Missed the Indiegogo campaign, any chance I can still get a kit?

I'm new to the RepRap community and after looking into the various machines out there I'd really like to get my mitts on a Tantillus. Is there any chance I can still order the full kit from you? Or I can order the OTS parts myself if just supplying the custom parts would be easier for you.

Thanks for the amazing work you've done! I'm just awestruck at the resolution you're achieving with your machine

If you want any help making the version with the larger build area I'd be interested in putting in some time. I'm a ME and have been working in product development for 7 years doing mostly medical devices. I'm pretty handy with CAD and mechanical design in general.

Thanks for the kind words.

I will be having a very short Indiegogo campaign for the Vancouver Maker Faire this coming weekend where you will be able to purchase one. After that I will be opening a webstore but not until all the Indiegogo campaign perks have been delivered and the instructions are complete.

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Great, I'll keep an eye out. Thank you!

Would it be possible to make an 'other continent' kit with just the imperial parts in it?
Could save me some time trying to source it

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Would it be possible to make an 'other continent'
> kit with just the imperial parts in it?
> Could save me some time trying to source it

Give me a list of what you think that would include and I will see about getting it set up.

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I think this would be a nice set for something like this;

2 - 5/16" x 220mm Drill rods
2 - 5/16" x 197mm Drill rods
1 - 5/16" x 22mm Drill rod
1 - 1/4" x 180mm Threaded rod
4 - 1/4" Hex nuts
4 - 5/16" Hex nuts
3 - 1/4" Flat washers

The rest seems metric? I'm not sure what you mean with ' 10-32 hex nuts ' but I assume its M10?

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I think this would be a nice set for something
> like this;
>
> 2 - 5/16" x 220mm Drill rods
> 2 - 5/16" x 197mm Drill rods
> 1 - 5/16" x 22mm Drill rod
> 1 - 1/4" x 180mm Threaded rod
> 4 - 1/4" Hex nuts
> 4 - 5/16" Hex nuts
> 3 - 1/4" Flat washers
>
> The rest seems metric? I'm not sure what you mean
> with ' 10-32 hex nuts ' but I assume its M10?

No, #10 UTF threads [en.wikipedia.org]

Honestly the only thing that is Metric right now are the 8mm rods, LM8uu / LM8suu and the M3's for the motors. And odds are the 8mm rods I am supplying are of higher tolerance then those available in most places (7.99mm).

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The 5 day Maker Faire campaign is now live at [www.indiegogo.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2012 01:13PM by Sublime.

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Cool .. and not so cool

You are using _3_ different standard for your material

nobody in the world (beside those two small countries where you are from) can build this .. ffs

He's only using 2 standards, the #10/ #8 etc are the way small threads (< 1/4 inch) are designated for imperial threads etc.

Unless you are damn lucky, it's difficult to locally source metric parts in the US and locally they are usually dramatically more expensive than their imperial equivalents.
If you're ordering something online, it's a lot easier and the prices are closer to parity, but when you're designing something, it requires a degree of fore thought or a large enough collection of metric hardware that at least I lack.

The reverse is likely true outside the US..

Polygonhell Wrote:
> The reverse is likely true outside the US..

Which is why (almost) the entire world now uses metric ..

Quote

The reverse is likely true outside the US

I don't think so. I don't think you can get imperial at all in most countries unless you import from the US.

In the UK we can get BA and Whitworth from specialists, but I don't think that is the same as the US imperial system.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2012 12:05PM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Polygonhell Wrote:
> > The reverse is likely true outside the US..
>
> Which is why (almost) the entire world now uses
> metric ..


Sure, I'm English I jast happen to live in the US, I hate the Imperial system as much as the next guy, I don't think you'll find even many Americans defending it, but there are certain realities when you're trying to build something and want to be able to source hardware locally. Which is likely why Sublime chose the hardware he did.

