First Layer Issues

I have had my printer for a while now but recently I have been having first layer problems, I have leveled the bed, set the z endstop, and calibrated the extrusion width but I always end up with a first layer that look like this. I am trying to print at 0.2mm with a nozzle daimeter of 0.5mm using black PLA at 195°C and a bed temp of 45°C.

I suppose that it is the tape you use on your bed? It looks like masking tape bubbling, curling... Perhaps I'm wrong?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2016 07:02AM by Plasteroid.

---

Prusa i3, Ramps 1.4. Catnozzle 0.4mm
SketchUp - Enveloping Globoid Worm Gear - Part One - 3D Printed: [youtu.be]
DesignSpark Mechanical & more precise screw thread: [youtu.be]
Nicer Screw Thread In SketchUp ( Bolts,Nuts): [youtu.be]
How To Model A Heart Shape In SketchUp: [youtu.be]
How To Draw 3D Printable Snap Fit Ball Joint In SketchUp: [youtu.be]

I have tried it with different tapes and no heated bed and it alwas does the same. Just by accident think i figured it out, when i print directly from the pc via usb it messes up the first layer but if i print from sd card it prints almost perfect. Any idea why this might happen?

I'm newbie in 3D Print but maybe you change accidentally some parameter for first layer on your slicer software.

You wouldn't be the first person with a bad USB cable. Try a new one. Also keep it as short as possible to minimize RF interference. Lots of wires and signals flying around next to your controller.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2016 04:41PM by dtwrv6.

go to here [www.3dhubs.com]
great tutorial
Thanks ,

hey im not good at this shit but i had that happen to me today. it was because my fan was on during the first layer.
is your fan running?

If you are printing with ABS, then I would say that looks exactly like over extrusion on the first layer. I suffered with that for a long time until I realized what it was. Lower the extrusion rate at least on the first layer.

It puzzles me why people use heated beds when printing with PLA or PETG. When I first got my printer kit the pre assembled bed MK2 came covered with blue painters tape. I started with PLA and could not get it to stick, tried glues no luck until I got the proper nozzle to bed distance correct then things started to stick but the aluminum plate was uneven high on edges low in middle like Detroit streets made leveling a chore prints would be squashed on one side delaminated on the other. So I got a 1/4 inch glass plate and covered it with blue tape and printed on it made a significant improvement but had to rip tape off to get parts off still a little warped found that bed level was changing during the print caused mainly from Z axis motor couplings springing open and close fixed that issue bed now stayed level. But then the blue painters tape new each print would bubble or lift off the glass in spots another uneven first layer squashed deformed mess.Solution was ditch the tape go directly to glass but parts were like newbies playing ice hockey sliding all over some said heat the bed just made the ice melt and current draw stole from steppers and nozzle. Get a bigger power supply..forget about it ! I used some Elmers School Glue in a stick and rubbed on the glass and now the first layer is smooth and sticks to the bed use a razor blade to gently tap parts off the glass. Now I print with PETG and never use the heated bed until I change to other filaments at which time I will get a separate power supply for the heaters. To sum it all up a LEVEL bed and NOZZLE distance is the most crucial aspect to first layer problems get that right or buy a coloring book. Some say I have auto leveling and while that may work well it is a software solution to a hardware problem for quick settings relying on inductive,capacative or photo electric sensors but you should learn how to manually adjust the bed and nozzle when auto fails. That's my story and I'm STICKING to it.

---

rwt