Finding the right temperature

What is the process that most follow in finding the right temperature for a printing material ?

I have a roll of PLA, ABS, Nylon 618 and NinjaFlex
I have been able to get ABS to print, everything else clogs up the extruder
I have read from the manufacturers website the printing temperature which is often in a range like 230 to 260 I have taken the mid point and started there and then increased if necessary , no success

Also should the tension on the extruder motor be adjusted for each material ?

Thanks in advance

I print PLA at 185 and ABS at 225.

What hot end are you using? Some cheap hot ends won't handle anything other than ABS very well.

In general, PLA should print as low as 180°C depending on the brand and your hot end. I print PLA at about 200 - 220°C, but my thermistor calibration is off a little bit.

The idler tension may have to be adjusted a little bit for each material, depending on how soft it is.

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Thanks

Currently using a
3D Printer J Head Hot End Kit for 3.0 mm Filament - 0.35 mm, Resistor, Thermistor, Teflon Tubing (from Amazon)

But I have also ordered a
Getech 3D Printer RepRap Assembled J-Head Hot End Hotend for 3mm filament ABS/PLA for Prusa Mendel. 4 options Nozzle Size:0.3mm,0.35mm,0.4mm,0.5mm (0.3mm Nozzle) (also from Amazon)

Which I am waiting to arrive, as I think I might have messed the original hot end up, since it keeps clogging up


My Filaments are as follows:
* Ninjaflex TPE 3D Printing Filament, 1.75 mm Diameter, Snow, .50 kg Spoo
* 1kg (2.2lbs), 1.75mm, PLA 3d Printer Filament, Natural color by DeltaMaker
* Octave 1.75mm White ABS Filament 1kg (2.2lbs) Spool for Reprap,
* Octave Taulman 3D 618 Natural Nylon Filament for 3D Printer 1.75mm 1lb Spool

Thanks for all your support

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TheBearF8
Currently using a
3D Printer J Head Hot End Kit for 3.0 mm Filament - 0.35 mm, Resistor, Thermistor, Teflon Tubing (from Amazon)

It's possible that the J Head that you have is a cheap clone rather than an original J Head. Can you link to the Amazon product that you purchased? Can you also post a picture of the hot end you have, so we can see if it matches what you ordered?

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TheBearF8
But I have also ordered a
Getech 3D Printer RepRap Assembled J-Head Hot End Hotend for 3mm filament ABS/PLA for Prusa Mendel. 4 options Nozzle Size:0.3mm,0.35mm,0.4mm,0.5mm (0.3mm Nozzle) (also from Amazon)

This is definitely a cheap J Head clone, and will likely have problems with printing anything other than ABS. See: [jheadnozzle.blogspot.com]

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Sure the original J-Head
[www.amazon.com]
[ecx.images-amazon.com]

Following you jheadnozzle link very much like the first one including the red inside tube , washer and hex nut etc…
The RPW MK V-BV hotends.com



Can you then recommend a link where I can buy a decent Hot End that will print different materials esp. ABS, PLA, Nylon and NinjaFlex

Thanks again

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TheBearF8
Sure the original J-Head
[www.amazon.com]
[ecx.images-amazon.com]

They are selling that hot end as an original hotends.com hot end, so the hot end you received should match that image exactly (5 slots in the PEEK, compact brass heater block/nozzle, red PTFE liner, etc.).

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TheBearF8
Can you then recommend a link where I can buy a decent Hot End that will print different materials esp. ABS, PLA, Nylon and NinjaFlex

The original hot end that you got should have no problems printing all of those materials if you use the proper temperatures, though printing nylon will bring temperatures close to the max operating temperature of the hot end (this is true of any hot end that uses PEEK and PTFE). Do you have a fan cooling the PEEK for printing PLA? Without it, PLA will usually jam.

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I'm attaching two photos
( 0892 )
The first is the original hot end I just pulled it out of the holder
Yes I have a 12VDC fan blowing on the PEEK (The black tube) yes


The Other hot end I was waiting for just arrived and so I photographed it ( 0893 )


The only print I have managed to get right was PLA without the fan at around 205 oC

Everything else has failed, including the latest attempts with PLA using a fan

Thanks again

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2014 06:30PM by TheBearF8.

Quote
TheBearF8
I'm attaching two photos
( 0892 )
The first is the original hot end I just pulled it out of the holder
Yes I have a 12VDC fan blowing on the PEEK (The black tube) yes


The Other hot end I was waiting for just arrived and so I photographed it ( 0893 )


The only print I have managed to get right was PLA without the fan at around 205 oC

Everything else has failed, including the latest attempts with PLA using a fan

Thanks again

In this case, I would try getting an exchange on the original hot end you purchased. With a fan blowing on the PEEK, it should have no problem printing PLA.

That new hot end you bought may work, but I wouldn't be surprised if it fails to print anything other than ABS.

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Thanks
I'll try getting a replacement

Can you recommend a link where I could perhaps buy a replacement also ?

But looking ahead (hopefully) and say I have a working hot end

What is the right way to find the correct temperature of a material. Is there a proper procedure or process ?


Also, When Z is at home, what exactly should be the height between the tip of the hot end and glass of the table ?

Thanks again

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2014 06:49PM by TheBearF8.

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TheBearF8
Thanks
I'll try getting a replacement

Can you recommend a link where I could perhaps buy a replacement also ?

I recommend getting a J Head from the original creator, at hotends.com.

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TheBearF8
What is the right way to find the correct temperature of a material. Is there a proper procedure or process ?

The best way is to start at the lower end of the recommended printing temperatures (see PLA, ABS), and increase temperature as necessary to get reliable extrusion.

I would start at 180°C with PLA, and go from there. If it is difficult to extrude, raise the temp by 5°C and try again. Repeat as necessary. You shouldn't need to exceed 220°C for any PLA, or your temperature reading is off.

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TheBearF8
Also, When Z is at home, what exactly should be the height between the tip of the hot end and glass of the table ?

Ideally at Z=0, the hot end should just barely be touching the glass. If this causes issues (because your glass isn't perfectly flat or something), you can set Z=0 to be about 0.1mm above the glass using a piece of thin paper, and set your slicer to offset Z by -0.1mm.

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