For point of reference I can't buy any metric hardware under 5mm locally and even then the set of sizes is extremely limited (I can't buy metric jam nuts at all) and extremely expensive.

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Cool .. and not so cool
>
> You are using _3_ different standard for your
> material
>
> nobody in the world (beside those two small
> countries where you are from) can build this ..
> ffs

Like Polygonhell said it is only two standards (Metric and Imperial UTS).

And small country? Canada is the second largest country on earth only second to Russia.

But yeah if I had designed it to use metric each kit would cost about double what it does now. I would have to special order all nuts and bolts. Worst part is we use the metric system in Canada but our hardware suppliers are all U.S. companies so we only sell Imperial hardware. With that said most of the nuts and bolts should be replaceable with an equivalent metric bolt and nut.

Edit: So little sleep = so many typos

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2012 01:16PM by Sublime.

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How easily will it be to extend the Tantillus (ie. larger print area)?
Would it just require longer rods and wires?

PS. I'm a complete noob when it comes to 3D printing. If I get one, it will be my first.

somanyquestions Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How easily will it be to extend the Tantillus (ie.
> larger print area)?
> Would it just require longer rods and wires?
>
> PS. I'm a complete noob when it comes to 3D
> printing. If I get one, it will be my first.

More or less yes.

The case needs to be wider and the rods need to be longer.

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Sublime Wrote:
> With that said most of the nuts and bolts should be replaceable
> with an equivalent metric bolt and nut.

I'm just printing all the parts and gonna hunt for metals afterwards.
There are some parts that really should imperial right? Like the rods that are held with 608 bearings ...
Could you tell me which they are / provide that kit i talked about earlier?

--
buZz

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sublime Wrote:
> > With that said most of the nuts and bolts should
> be replaceable
> > with an equivalent metric bolt and nut.
>
> I'm just printing all the parts and gonna hunt for
> metals afterwards.
> There are some parts that really should imperial
> right? Like the rods that are held with 608
> bearings ...
> Could you tell me which they are / provide that
> kit i talked about earlier?
>
> --
> buZz

The 8mm rods that Nophead has are small enough to fit through the 608's. The 8mm I am using is really precise (8mm +/- 0.013) and will not fit through.

So maybe take a pair of calipers or a bearing with you and see if they will fit.

Also my 5/16" measure 7.92 +/- 0.013


buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I think this would be a nice set for something
> like this;
>
> 2 - 5/16" x 220mm Drill rods See if the 8mm in your area fit the 608 bearings
> 2 - 5/16" x 197mm Drill rods See if the 8mm in your area fit the 608 bearings
> 1 - 5/16" x 22mm Drill rod See if the 8mm in your area fit the 608 bearings
> 1 - 1/4" x 180mm Threaded rod This is the Z lead screw and it will only require one part to be remodelled. If you can provide me a technical drawing of a 6mm nut I will remodel it.
> 4 - 1/4" Hex nuts Don't need them if we convert the lead screw to 6mm
> 4 - 5/16" Hex nuts Two of these are for the hobbed bolt which you can make out of a 8mm bolt and the other two have the threads drilled out to fit in the upper gears and have set screws threaded into them from the sides. If you can provide a technical drawing of a 8mm nut I can remodel it too.
> 3 - 1/4" Flat washers these actually have an 8mm hole so you can use any washer with an 8mm hole.

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Sublime Wrote:
> > 1 - 1/4" x 180mm Threaded rod This is the Z
> lead screw and it will only require one part to be
> remodelled. If you can provide me a technical
> drawing of a 6mm nut I will remodel it.
> > 4 - 5/16" Hex nuts Two of these are for the
> hobbed bolt which you can make out of a 8mm bolt
> and the other two have the threads drilled out to
> fit in the upper gears and have set screws
> threaded into them from the sides. If you can
> provide a technical drawing of a 8mm nut I can
> remodel it too.

