Odd issue with ABS curling (not off of print bed)

I recently got my Folger Tech Prusa i3 working, but this issue arose when trying to print some wire chains in red ABS: Some of the corners/edges just rise upwards after the first 10 layers or so (printing at .1mm later height). They don't rise off the bed, but rather they curl upwards from their previous layers and make the print in that area sloppy. It wasn't unusual to see it curl to over 2mm up from the rest of the layer that was printed previously. I have tried extrusion temperatures from 200 to 230C, and it doesn't seem to change much. My guess would be that the slight overhang that it's trying to print causes the material to cool faster and contract, but that's just my guess.Its getting really annoying, and it's ruined a lot of prints. What should I do? (also, what settings are other people using for ABS?)

EDIT: just tried again with PLA, and the same thing happens! I've attached anothe picture of it (the black piece) to this post.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2015 07:04PM by Lazerlord.

Overhangs without support are apain with ABS and Nylon.
Try to generate some support for those lifting areas.
The print itself also looks quite unclean, are you sure the printer is properly calibrated? If not do it before trying to print serious stuff.

I have the same crappy i3, after much improvement to it, that doesn't happens anymore, build an enclosure around and over the printer for printing abs, keep the platform area temp steady, with a print fan at 30% to 40% max, 115c first layer 110c after no less than 100c, for ABS I print between 240c to 250c, as high as 260 sometimes depending on speed and layer heights, I did those things and since then I printed parts with minimal supports and 0 supports bridging with no problem any more,

oh for PLA I use full power on fan from second layers on but I have PLA on higher speed, 50mm/s on first layer the rest are faster, I don't know if it reached 150mm/s but it does move fast so hotend temp is 235c, parts comes out perfect, just a bit like spider web comes of easy, you cant really avoid that when going fast.I also have a door that i leave open when printing PLA, 68c first layer 54c after on bed, never any warp or lift on any layers, my x idler and motor mount i'm currently using were printed at reasonably fast at 0.1mm, i printed at 0.1mm mainly because the leadscrew thread are printed together and minimum recommended height is 0.1mm

this is printed in ABS, double check your calibration on everything



this is the leadscrew threaded pla print

PLA

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2015 08:47PM by deaconfrost.

Thanks for the info. I suspected that calibration may be a bit off, so I'm printing a hollow 20mm cube with 1mm walls as I type this message. I suspect that the extruder steps aren't calibrated to the best that they could be. If anything else comes up, I'll let you know.

One more thing I forgot to mention, the thermistor from folgerusbbish reads a bit lower on mine when I got it, which I didn't think was that far off till I changed them. Could have been just my luck but no harm testing or get a decent one they only cheap even for a good one.

It might be over extruding in the corners or in smaller walls due to a bug in slic3r 1.2.8 and 1.2.9. Use 1.1.7 to 1.2.7. Also check the Vxy-jerk setting. If it's much lower than the average print speed the corners gets more extruded material, which will eventually build up and curl up.

the first thing I did with this folgerubbish i3 was configure the firmware from scratch which made improvements to the print straight away, still not good enough but acceptable at the time, I'm currently running marlin 1.1 most recent RC version, folgerubbish firmware is old and has not been update for like forever. you can have a look at my configuration.h maybe it can help you a bit

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2015 03:37PM by deaconfrost.

Seems like a good idea. I was thinking about doing that, but I wasn't sure if it was worth completely redoing the firmware. It seems like it is, especially because I've had issues with it already. Axis not inverting, homing not working the way it should, etc. I'll (probably) be busy configuring the firmware for quite a while, but wit will save on wasted plastic at least! As you can probably tell, my experience in 3D printer construction and configuration is next to none, so I feel like I'm completely clueless. Guess I need to start somewhere!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2015 08:35PM by Lazerlord.