Is ABS warping affected at all by the hot end temp?

I'm using brims, heated bed, etc, etc.

But I am just wondering if I should try adjusting the hot end temp at all, as a parameter.

My thought is: perhaps by extruding as cold as possible, there is less of a temperature difference, which would lead to less warping.

My question here is *purely* about how hot end temp affects warping, if at all, just to understand that aspect.

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foul_owl

My thought is: perhaps by extruding as cold as possible, there is less of a temperature difference, which would lead to less warping.

Yes. This is true for any solid material.

Shrinkage is the cause of 3D prints warping.
Warping happens because of the differential in temperature between layers.
When a hot layer is extruded on top of a cold layer it begins to shrink, and starts compressing the layer underneath, warping it.

How to avoid by having a headed bed at 100C helps, Printing in a heated enclosure is more help full.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/01/2019 05:38PM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

In most cases PETG can be used instead of ABS and doesn't have these problems plus no bad smell.
Without a heated chamber, I only could make small parts in ABS

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/02/2019 02:11AM by MKSA.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

I agree with MKSA on this one.
I had to put up breeze walls and 2/3 cover my printer with a black trash bag to keep a high enough temperature in my printer volume to print ABS objects of any decent size from warping and pulling off the bed - no matter what bed adhesion I used.

Now I use PETG, stronger, more stable than ABS and it doesn't stink...

DLC

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Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

I have one printer that is pretty much dedicated for ABS printing. It's mostly enclosed, and I print with it mostly covered with a towel to keep out air drafts, and keep it warm inside. Even then, there's a limit to how large of complex I can make a part. My leadscrew printer is set up for, and has only had PETg through it, because it's more dimensionally stable. ABS has a relatively high shrinkage rate, which results in it having a relatively large problem with warping as it cools. This is why we go to such lengths for bed adhesion. This problem isn't zero with PETg either, but it's less, which means less trouble.|

To answer the question though, yes, hot end temperature has an effect, but even extruding at as low a temperature as is possible, the overall range isn't that much, and it's still got a large shrinkage rate going back to room temperature, even over a 100°C bed, so the difference between extruding at 215°C and 235°C isn't going to have MUCH of an effect. Maybe it's enough effect though in some cases, just be aware that a lower extrude temperature will start to affect layer adhesion, too.

Good luck with finding a solution, There are things that ABS is the right material for, and some things that can be printed in different material which has less trouble with warping, so using a different material isn't always the answer. It can be a decent solution where the material choice isn't important, for whatever reason. I make things which I intend to fuse together using solvent welding. ABS is a very good material for that, since acetone is cheap and readily available. If I have parts that I want to have the layers at certain angles to each other for structural strength without relying on inter-layer adhesion, ABS makes a good material, or I want multiple colours welded together, it works nicely.

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MBot3D Printer
MakerBot clone Kit from Amazon
Added heated bed.

Leadscrew self-built printer (in progress)
Duet Wifi, Precision Piezo parts

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Only thing to bear in mind is the lower the nozzle temperature the less strength your part will have. That may or may not matter to you. Also the glass temperautre of ABS is around 105° dropping your nozzle temp from, say, 220° to 200° isn't going to help much with warping. Best thing, as already suggested, is to enclose the printer and keep the chamber hot.

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Sebastian

Flash Creator X
Creality CR-X
Anycubic Photon

ABS extrusion temp has hardly any effect on shrinkage.

All you need to get is a good adhesion to bed that's not so easy with ABS. Room temperature is also important, but not as important.

I've been able to print solid ABS with a thickness of 4 mm without any enclosure, and got my bed broken because so good adhesion i got. But that was with the resin Elix ABS HI. I don't know of a filament maker which uses this resin but I wonder if Smartfil ABS high impact is made with it.

A cube 35x35x12 mm in solid ABS (100% infill) . Can you beat this?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2019 12:24PM by sliceheart.