Clarification of parts required (and sourcing)
Posted by Yonderboy
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Re: Clarification of parts required (and sourcing) July 10, 2012 01:27AM |
Yonderboy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Your Bill of Materials on the Tantillus.org site
> breaks down the sections as such:
>
> Bolts/Nuts
> Bearings
> Rods
> Miscellaneous
> Printed Parts
> Electronics
>
> The initial assumption I made was that the items
> under "Bolts/Nuts", "Bearings", and "Rods" were
> all intended to be included as part of the
> aforementioned Hardware Kit. Possibly the items
> under "Miscellaneous" too, but I wasn't sure if I
> needed to source out my own 65lb test braided
> fishing line. Is that included?
Yes it includes everything in the Miscellaneous section.
>
> Obviously the "Acrylic Parts Kit" includes all the
> custom laser-cut pieces, and in my case I'm
> responsible for all my own "Printed Parts".
Yes
> That leaves just the items under "Electronics".
> Most of those are fairly well-described, but a
> couple are less clear to me. Here's the list off
> your site... perhaps you can indulge me as I
> request clarification and sourcing recommendations
> on some of the parts. See my notes in italics
> below...
>
> Recommended electronics
> 4 - Nema 17 stepper motors (max length of 40mm
> recommended)
> I caught someone's link to "tony34306" on Ebay.
> It seems like I can grab the needed motors from
> him easily enough at a good price. I gather that
> the driveshafts need to be free of those standard
> pulley teeth, but it sounds like tony34306 is glad
> to remove those for us.
Yes those are good motors and he can remove the pulleys for you. Just be sure to print the gears marked 4mm (not 5mm). The kits are including 42BYGHW609
> 4 - Stepstick or pololu stepper drivers
> 1 - RAMPS shield
> 1 - Arduino mega 2560
> Seems like there's might be a few places I could
> grab these parts, but they all seem to come nicely
> bundled... (either assembled or not) from
> [ultimachine.com]. Is that a reasonable
> source? Would anyone recommend elsewhere?
Yes I recommend RepRapDicount.com or his Ebay store.
> 1 - 16 x 2 LCD panel (optional)
> Lots of options out there (Makershed, Adafruit,
> etc...), all seem pretty comparable
> 1 - 20 position encoder (optional)
> I confess to having a tough time clearly
> understanding what this part is or where to find
> it. Anyone have a good link?
Ebay and Suntekstore have both items for a good price but when buying cheap china made parts you may want to buy extra in case they are DOA.
The encoder is a rotary click encoder with 20 positions. Like described here [tommyc-reprap.blogspot.ca] except we want one with a panel mount nut and at least 7mm of threads like:
> 1 - J-head Mk-IV-B
> [hotends.com], obviously... is there even
> another source, or is that it?
He is the manufacturer of them and does list other places you can buy them but I would rather support him directly. I actually recommend using a Mk-Vb (I will update the page).
> 1 - 90 watt power supply (15v @ 5/6A)
> Seems like a large variety of laptop power
> supplies are pretty close to exactly this spec.
> How bang-on does the amperage have to be? Any
> recommendations as to a good source?
I am using Toshiba compatible ones that have a Q-type connector on the cable which is a little hard to get the matching socket side. My first two prototypes and my Prusa run off of 12v @ 5.6A power supplies but that does tax them on heat up. I went with the 15v to increase heat up speed while not killing the regulator on the Arduino. The extra wattage was for safety reasons.
> 1 - SD card break out board or SDramps
> (optional)
> Again [ultimachine.com] seems like a good
> source, unless someone recommends somewhere
> else...
Again I would go with RepRapDiscount
> 1 - Female barrel connector for power supply
> connection (optional)
> Seems pretty standard... any electronics joint
If you use the same power supply as me it is really hard to find the Q-type connector. For most people self sourcing the kit I think it would be easier to cut the end off the cord and use the connector on the RAMPS board.
> 2 - 50mm or 40mm fans
> likewise, standard electronics or computer supply
> should serve
Easiest part to get.
As for time line of the Hardware and Acrylic panel kit I am expecting to have them end of this week or beginning of next. That would put shipping around the week of the 23rd. There will be a proper update on all of that in a few days on Indiegogo and my blog.
-------------------------------------------------------
> Your Bill of Materials on the Tantillus.org site
> breaks down the sections as such:
>
> Bolts/Nuts
> Bearings
> Rods
> Miscellaneous
> Printed Parts
> Electronics
>
> The initial assumption I made was that the items
> under "Bolts/Nuts", "Bearings", and "Rods" were
> all intended to be included as part of the
> aforementioned Hardware Kit. Possibly the items
> under "Miscellaneous" too, but I wasn't sure if I
> needed to source out my own 65lb test braided
> fishing line. Is that included?
