in the slicer and then that's the temperature you should get when you print. If not, post the first 50 or so lines of your G code so we can figure out what's happening

Quote
Janski
Normally, I found that when I click Set Temp in pronterface, the printer heats up to the temp stated, but then it slowly start to fall.
If i set this to "0" in slic3r, would i then have to keep on clicking set temp in pronterface? or will it keep the temp for the duration of the print time?

If you hit "set temp" in pronterface and your temps dont hit what you set it to and stay there then you have an issue.
I can "set temp" to 230 and it heats up and maintains 230 until I tell it to stop.
Same goes for heated bed in Pronterface.

What could be the issue if Pronterface default set tempdoes not keep the temp constant?

Is this a Marlin Script/Pronterface setup issue or electrical?

Quote
jbernardis
Forget the 0 in slicer - it's not a good idea. You can preheat all you want from pronterface, but once you start printing, the G code will take over temperature management. If the G code says 0, the temperature will fall to 0.

Bit puzzled by that?
I set my temps in slic3r to 0 and 0 so I can manually set them in Pronterface. When temp is reached, the printer starts and temp is maintained accurately throughout the job.

---

_______________________________________
Waitaki 3D Printer

I am using a QU-BD extruder with RB59 heating diode. After waiting for about 15 minutes the heater finally got to correct temp, but it bounces back and forth between 220 and 230 degrees C. JB you thing the issue is with the heating diode?

the thermistors work fine.

I switched to a new heating element and swapped to same QU-BD as I bought 2 at the same time. the new heating element seems to reach the temperature faster.

However, now I keep getting the filament jammed at the extrusion point

Do you guys recommend getting a different extruder for my Ord Bot

Sincerely,

Janski

PS: thank you for the feedback guys! please advise.

Quote
waitaki

I set my temps in slic3r to 0 and 0 so I can manually set them in Pronterface. When temp is reached, the printer starts and temp is maintained accurately throughout the job.

Waitaki = how long does it take for the extruder to reach the temp. and does the temp stay the same withing 1-2 degrees? like the bed? or does it fluctuate?

Mine bounces back and forth between 220 and 230.

Then when I reach the temp. I keep getting the filament jammed in the extrusion point

Lastly, I need to push the filament down, because it does not seem like the Gear is pushing the filament down hard enough and is just slipping.

Please advise, see attached pics.

Janski

Quote
waitaki
Bit puzzled by that?
I set my temps in slic3r to 0 and 0 so I can manually set them in Pronterface. When temp is reached, the printer starts and temp is maintained accurately throughout the job.

It's actually not a bad idea, but I just didn't want to muddy the waters. Janski seemed like someone who was just getting started and I didn't want to start giving instructions for this in pronterface and that in the slicer. It just seemed simpler to keep things in one place.

Actually, I do a little of both. I let my slicer handle temperatures. This way it's easier, for example, to have the bed temperature reduce as the build rises. It;s also the only way to go with multiple extruders if you want to control oozing, because you can (someday) have the slicer lower the temps on the inactive tool. However, I think it is a very bad idea to just load up a G code file and hit the print button. There is no way you can be sure that the extruder is adequately primed. I always turn on the heaters manually, and when they reach temperature I manually extrude until things are flowing smoothly. Then - and only then - do I hit the print button

Yeah, I agree, its best to keep things simple initially.

Waitaki = how long does it take for the extruder to reach the temp. and does the temp stay the same withing 1-2 degrees? like the bed? or does it fluctuate?
Mine bounces back and forth between 220 and 230.

It should only fluctuate 1-2 degrees at most. I use a cartridge heater which I'm guessing takes 60-90 secs to reach temp. I know nothing about QU-BD thingys so can't advise on them.

---

_______________________________________
Waitaki 3D Printer

Hey Guys,

I placed an order for a cartridge heater 40 w 5mm from Amazon. Hoping this will help me with maintaining temperature at 230 and faster response.

Currently i am using RB59 Resistor. Not sure if this is the optimal resistor to use and it looks a bit flaky.

This is the resistor that came with the Hardron Ord Bot kit from www.automationtechnologiesinc.com.

Has anyone used the RB59 resistor and did not have any issues? or anyone that did ?

Please advise on proper Resistor type for my Ord Bot Project

Sincerely,

Janski

RB59 specifies a type of resistor, not the resistance of that resistor. As far as I can tell from the automationtechnologiesinc site, they don't sell extruders or hot ends or include either in their kits, so I can't tell from there what resistor was used.

Can you measure the actual resistance of the resistor you are using?