Would this help? [www.metrication.com]

I think i can get 8mm rods with different tolerances, so should be able to find some that fit 608 bearings

As I still have a spare hyena (the hobbed bolt from shop.arcol.hu) , could I use that as hobbed bolt for tantillus?

I've been following this for quite a while and I'm glad I've got another chance to build a Tantillus without major parts scrounging. A few questions first:

-I'm planning to get the print-everything-yourself kit, and I see little mention anywhere about the upper and lower bed. Those should be easy enough to cut and drill by hand, right?

-Is there any reason a Sanguinololu wouldn't work instead of RAMPS?

-I have finished printing three of the base pieces (base_1 to base_3) and I'm getting about 1mm of warp at the ends and in the corner. Will this screw things up when assembled if the rest of the pieces come out with similar warp?

Thanks

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Would this help?
> [www.metrication.com]
> ml
>
> I think i can get 8mm rods with different
> tolerances, so should be able to find some that
> fit 608 bearings

Thanks I will have a look over the next week or so. We just had a our local maker faire this weekend and i have a trip to take this week as well.

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buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> As I still have a spare hyena (the hobbed bolt
> from shop.arcol.hu) , could I use that as hobbed
> bolt for tantillus?

No it is not long enough. I have a couple of mini 8mm id ones that I do plan to modify the extruder to fit at some point.

The hobbed bolt needs to be 4-1/4" (110mm).

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pokey9000 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've been following this for quite a while and I'm
> glad I've got another chance to build a Tantillus
> without major parts scrounging. A few questions
> first:
>
> -I'm planning to get the print-everything-yourself
> kit, and I see little mention anywhere about the
> upper and lower bed. Those should be easy enough
> to cut and drill by hand, right?

Yes the svg images are available in the laser cut folder of the github repo. Just print them out and glue them to a piece of wood and cut around them.

>
> -Is there any reason a Sanguinololu wouldn't work
> instead of RAMPS?

The laser cut case has mounting holes for both RAMPS and Sanguinololu but the Sanguinololu does not have enough memory to run Marlin with the LCD and SD. You can replace the 644 with a 1280(1284?). Have a look at the Emaker huxley repo for the info needed to use the 128 in the Sanguinololu

>
> -I have finished printing three of the base pieces
> (base_1 to base_3) and I'm getting about 1mm of
> warp at the ends and in the corner. Will this
> screw things up when assembled if the rest of the
> pieces come out with similar warp?

The base no. The upper four do need to be really good as the bearings mount inside the corners and you want it square.

>
> Thanks

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Sublime Wrote:
> The hobbed bolt needs to be 4-1/4" (110mm).

Do you have a technical drawing for this?
Arcol is willing to do custom work

Sublime Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> pokey9000 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > -I have finished printing three of the base
> pieces
> > (base_1 to base_3) and I'm getting about 1mm of
> > warp at the ends and in the corner. Will this
> > screw things up when assembled if the rest of
> the
> > pieces come out with similar warp?
>
> The base no. The upper four do need to be really
> good as the bearings mount inside the corners and
> you want it square.
>

I managed to get base_4 to print perfectly flat last night on heated blue tape and slic3r's new brim feature. Not sure if it was moving from hot kapton to hot blue tape or the brim that did it, but I'll experiment when printing the middle pieces.

One more question:

Is the hobbed bolt or the carriage middle piece included in the hardware kit, or do I need to go for that separate perk?

buZztiaan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sublime Wrote:
> > The hobbed bolt needs to be 4-1/4" (110mm).
>
> Do you have a technical drawing for this?
> Arcol is willing to do custom work


Give me a couple of days and I will try and get a proper one made up. Right now I just install the bolts in an extruder and use a felt pen to mark exactly where the filament hole is.

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pokey9000 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is the hobbed bolt or the carriage middle piece
> included in the hardware kit, or do I need to go
> for that separate perk?

The hobbed bolt is included and I think I will include the extruder groove mount plate too for everyone.

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