Yes it includes everything in the Miscellaneous section.
>
> Obviously the "Acrylic Parts Kit" includes all the
> custom laser-cut pieces, and in my case I'm
> responsible for all my own "Printed Parts".
Yes
> That leaves just the items under "Electronics".
> Most of those are fairly well-described, but a
> couple are less clear to me. Here's the list off
> your site... perhaps you can indulge me as I
> request clarification and sourcing recommendations
> on some of the parts. See my notes in italics
> below...
>
> Recommended electronics
> 4 - Nema 17 stepper motors (max length of 40mm
> recommended)
> I caught someone's link to "tony34306" on Ebay.
> It seems like I can grab the needed motors from
> him easily enough at a good price. I gather that
> the driveshafts need to be free of those standard
> pulley teeth, but it sounds like tony34306 is glad
> to remove those for us.
Yes those are good motors and he can remove the pulleys for you. Just be sure to print the gears marked 4mm (not 5mm). The kits are including 42BYGHW609
> 4 - Stepstick or pololu stepper drivers
> 1 - RAMPS shield
> 1 - Arduino mega 2560
> Seems like there's might be a few places I could
> grab these parts, but they all seem to come nicely
> bundled... (either assembled or not) from
> [ultimachine.com]. Is that a reasonable
> source? Would anyone recommend elsewhere?
Yes I recommend RepRapDicount.com or his Ebay store.
> 1 - 16 x 2 LCD panel (optional)
> Lots of options out there (Makershed, Adafruit,
> etc...), all seem pretty comparable
> 1 - 20 position encoder (optional)
> I confess to having a tough time clearly
> understanding what this part is or where to find
> it. Anyone have a good link?
Ebay and Suntekstore have both items for a good price but when buying cheap china made parts you may want to buy extra in case they are DOA.
The encoder is a rotary click encoder with 20 positions. Like described here [tommyc-reprap.blogspot.ca] except we want one with a panel mount nut and at least 7mm of threads like:
> 1 - J-head Mk-IV-B
> [hotends.com], obviously... is there even
> another source, or is that it?
He is the manufacturer of them and does list other places you can buy them but I would rather support him directly. I actually recommend using a Mk-Vb (I will update the page).
> 1 - 90 watt power supply (15v @ 5/6A)
> Seems like a large variety of laptop power
> supplies are pretty close to exactly this spec.
> How bang-on does the amperage have to be? Any
> recommendations as to a good source?
I am using Toshiba compatible ones that have a Q-type connector on the cable which is a little hard to get the matching socket side. My first two prototypes and my Prusa run off of 12v @ 5.6A power supplies but that does tax them on heat up. I went with the 15v to increase heat up speed while not killing the regulator on the Arduino. The extra wattage was for safety reasons.
> 1 - SD card break out board or SDramps
> (optional)
> Again [ultimachine.com] seems like a good
> source, unless someone recommends somewhere
> else...
Again I would go with RepRapDiscount
> 1 - Female barrel connector for power supply
> connection (optional)
> Seems pretty standard... any electronics joint
If you use the same power supply as me it is really hard to find the Q-type connector. For most people self sourcing the kit I think it would be easier to cut the end off the cord and use the connector on the RAMPS board.
> 2 - 50mm or 40mm fans
> likewise, standard electronics or computer supply
> should serve
Easiest part to get.
As for time line of the Hardware and Acrylic panel kit I am expecting to have them end of this week or beginning of next. That would put shipping around the week of the 23rd. There will be a proper update on all of that in a few days on Indiegogo and my blog.
| FFF Settings Calculator | Gcode post processors | Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog |
| Tantillus.org | Mini Printable Lathe | How NOT to install a Pololu driver |
|
Re: Clarification of parts required (and sourcing) July 10, 2012 10:40PM |
They do not have a part number on them and I have used a few different ones and they all worked the same.
NO lever or roller because it faces downwards and the lever will jam.
Switch with holder:
Switch measures 19.5mm long:
Switch measures 9mm high:
Switch measures 6mm wide:
Its held in by the clamping force of the single bolt that holds it on the smooth rod (dab of hot glue to hold in during installation) :
Mounted on the Z smooth rod facing down:
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2012 10:44PM by Sublime.
NO lever or roller because it faces downwards and the lever will jam.
