Looking for PEI like build material for Nylon: My garolite results aren't very good.

I had been using PVA glue stick on glass for my nylon prints. I can get functional parts but found no matter what I would do I had edge warping. I used to have a similar problem when printing ABS using hair spray on glass until changed to a PEI surface. That stuff worked wonders for my ABS prints. It sticks great at temperature and comes off easily on cooling. I am looking for something similar for nylon.


I saw on this board to try Garolite. I ordered a sheet McMaster and clamped it to my glass print surface. My nylon stuck to Garolite but it stuck to well. When I removed it it ripped the garolite apart and left some of the part on the bed.

Another thread on Garolite on the forum.


(Garolite sticks too well. Doesn't come apart like PEI on cooling. 275 Deg C hot end/45 Deg C bed )

I also saw some posts on this forum suggesting to use paper products like a manila file folder. I cut a sheet out and yest it stuck. Again though, too well I found the same results as the garolite. It stuck so well I couldn't get it off.


(Manila file folder rips apart too on part removal. 275 Deg C hot end/45 Deg C bed)

The nylon I've been working with is Gizmo Dorks Nylon I got from Amazon.com. I'm printing it out of a dry box that says it's at 16% humidity.

Does anyone have suggestions how a good bed material to print nylon onto or any ideas on how to get this to work better?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2016 08:55PM by CTCHunter1.

You could try printing the first layer at a lower temperature or slightly higher or with a smaller W/T ratio to reduce adhesion.

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Are you using a heated chamber? Nylon, even more than ABS, warps strongly and a good measure against it is to have as small a temperature difference over the printed part as possible during printing.

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I don't know if you have access to a good CAD program, but I print a lot in nylon for one of my customers and what I did to solve my warping problems was make and assembly with two parts, the bottom part is a sacrificial one that is larger and solid then I constrain the actual part one layer apart from it (like a brim, but designed to improve adhesion and minimize wasted material) and the second thing as mentioned is the use of a heated chamber. I use bakelite instead of garolite and I sanded with fine grid.