Flex 45 bed temperature

I recently bought a roll of Flex45 from RS components. The datasheet says it should be printed on a bed temperature of +-100 degrees. My first print went well with a bed temperature of 80 degrees, but have failed to get more than 10 layers since. Does anyone have a bed temperature that works reliably? I'm pretty sure there's a misprint on the data sheet as +-100 degrees is a very big tolerance and I am sure it won't work well at 100 degrees below freezing!

I think they mean ~100 degrees Celsius. It would be kind of weird to interpret it the way you do to be honest.

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

I'm used to seeing things written as for example 80 +-10 degrees meaning 70 - 90 degrees, which lead me to think it was an error, it even says it can be printed without a heated bed, so to specify the bed must be ~100 degrees goes against that too.

In what way does the print fail when you go above 10 layers?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I've tried a number of settings, but bed adhesion is the common problem. A raft starts peeling up at the corners, skirts and brims start warping from the left side (always the left, despite the print being symetrical). Managed to get it to print eventually by turning the print speed right up to get it done as quick as possible before the adhesion fails, once it has got high enough, I have had to use a hot glue gun to stick the corners to the bed. The result is not good, and squeezing the finished print makes noises suggesting the layers are not stuck well internally, but salvageable.

Had no issues at all with a sample of TPU from ebay on low bed temperature and slow print speeds which printed really nicely. I certainly won't be buying Flex45 again.

That sounds like the common problems encountered when printing ABS, which also needs about 100C bed temperature. The solution for ABS is to print in a warm chamber. It's not always necessary to heat the chamber, I found that putting 2 plastic bags over the printer kept enough heat in from the bed heater to solve bed adhesion and warping problems.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
That sounds like the common problems encountered when printing ABS, which also needs about 100C bed temperature. The solution for ABS is to print in a warm chamber. It's not always necessary to heat the chamber, I found that putting 2 plastic bags over the printer kept enough heat in from the bed heater to solve bed adhesion and warping problems.

My printer is open and I am having trouble keeping the hot end hot enough with the cooling fan running at 100%, my next task is to go to Ikea for a couple of Lack tables and order some plexiglass, though might go with some MDF in place of the plexi glass on the back and sides to improve the insulation.

If you mean that your print cooling fan is at 100% (not their end heatsink cooling fan), then try running it at a lower setting or off. PLA needs a lot of cooling, but most other filaments don't.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].