gear teeth keep curling...

I am trying to print a Wade Reloaded Extruder with herringbone gears. I am printing everything in ABS, with a fairly strong solution of ABS juice on the plate. I have also tried some "extra hold" hair spray. Filament has been run at 230 to 235 (tried different settings) and the bed at 120. Speed at 60 cm/sec.. I am printing everything - guidler, block, groove mount, and gears - all at once, but I am having a problem with the teeth on the big gear curling up after it builds up just so high. I'm getting frustrated. I really don't want to go with a raft, as they tend to be hard to remove whether sliced in Cura or Slic3r (I've used both). Any helpful suggestions?

i use hair spray and a 5mm brim 110 bed and 230 extruder try it also try doing the ger alone

Purple PVA glue and a well leveled bed its all you need.
Lower bed temperature to 110 and lower first layer speed to half of what you are currently using.

Do you have a fan blowing on the part that may cause the curling?

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

I print the large wheel, in fact all abs, on kapton tape with a brim and the bed at 110degC and nozzle at 230degC.
I can repeat it like this without any problems and doesnt shift off the bed.
It can be difficult to remove but will come off after removing the brim and giving it a sharp knock with a screwdriver handle.


Gordon

No fans blowing except the power supply, and that isn't blowing on the bed at all.

I have never had any luck with Kapton tape on a bed - I always end up with bubbles and wrinkles, and it's tedious besides. Less trouble applying hair spray or ABS juice.

Haven't tried a lower bed temp. Seems counter-intuitive - wouldn't colder temps tend to make things stick LESS? But I guess if it works...

Also, how much of a pain is it to remove a brim from ABS gear teeth? That's the only reason I haven't tried that one yet. I like to use a 6mm brim wherever possible with other prints and it usually works very well.

Most of the brim breaks off. The last littlebit i use a small file just to clean it up. Or you can use a small modellers scalpel/knife.

Kapton is easy to put on if you know how.
I put 20cm wide kapton on my ikea mirror glass with a little bit of soapy water and then squeegy them with an old credit/debit card.
I use a tray big enough for the glass with the soapy water in it. Drop the glass in and float the tape on the water.
Move the tape about to get the air out from under it.
Lift the glass taking the tape with it. Then squeegy the water out. Leave to dry for a little while. Then trim.
No bubbles, no creases and as the ikea mirror tiles are so cheap i do 4 at a time. I get through 2 a week so its not a burden.
They are re-useable till you accidentaly rip a bit getting the print off. All i do between prints is give them a wipe with acetone.
If theres a small rip on one bit and its a small print you can always move the print over a bit in the slicer to eak them out.
Ive found this easier than the other methods and the print sticks really well.
But dont try ninjaflex on kapton. It sticks like super glue and just takes the tape off.

Gordon

I find that an elmers dissappearing purple gluestick works very well, and that if you then go over it with a paper towl and hot water (with the bed at 50 degrees) you can get the bed stickier. My ABS hardly warps and my bed only reaches 55 degrees (40w bed)

Also, try printing with a 200-300% extrusion width for the first layer (cura)

and the bed at 120

That would be an issue. Without seeing a photo I am going to guess what it looks like and I would say lower the bed to 85c-90c Too much heat on the bed keeps the plastic soft and it warps.

What it looks like, once the part is done printing, is once it is off the bed you can see that the teeth have all detached from the bed and curled up slightly while the rest of it stayed flat. The edges of the teeth are not straight because of that.