Printing Nylon / PC on Repraps?

Hi all,

Anyone working with these materials? What are your favorite bed and chamber temps?

Will be looking at material supplier data too, just hoped there may be others working on the coal face!

Thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2018 10:26PM by WesBrooks.

Ok, from preliminary look around the following eems a reasonable guide.

Nylon
250C Hot end
90C Bed
Enclosure Recommended.

PC
300C Hot end
135C Bed
Enclosure essential.

It's looking like nylon is do-able without a major think on the machine so long as it has an all metal hotend. PC would require a new bed heater and a serious think about the machine to ensure all parts are fine upto 60ish ambient - ie no PLA, but PETG should be ok. Looking like the lader is PLA, PETG, Nylon, PC - printing new machine parts each time.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2018 10:42PM by WesBrooks.

Material suppliers naturally tend towards presenting running their materials as stress free as possible, and so I'm unlikely to read on their blurb: "Won't print extrusion brackets with 5mm sectons for love or money!".

With that in mind I'd still welcome stories ftom the coal face.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2018 10:41PM by WesBrooks.

I have used nylon 12, which I got from rigidink. Used 260 degrees first layer, then 255. Adhesion was a problem, but rigidink suggested Tufnol whale, which worked well. Cut a 250 mm round for my delta bed, and fixed to the glass bed with Swiss clips. Had the bed at 90 degrees, but could do more work on that, because some prints stuck too well - put the Tufnol in the freezer for a while to help free them. The other thing is to keep the filament really dry - I improvised a dry box to print from.

It's been a while that I've printed Nylon (12 I think). My settings are:
Hotend: 265*C
Bed: 110*C
Print at slower speeds like 30mm/s
First layer: 15mm/s

I used PVA glue (normal 'school' glue) which seems to work well, although on glass it can stick a bit too well. Sometimes a piece of glass tears out of the plate and still stuck to the print.
I now use water based varnish, which is about the same material but is easier to apply a coating and remove with water for a new coat. I let it dry and harden overnight. I suspect Nylon should print on it equally well.

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Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]

Just done a bit more nylon 12 printing, and found that shiny Tufnol whale works well at 110deg. I had previously lightly sanded the Tufnol, but this makes it too sticky. The other point is that you need minimal part cooling.