Some Edges of ABS Print Not Sticking

Hi all, I think this benchy came out ok except for the droopy parts in the pic, which is the third time happening to me, does anyone have a idea?

220C first layer then 210C with 100C bed
.3 layer height
.5 extrusion width
25mm print speed for everything (bridging is 45)
2mm retraction at 80mm a sec

also I haven't used an enclosure, any ideas would be appreciated

Don't have much experience on this but in the interests of giving you some support:-
Assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle the extrusion width is about right for normal printing but could be an issue for bridging. I still run mine on auto so the software can adjust it.
Too higher an extrusion temperature? I would have thought 220 was an OK number but could be under reporting if the thermistor is loose.
Could try lowering the layer height and check the Z calibration. Not much sign of squidge on the layers. If you have a big layer height you have a lot more material suspended in the air.

Thats fairly cold for ABS. I print mine at 240 the entire print.
I cannot print one benchy out of ABS at a time because of cooling. Try printing 2 or more to improve the print.

Using Generic names for Slicer Features.

Minimum Layer Time: This setting is in most slicers in some form, and limits print speed so that a single layer cannot print so fast that there is insufficient cool down time before the next layer prints.

Print Order: You can control what part of a layer prints first. Outer Perimeter, Inner Perimeters, Infill. Usually, I go with Inner Perimeters/Infill/Outer Perimeter, and I slow down the outer perimeter by 15% of normal print speed.

Flow Rate: The calibrated setting for flow rate, might be expressed as 100%, 100, or 1.0. In my experience, the ideal value is somewhere between 75% and 80% of calibrated. If this give bed adhesion problems, you can modify first layer flow rate and thickness separately from the rest of the print on most slicers.

Temperatures for ABS: Nozzle 230°C-240°C, Bed 110°C, Cooling Fan OFF

Benchy is a great tool for tuning in your printer for best results. If you have not done so already, there is a web site associated with the Benchy model, and you will find lots of resources there. The key to success is to change one value, test, observe, record, repeat. Give each printed model a letter, so you can keep track of what settings you used. Then go back and see what the best results have in common.

So I lowered the layer height from .3 to .28 and it seemed to help a bit especially with the bow part(see pics). I read in an article 25% of your nozzle diameter is a good start (mine being .4).

Mccarman and Floyd, yes I agree that the extruder temp seems low, although its Hatchbox ABS and they claim anywhere from 210-240 temps so I guess technically I'm in range lol. I do think that the thermosistor could be reporting wrong as well since the Hatchbox PLA I was printing was also on the low end of the recommended settings as well.

Jcabrer, I think the print order could be an effective next step to document and test. I was reading an article that was saying one should print in reverse of how you like to print (external first) as the dimensional properties would come out more accurate IE on tolerance dependent parts. How ever when I was printing PLA at .32 layer heights and I kept the same print order (External first), and never had an issue with the drooping scenario I'm currently in.

So I reversed the print order and all the drooping pretty much went away! I'm sure I could do some more tweeking to the settings to produce a better quality how ever. Thanks for all of your input guys!

I know it is contradictive, but try turning on the cooling fan at the 3rd layer. Improved my ABS benchy a TON!