Warpping

New to slic3r and I seem to have most of the settings down. When I print a 50mm x 50mm x 20mm part I get one corner of the part that pulls up off the print bed.
I'm not sure if that is a slic3r issue and can change with some setting or if that is some other problem. The part starts out flat and sticks to the print bed nice. once the
print gets to and 10mm high that one corner starts to come off the print bed. What can I adjust to try and correct that issue?

Thanks

ABS or other material?
Make sure the bed is flat, leveled, zeroed, and clean before printing. If it's a sharp corner, round it. If you can't round it, use a brim or raft when you print. If your printer isn't enclosed, make an enclosure. Print the first layer slow and thick.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Use PETG filament.

Sorry, I'm printing with PLA. The bed is level. I used a brim and it did help. I still get a little lift on one side. Could that side be getting cooled faster then the other side. Should I turn off the bed heat after the first layer?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2015 12:02PM by davidf01.

You might try raising the bed temperature a bit. I wouldn't recommend shutting it off or the whole print may break loose. This is one of the problems with glass plates (thermal insulators) on the print bed. A glass plate will have uneven temperature over its surface with some spots cooler than others. We looked at the glass bed on a Taz with a FLIR camera recently and found 20C variation in temperature across its surface even after allowing it to warm up and stabilize.

The term "level" implies the existence of a planar surface. A bent bed plate can't be leveled because it isn't planar. Many printers use four screws to "level" the print bed. It doesn't work very well- it mostly bends the bed and undercarriage plates. With enough tweaking and glue stick, hairspray, ABS juice, etc., you might be able to get it to print OK, but with three leveling screws it's a lot easier to get prints to stick over most of the bed surface.

If you have a cooling fan blowing on the part it may be that there's too much air hitting one side of the print, causing it to shrink more and faster.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

One common cause is draughts. Make sure that there are no draughts hitting the print, which includes air blowing from any cooling fans on the printer (which should be directed only at the nozzle, with no backwash hitting the side of the print). Just opening and closing a door while printing can cause a warp.

One technique is to set Slic3r to print a full-height skirt ("Print Settings" > Skirt and Brim" > Skirt height"). This creates a wall around the print that helps keep draughts out. Another technique is to cover the printer with a plastic bin-bag (but make sure it doesn't overheat).

Dave

Quote
dmould
One common cause is draughts. Make sure that there are no draughts hitting the print, which includes air blowing from any cooling fans on the printer (which should be directed only at the nozzle, with no backwash hitting the side of the print). Just opening and closing a door while printing can cause a warp.

One technique is to set Slic3r to print a full-height skirt ("Print Settings" > Skirt and Brim" > Skirt height"). This creates a wall around the print that helps keep draughts out. Another technique is to cover the printer with a plastic bin-bag (but make sure it doesn't overheat).

Dave

It shouldn't matter for PLA, where you want the part to be cooled down as fast as possible.