I recently bought the Anycubic Ultrabase for my Anet A8 3d printer. I have heard great things about it, so I figured that it is worth the money. The outcome was very disappointing. I print with PLA. At a 200-degree nozzle temp and a 60-degree bed temp, the outcome was horrific. Items would come off easily mid print, and if they didn't, they would warp. So, I increased the bed temp to 70, though that was a bit better, items were still warping and coming off. Any help?

We've discussed print-surfaces a lot in the past, but I don't recognize anyone mentioning Ultrabase.
Is it new on the market? Does Anycubic suggest any preparation/cleaning procedures before print?
Is it meant for PLA? ( some sheets are developed for ABS )
Did you try to print on a cold bed?

Here is the Ultrabase. It is relatively new. I’ve looked everywhere and there are no recommendations to clean the surface. It is ment for all types of materials. There is a thin layer of something at the top of the surface that is activated when the surface is heated up. It recommends a temp of 50 - 70 degrees. This is why I have not tried printing with it cold.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2018 09:33AM by Danielmaslia.

Hi,

personally I sweet a lot with bed adhesion questions. It looks like your magic plate is not magic as it should.

My advice is the following :

take a 1.5 mm thick aluminum plate, recover it with a constant layer of wood glue, let it dry until it is totally transparent. Then before printing, activate it with a isopropanol, it comes sticky.

it is just perfect for print adhesion.

Then after printing, to remove the pieces, if they are small you can then take them off by hand, if you have big surfaces you have just to humidify the plate with middle warm water and wait 10'. The glue is coming white and peel off very easily. At this moment you can take your precious pieces.

This is the best effective solution I've found.

Best Regards

Alain

Alain,
I appreciate your response, but I really want to still use my ultrabase. I spent a decent amount of money on it, and it seems like as flag ship as it is, something went wrong. The main purpose of this forum is so that I can assure that it isn’t user error, and maybe get another one. This heated bed seems to have a really good reputation.

some details here [www.anycubic3d.com]

clean the surface with a high % IPA and print at a temp around 45-50 deg for pla.

Quote
obewan
some details here [www.anycubic3d.com]

clean the surface with a high % IPA and print at a temp around 45-50 deg for pla.

Thanks. I have already cleaned it with high percent IPA, but wouldn’t a lower temperature make the bed adhesion worse? As I understand it, ABS is more susceptible to warping. And that requires a higher temperature. If I am facing warping issues at 70°, then shouldn’t I, if anything, raise the temp?

I mainly print single wall objects like 3d planes
I find too high a bed temp with PLA can make the lower layers stay soft and can squash under the weight of the part,
and too low a temp can have poor adhesion, there seems to be a narrow range where it is just right.

Hi,

I understand

are you at the right distance when you make your first layer ?

Do you overextrude a bit for the first layer & go slower ? (150%) To start a good print it is important that you press the material on the bed during the first layer and take the time for it. it helps a lot.

According to me, with good adhesion condition and PLA you don't need a heated bed.

I just received mine Anycubic Ultrabase. Before I had a aluminum heated bed and used blue painters tape and used that for 5 years. The adhesion for PLA was perfect at 50°C.
So after installing the Anycubic Ultrabase with the coated glass sheet and after leveling everything the adhesion is super crappy. It's terrible. It's from hell.
Interestingly an almost acient method (blue tape) is far superior to the latest trend produced in chinese junk factories. The moment someone in far east discovered that you could make more money by selling pricier and self-devloped trash in the 3D print sector was the moment we all were doomed. I miss the times when they just plain copied everything instead of developing their own trash.
I wouldn't be suprised if the the coating is just plain simple PU varnish.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2019 12:10PM by ianmcmill.

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Ceiling fan was causing my problems. lol

If you throw everything out, Blue Painters Tape, Ultrabase,Borosilicate Glass, hair spray etc....... and cut a piece of 1/8" Lexan to fit your bed, scuff it up with 3M scrubbie, you can print PLA warp free with a bed temp of 35C.
clamp the Lexan to the aluminum base with paper clasp's. Print directly on the surface with no special treatment. When the print is complete simply remove the Lexan and Flex to release part. if your part has very little contact area to the base increase the bed temp 10 to 20C.
Lexan is much lighter than the glass, allowing faster printing speeds. I print PETG Cold with no warping and the part release is easy. I print all my parts directly on this surface with no rafts. You can probably buy the Lexan at you local hardware store for very little money.
Try it you wont want to print on anything else.