Big size printing (25cm x 20cm x 10cm

Hello,

I never tried to get an answer through a forum.
I have a big problem. the warping on my part that i want to print is so high that the Capton lifts up with the plastik.(i fiixed it with a glue)
even the different layers get off .
After that i tried to change my point of view by using hairspray. It is better but get off.
I have no idea what to do. does reducing bed temp. solve my problem or cooling the part down with a ventilator.

Can someone help me?

What plastic are you using?
What is your extruder temperature?
What is your bed temperature?

ABS: Extruder = 220°C - 250°C; Bed = 100°C - 115°C
PLA: Extruder = 180°C - 240°C (depends on filiamant, I use 210°C); Bed = 60°C - 75°C

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Hello rhmorrison,

Thank You for the quick replay.
i am using pla. 1,75mm a nozzle of 0.5mm.
The extruder is 230c and the bed is 90c

The first layer I did 0.5mm and the other 0.4mm.
The problem begins at layer 4 or 5

I tried to subdivide the lower layers but it didn't work neither.

.5mm layer with a .5mm nozzle is no good! Lower your layer height!

A temperature 90°C is too high for PLA.
Use between 60°C and 75°C.
I would try 60°C first.

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Hello,

thank You very much for all the answers.

I reduced the height of of all layers to 0.3: reduced the bed temp to 65c tried a ney print. I even rechecked the leveling of the bed

the print looks very nice bad all 4 corners lift up.

has anyone an idea?

i read about reducing the bed temp or to cool the print from the top. does someone have an idea if it works?

I have no problem at all with printing PLA on clean glass with bed temp at the following temperatures:

First two layers: Bed 55C, Hot End 200C, Cooling fan off
After the first two layers: Bed 53C, Hot End 190C, Cooling fan on

I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle with first layer at 0.35mm and other layers at 0.3mm

Here's a photo of the bed cooling fan...

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-David

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Hello,

thank You for Your answer.

after the lift off at the corners, i glued my part to fix it and to try to save my print.

The result: i have as much tension in the different layers that they spread.

is it the speed of the print? the temp or the shape of my part.

in different blogs the tell about a different bed with integrated heater. could this be a solution?

to MindRealM.

I have a Mendel max 2,5. i don`t know if it`s a good mashine.

Are there differences in printing due to the hardware?

Your photo shows the layers are not adhering to each other, and the lifting is causing the hot end to hit the raised portion, which in turn is causing the X and Y axes to jam and offset the print.

The difference in the bed temperature and the ambient air temperature is causing the upper layers to shrink as they cool, pulling the lower layers upward. This can be minimized by printing on a cold, clean glass plate instead of heating the bed, or by decreasing the difference in the bed/room temperatures. Since you are printing a large object, the start point on each layer is allowed a long to to set and cool before the next layer is applied. This is causing the next layer not to stick to the cooled plastic beneath. This is also a problem when plating a large amount of smaller objects at the same time. Each object sits and cools while the others are printing...

If you must print large objects, or a plate filled with smaller objects, I would suggest working out a way to enclose the printer or place heat lamps where they will maintain the upper surface warmth while printing.

I don't believe the problem is in your printer hardware, just the method and environment in which you are printing... You are able to successfully print smaller objects, correct?

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-David

Find me online at:
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Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

Hello David,

that's correct. small object aren't a problem.

If Your thinking is correct I should heat the environment and not the bed and surely not cool the top layer but heat it up.( i have no idea how )

so ..... I`ll try it now no heat on the bed and the room hot.

is ABS easier to handle? or is there an alternative to PLA and ABS

Charly

PLA is easier to print (and takes less electricity) than ABS, due to the temperature increases and bed adhesion difficulties that come with ABS printing. However, ABS is more suitable for higher temperature applications.

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-David

Find me online at:
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Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

Hello,

now i printed with a cold bed and 230 deg

one half of the print with glue and the other without. Result: with glue is better.

than I restarted the print with glue and a cold bed. Result Warping on the 4 corners after 6 Layers

Is it possible that, when i lift my part up ,5mm and put support material underneath that it works?

As i wright these words, i here the plastik retract (ting, ting)

Charly

Isn't 230C a bit high for PLA? I have always heard that you should print at the lowest temp you can to reduce cooling shrinkage. I would suggest dropping your hot end temp to 200C (or lower).

I would suggest printing with cooling fan off. That first of all. Do not put your fan on at all.

Secondly, heated bed at 60º for first layer. 50º for rest of the layers.

Third hotend temp at 210º if that's possible (depends on your calibration and what the 'actual' temp is).

Fourth put your printer somewhere in your room where there can not be any draft.

Fifth, try to print on Kapton (works wonders for me)

Sixth, 5 or 6mm brim around your print if possible.

Seventh, before printing, clean the kapton with acetone.

If none of this helps, I would doubt my calibration of extrusion, and doubt the quality of the PLA. I have switched between PLA manufacturers a few times now and I've had some really bad samples.

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