Switch with holder:
Switch measures 19.5mm long:
Switch measures 9mm high:
Switch measures 6mm wide:
Its held in by the clamping force of the single bolt that holds it on the smooth rod (dab of hot glue to hold in during installation) :
Mounted on the Z smooth rod facing down:
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2012 10:44PM by Sublime.
| FFF Settings Calculator | Gcode post processors | Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog |
| Tantillus.org | Mini Printable Lathe | How NOT to install a Pololu driver |
|
Re: Clarification of parts required (and sourcing) August 21, 2012 05:32AM |
So I ultimately bought my my rotary encoder and LCD screen from Suntek Store (I bought lost of extras too, just in case). But I had a couple more questions:
These images are of my rotary encoders:
It was supposed to be a 10-pack, but they only shipped me 7 of them. Jerks!
Also, try as I might, I couldn't find any documentation of what the pinouts would be. Would the pinouts on a part like this be somewhat standard? Sublime, do you have any clear documentation on how you wired yours? And also perhaps some clearer documentation on where it connects on the RAMPS board?
Also, my threads are exactly 7mm, as recommended, but I can't quite make it fit through the hole in the acrylic and engage with the nut. I think it's due to this little metal nib, circled below.
I gather that's there to prevent the encoder from just free-spinning in the hole if it gets a little loose... however we don't have a spot for that "nib" to go, and it's preventing me from having the thread-length to secure the encoder. Would I be best to just file it down to get it out of my way, and then just keep the encoder tightened down as much as possible?
Finally... regarding the LCD screen, here are images of that part that they sold me (I bought six of these, to have a few spares):
I gather this part is relatively standard, and it seems to be this one that they sold me: http://www.goodview-lcd.com/productshow.asp?i=28
However, I'm having trouble finding clear documentation of exactly what the pinouts are on this guy... also, I find the image that you keep referencing, Sublime (http://www.tantillus.org/Images/RAMPS1.4_Tantillus_connections.JPG) to be a bit confusing as to what exactly the pinouts are for the LCD. Can you offer any further clarification for those like me who are buying and wiring our own parts?
These images are of my rotary encoders:
It was supposed to be a 10-pack, but they only shipped me 7 of them. Jerks!
Also, try as I might, I couldn't find any documentation of what the pinouts would be. Would the pinouts on a part like this be somewhat standard? Sublime, do you have any clear documentation on how you wired yours? And also perhaps some clearer documentation on where it connects on the RAMPS board?
Also, my threads are exactly 7mm, as recommended, but I can't quite make it fit through the hole in the acrylic and engage with the nut. I think it's due to this little metal nib, circled below.
I gather that's there to prevent the encoder from just free-spinning in the hole if it gets a little loose... however we don't have a spot for that "nib" to go, and it's preventing me from having the thread-length to secure the encoder. Would I be best to just file it down to get it out of my way, and then just keep the encoder tightened down as much as possible?
Finally... regarding the LCD screen, here are images of that part that they sold me (I bought six of these, to have a few spares):
I gather this part is relatively standard, and it seems to be this one that they sold me: http://www.goodview-lcd.com/productshow.asp?i=28
However, I'm having trouble finding clear documentation of exactly what the pinouts are on this guy... also, I find the image that you keep referencing, Sublime (http://www.tantillus.org/Images/RAMPS1.4_Tantillus_connections.JPG) to be a bit confusing as to what exactly the pinouts are for the LCD. Can you offer any further clarification for those like me who are buying and wiring our own parts?
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Re: Clarification of parts required (and sourcing) August 21, 2012 06:20AM |
>Also, my threads are exactly 7mm, as recommended, but I can't quite make it fit through the hole in the acrylic and engage with the nut. I think it's >due to this little metal nib, circled below.
Sublime removed that nib on the encoder he sent to me. I still ended up using a 1/2 inch drill bit to countersink the front of the encoder hole and get more thread engagement because I stripped the very end couple threads on mine. Once the encoder knob is on it covers the countersink modification fairly well. So it doesn't look too shabby, but is still visible from an angle. Pics are attached if you're interested.
7 pieces in a 10-pack? Really?
Sublime removed that nib on the encoder he sent to me. I still ended up using a 1/2 inch drill bit to countersink the front of the encoder hole and get more thread engagement because I stripped the very end couple threads on mine. Once the encoder knob is on it covers the countersink modification fairly well. So it doesn't look too shabby, but is still visible from an angle. Pics are attached if you're interested.
7 pieces in a 10-pack? Really?
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Re: Clarification of parts required (and sourcing) August 23, 2012 01:50PM |
Here you go 
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