Big nozzle - fast printing

Latest project I'm working on this very moment is to make a Vocano-isch hotend to print with big nozzles. Goal is to print at the same (fast)speed just the same as I do with all my other nozzles, keeping in mind that the perimeter's high quality should remain(as with my smaller nozzles). Right now I can print up to 55mm/s with a Vulcano(clone) and a1.5mm nozzle.
I know, layers with these big nozzles will be better visible, but I don't care at all. With a 2mm nozzle I can print with a whopping 1.6mm layer height, but that's not the point. As long as these layers are perfectly uniform without any strange issues, I'm ok with it.

So the idea is to print faster. The way to go is raise printtemperature. Doing so the heatbreak and heatsink is getting warmer too. Actually to hot. So I need some more cooling on that heatsink.
At the same im I'm planning to cool the visible(narrow) part of the heatbreak(which I made 5mm longer)
I'll be adding a very small heatsink just above the heaterblok. That(thin) heatsink will act as a buffer. Meaning the heat from the heatblok will partially blocked at that point.
There will be 2 heatercartriges installed in that heaterblock(2x40W). One will be installed vertically higher up, side by side with the heatbreak/nozzle. The second one will be sitting horizontally next to the nozzle, just the same as with a regular hotend, very close to the nozzle's tip.
To cool the upper part of that hotend I bought me a 75mm radial fan, busy drawing a duct for it to fit my printer.(so not yet in the drawing)
I always use partscooling during printing, but I do not know if my own system will be powerful enough to do THIS job. I guess I'll have to find out.
Last but not least, I need a silicone sock to cover up the lower part of that hotend, Just the same as a regular E3D-V6 silicone sock. I'll be making that too(that's the easy part).
The difficult part will be finding a good combination to succeed with this challenge...
Another question is : will the 'filament-stepper'(direct drive) and it's drivers keep up with these high speeds..?

To be clear : This XY-carriage is equipped with a fast interchangeable hotend system. It only takes me seconds to swap nozzle(in fact hotend)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2018 05:54AM by chriske.

If you lay down thick plastic very quickly, the extruder is going to come back and lay down the next layer on still-hot plastic. You're going to need more print cooling, I think.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Think so too, that's why I'm a bit concerned about the partscooling myself as I already mentioned in my first post.
But on the other hand, I'm not planning to print small parts with it, so doing the problem is partially solved...;-)

Could try printing chocolat too one day.... THAT would be challenge, isn't it...?

A 2mmx1.6mm track will take forever to cool down. It would cool faster if you print 3.2x1mm ( if possible )

While I waited for my Volcano heater block to arrive, I stacked two regular blocks on a long Volcano nozzle. But I only heated the lower one. Worked almost as good as the original. With two heaters, it would have been like your setup maybe.

I'll have problems enough already printing with a 2mm nozzle with 1.75mm filament..! So I'll first try a 2mm nozzle first(not yet done).
I'm thinking of installing additional fan(s) blowing very softly over the surface of the bed / nozzle height. Together with the parts cooling fan it could improve things, getting rid of that heat a bit faster at nozzle height. It'll be a search to find that exact delicate balance.
Better would be that the heatbed would be heated at the part's location only and only there. Heating the complete surface of the bed to 70°C is not a good idea imo. And no I will not use that blue tape, as a matter of fact I like that perfect glossy first layer..;-)

Overview of my new hotend,

- longer heatblock(longer than a Volcano)
- two heaters 40W cartridges(RAMPS can not handle these two, so I'll have to find another solution, external FET maybe)
- much longer brass nozzle(even longer than a Volcano nozzle)
- longer heatbreak
- higher recess in that heatbreak(better cooling of that recess)
- an extra heatsink(just above the heaterblok) to better split the cold from the hot part.
- 75 mm radial heatsink fan(better overall cooling of the hotend's cool part) This fan will be regulated manually with a potentiometer during testing fase.

Keep in mind this is in fact an exploded view..;-)

I'd start with 3mm filament. Then, when you solved the heat problems and leaking and such, try to go for 1.75mm filament.
One step at a time...

Never mentioned leaking problems...
And the expression 'one step at the time' is one I never use...

At the same time while planning on building that new 300x300 printer(own design), I'm busy designing a fast interchangeable filament system. Purpose is to switch very fast from a 1.75mm filament system to a 2.85mm filament system. Almost done now. (Will probably print my renewed XY-carriage today). I want to use the 1.75mm for regular and precision printing and the 2.85mm system for the printing with these big nozzles. While building that new printer I don't want to miss that opportunity. Logic isn't it.?

BIG nozzle for that hotend.
Length of that 2.0mm nozzle is a whopping 33mm.
Length of that new heatblock is 30mm.
The file is called Volcano, but it's actually not a Volcano at all. It is a heatblock of own design. So I called it S-Volcano ('S' stands for 'super')..;-)
Two systems will be tested. One is a air-cooled(my own) I'll be using a 75mm radial fan and another system with that same heatblock will be water cooled. The watercooled version is made by someone in UK.

We both will test how 'far' and how fast we can go with both our system.

Also made a silicone sock for my large heaterblock. Wanted to make a red one, but it turned out to be pink...
A few snapshots of the procedure.

Red Sock not usable, silicone can not withstand that temperature. So I bought another brand : Silicone-HT.
With this new silicone I can go up to 250°C and peak to 350°C.
In the picture : The one on the left(red) is the old one, right(purple, still in the mold) is the new one.

The mold itself is printed in PETG

This approach was not good. During demolding the silicone sock split.
Up to plan 'C'...

And finally success.!
This time I made a three-part-silicone-sock, third part not in the picture yet. That third part is nothing more than a silicone ring to hold the other two parts tightly together.
After some trimming at the edges it is ready to be used.
Still the printed mold need some minor adjustments to make it absolutely perfect.

hello, what setting do you use for a 1.2 nozzle, cura or slicer ??? first time i use volcano nozzle.
thank you.