Corner curling

Hi, i'm having this problem printing PLA on my i3 when i'm printing larger objects where sharp corners curl up slightly. I'm printing with the bed at 45 and nozle at 82, but changing these doesnt seem to help much.
Does anyone know what may be causing this?


Thanks.

Bed should be around 60C for PLA and I'm assuming that's a typo where you said nozzle is set at 82C?

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Waitaki 3D Printer

Degrease that sheet of glass with glass cleaner, rinse with lots of water under the tap and dry with a piece of paper, NOT a towel or something that has been in the laundry machine.
Bed temp should be 60°C and after a few layers I lower it manually to 50°C.

Quote
waitaki
I'm assuming that's a typo where you said nozzle is set at 82C?

Sorry that's a typo, it's at 182.
I'l try increasing the bed temperature and cleaning it. Thanks for the replies.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2016 12:44PM by croak3r.

Hi!

Good way to prevent corner lift is to print like this:

1. Clean your bed properly with alcohol
2. Add an even layer of blue tape or something else
3. Clean the layer with alcohol
3. Heat the bed to 60 degrees and turn it off when you're about to print
4. Start printing and remember to use brim (I use 10 mm brim)

I had big problems with PLA but now its working perfectly.

My nozzle temp is 200 and I use E3D Volcano hot-end.

If I print on glass I always use bed temp at 60 degrees, but nowadays I only print on blue tape.

Thanks, i recently switched to glass to make my prints easier to remove from the bed so i think i will try the tape again. I've been playing arround with different temperatures and it's much better now, but i'm still getting a little bit of curling when using glass.
I'm occasionally getting large gaps like this picture when i do large prints though, does anyone know what may be causing it?

I've had also a lot of problems PLA sticking to the printbed.

Tried bluetape before, which worked pretty well. But sometimes even with this, prints began to warp pulling the bluetape from the glass bed. I Also had a lot of difficulties getting the finished prints from the bluetape afterwards.
I'm now printing directly on glass. The first important step here is to get a propper bed leveling. The distance between nozzle and bed should be quite small, so the first layer gets squeezed verry thin onto the bed. A hotter nozzle temperature can help you with this for the first layer. As axample, I'm using 205C for the first layer, and 200C for the rest of the print (depending on the PLA you use).

I keep my bed temperature at 50C (also because my heatbed can't handle much higher temperatures) in combination with hairspray. This gives me advantages compared to bluetape.
- Print sticks onto the bed itself (bluetape loosens, which gives room for warping).
- When print is finished and printbed is cooled down, I only have to lift the print a bit with a Stanley knife and the print pops off.
The only disadvantage is that I have to clean or spray the glass bed with hairspray again after each prints. So I'm looking after another solution for replacing a glass bed. Maybe Buildtak should be a good replacement (did not have tried it yet) [www.buildtak.eu] or perhaps replacing the glass bed with another material (want to try polycarbonate or plexi glass). A PEI-sheet seems to be a good replacement aswell, but I found that this is a verry expensive material to try.