Starting ormerod print/setup March 18, 2020 04:35PM |
Registered: 4 years ago Posts: 7 |
Re: Starting ormerod print/setup March 18, 2020 04:54PM |
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Re: Starting ormerod print/setup March 19, 2020 01:15AM |
Registered: 4 years ago Posts: 7 |
Quote
the_digital_dentist
1) over extrusion. Steps/mm should be set based on the printed line width- i.e. plastic coming out of the extruder, not plastic going in. See: [reprap.org]
2) layer shifting is usually due to acceleration and/or jerk being set too high, though a sloppy loose belt could cause it, too.
3) the blobby vertical post is because it is very small and the plastic doesn't have time to cool before the nozzle comes back and dumps more molten plastic on top of it. That "calibration" part is a poor design for that reason. You need to give the extruder something else to do while the plastic cools. Add a part (or 2 or 3) to the print that is the same height as the post and put it a few cm away on the bed. Turn on print cooling fan if you're printing PLA.
Re: Starting ormerod print/setup March 19, 2020 07:34AM |
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Re: Starting ormerod print/setup April 15, 2020 12:52PM |
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Re: Starting ormerod print/setup April 16, 2020 03:52PM |
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Re: Starting ormerod print/setup April 16, 2020 04:42PM |
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Re: Starting ormerod print/setup April 17, 2020 07:55AM |
Registered: 4 years ago Posts: 7 |
Quote
G3DBuilder
Your Cube has some stringing, 200C seems a little hot for PLA. Try turning your extrusion temp down to 170 -180C. Some PLA's can print at 200C+ and some I have had to turn down to 160C.
If this is a Bowden setup you should have plenty of retraction, but not too much as you will pull the molten filament up into the cold zone where it will solidify and jam. For a direct drive Extruder I usually have ~1mm retraction, and yes I have used too much retraction and plugged the cold section myself.
Just my experience