Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 30, 2015 11:25AM
I searched around and the answer I found was increase the temp. I did and didn't help. I usually print abs at 245 and bed at 110 I even lowers the bed to 95 and hotbed to 235 and still comes out the same when I print. This only happens when I print in painters tape not directly on the glass. But I can't find any thing that will make the glass sticky enough. I tried hair spray didn't work tried water mixed with sugar and get mixed results. What am I doing wrong and what can I do to fix it. and why are the layers on the bottom are thicker and the top no tso much
Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/30/2015 11:29AM by dnukeg.
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Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 30, 2015 02:21PM
Try kapton tape on the glass.
You can also use a brim, set this in your slicer.
Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 30, 2015 05:47PM
Ok I will thanks a lot also someone else suggested glue stick I'll try that first the tape seems a little pricy lol
Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 31, 2015 03:26AM
With a heated bed you should not have many problems in terms of warping parts.
But I found a good use for my misprinted ABS parts by dissolving them in Acetone.
I have a glass plate on my bed that can I lift out very easy and I use this Acetone / ABS mix and a brush to coat my blue tape.
Work best after sanding the surface a bit with fine sand paper.
If there is enough ABS dissolved in the Acetone it is sometimes tricky to get the blue tape off the printed parts, so usually the tape lifts off before the print lifts off the tape.
Downside is you have to prepare the print bed outside to avoid the stinky fumes but once the smell is gone it is ready to print.
Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 31, 2015 05:03AM
Any idea as to why it's warping. I tied the glue stick it worked fine the first print after that all the others have a slight curve could it be a u leveled bed ? How precisely does the bed need to be adjusted. And for the actions and abs mix I just drop the misprinted parts and leave it there till they dissolve ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2015 05:04AM by dnukeg.
Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 31, 2015 05:15AM
Quote
dnukeg
I searched around and the answer I found was increase the temp. I did and didn't help. I usually print abs at 245 and bed at 110 I even lowers the bed to 95 and hotbed to 235 and still comes out the same when I print. This only happens when I print in painters tape not directly on the glass. But I can't find any thing that will make the glass sticky enough. I tried hair spray didn't work tried water mixed with sugar and get mixed results.

Sugar water is good as a coating for printing PLA on, but not for ABS AFAIK. The usual way to print ABS on glass is to paint ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) on the glass. Before coating it for the first time, I clean the glass thoroughly in hot soapy water using a nylon scouring pad, dry it with paper towel (not a cloth towel, which will have traces of fabric conditioner on it).

Also make sure there is no air or backwash from the hot end fan blowing on the print, and no draughts.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: Bottom comes out curved When printing on painters tape
May 31, 2015 09:50AM
When you say "warping" does that also include the part is very easy to get off the print bed in some areas?
If so you are loosing the grip on the tape.

There are plenty of "recipies" on the ABS / Acetone mix on the web, I do not bother with those...
Little jar that has a tight lid and about half full with acetone.
I put pieces of ABS in there and they very slowly dissolve.
Once the mix has the thickness of wall paint I stop adding ABS.
If too thick after some time add a bit more acetone, after all you only need a slight soak and coat of the paper to make it stick.

I also experimented with a sandblasted glass plate for direct printing.
It needs to be heated up though (would not be a problem with a heated bed under it).
The pro: Almost anything sticks quite good to it if you start slow.
The bad: the bed must be perfectly leveled as you don't want to scrape the nozzle over the sanded glass.
Getting the parts of can be tricky if the setting were perfect, having a quick release for the plate to put it in the freezer works quite well.
After the different expansion rates the two basically just snap apart.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2015 10:15AM by Downunder35m.
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