Eric's Tantillus build
Posted by Eric Young
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Re: Eric's Tantillus build August 25, 2012 05:32PM |
Thanks all 
Sublime Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 1) Did you use the calibration configs I provided
> last night?
> 2) I assume you used your own cube to test as the
> one I provided was 20x20x10.
Yup I did use my own cube. As for the calibration I just loaded your 'Standard (0.5mm)_Default' configuration, set the 'fill density' to 1, and then toyed with the Z-offset in .05 increments until it worked.
> 3) The layers curling may indicate that the
> default fan speed may need to be increased by a
> little in the firmware.
Cool, approximately how much is a little?
> 4) The rough(ish) surface finish is a result of
> the cables not being as tight as possible but also
> the fact I have z-lift enabled in the normal
> profiles. I would leave it for now and do some
> more test prints and then try and tighten the
> cables a little more.
You called it - my cables are not as tight as they could be. I was having a hard time keeping the XY axis square when I made the cables super tight, so I loosened them up a little. I'm doing some more prints as we speak and they're looking decent. The bottom 1.5mm or so of each print so far today is having a hard time, but after that the parts start to look good.
> 5) The infill looks perfect. Did you have to
> calibrate it at all or was my default just right?
As mentioned above the only thing I changed in your settings was 'fill density' to 1 instead of the .4 default. Easy cheesy
> 6) I assume the last picture is of the first
> layer. If so I think it may be a little to high.
> Try lowering it 0.05.
Yup. When you say lower it, do you mean raise the bed? Sorry I'm still trying to wrap my head around these orientations/terminologies.
Sublime Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 1) Did you use the calibration configs I provided
> last night?
> 2) I assume you used your own cube to test as the
> one I provided was 20x20x10.
Yup I did use my own cube. As for the calibration I just loaded your 'Standard (0.5mm)_Default' configuration, set the 'fill density' to 1, and then toyed with the Z-offset in .05 increments until it worked.
> 3) The layers curling may indicate that the
> default fan speed may need to be increased by a
> little in the firmware.
Cool, approximately how much is a little?
> 4) The rough(ish) surface finish is a result of
> the cables not being as tight as possible but also
> the fact I have z-lift enabled in the normal
> profiles. I would leave it for now and do some
> more test prints and then try and tighten the
> cables a little more.
You called it - my cables are not as tight as they could be. I was having a hard time keeping the XY axis square when I made the cables super tight, so I loosened them up a little. I'm doing some more prints as we speak and they're looking decent. The bottom 1.5mm or so of each print so far today is having a hard time, but after that the parts start to look good.
> 5) The infill looks perfect. Did you have to
> calibrate it at all or was my default just right?
As mentioned above the only thing I changed in your settings was 'fill density' to 1 instead of the .4 default. Easy cheesy
> 6) I assume the last picture is of the first
> layer. If so I think it may be a little to high.
> Try lowering it 0.05.
Yup. When you say lower it, do you mean raise the bed? Sorry I'm still trying to wrap my head around these orientations/terminologies.
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Re: Eric's Tantillus build August 25, 2012 06:09PM |
Eric Young Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > 3) The layers curling may indicate that the
> > default fan speed may need to be increased by a
> > little in the firmware.
>
> Cool, approximately how much is a little?
Good question. In the configuraton.h file you will find:
#define AUTO_FAN_MIN 150 // Minimum speed to keep the fan at (value 0 - 255) (comment out if not in use)
Try increasing the fan speed by 25 at a time until it seems to stop the curling or gets to noisy. You can also increase it in slic3r under the cooling tab. Only increase the one in slic3r by 5 at a time as it is a percentage where the firmware is a division of 255.
>
> > 4) The rough(ish) surface finish is a result of
> > the cables not being as tight as possible but
> also
> > the fact I have z-lift enabled in the normal
> > profiles. I would leave it for now and do some
> > more test prints and then try and tighten the
> > cables a little more.
>
> You called it - my cables are not as tight as they
> could be. I was having a hard time keeping the XY
> axis square when I made the cables super tight, so
> I loosened them up a little. I'm doing some more
> prints as we speak and they're looking decent. The
> bottom 1.5mm or so of each print so far today is
> having a hard time, but after that the parts start
> to look good.
I am working on this part of the instructions and should have something for you soon.
>
> > 5) The infill looks perfect. Did you have to
> > calibrate it at all or was my default just
> right?
>
> As mentioned above the only thing I changed in
> your settings was 'fill density' to 1 instead of
> the .4 default. Easy cheesy
That is great to hear.
>
> > 6) I assume the last picture is of the first
> > layer. If so I think it may be a little to
> high.
> > Try lowering it 0.05.
>
> Yup. When you say lower it, do you mean raise the
> bed? Sorry I'm still trying to wrap my head around
> these orientations/terminologies.
Well this one is tough and may always be confusing as we all see these things differently. I should have said you want to make the nozzle closer to the bed by 0.05
-------------------------------------------------------
> > 3) The layers curling may indicate that the
> > default fan speed may need to be increased by a
> > little in the firmware.
>
> Cool, approximately how much is a little?
Good question. In the configuraton.h file you will find:
#define AUTO_FAN_MIN 150 // Minimum speed to keep the fan at (value 0 - 255) (comment out if not in use)
Try increasing the fan speed by 25 at a time until it seems to stop the curling or gets to noisy. You can also increase it in slic3r under the cooling tab. Only increase the one in slic3r by 5 at a time as it is a percentage where the firmware is a division of 255.
>
> > 4) The rough(ish) surface finish is a result of
> > the cables not being as tight as possible but
> also
> > the fact I have z-lift enabled in the normal
> > profiles. I would leave it for now and do some
> > more test prints and then try and tighten the
> > cables a little more.
>
> You called it - my cables are not as tight as they
> could be. I was having a hard time keeping the XY
> axis square when I made the cables super tight, so
> I loosened them up a little. I'm doing some more
> prints as we speak and they're looking decent. The
> bottom 1.5mm or so of each print so far today is
> having a hard time, but after that the parts start
> to look good.
I am working on this part of the instructions and should have something for you soon.
>
> > 5) The infill looks perfect. Did you have to
> > calibrate it at all or was my default just
> right?
>
> As mentioned above the only thing I changed in
> your settings was 'fill density' to 1 instead of
> the .4 default. Easy cheesy
That is great to hear.
>
> > 6) I assume the last picture is of the first
> > layer. If so I think it may be a little to
> high.
> > Try lowering it 0.05.
>
> Yup. When you say lower it, do you mean raise the
> bed? Sorry I'm still trying to wrap my head around
> these orientations/terminologies.
Well this one is tough and may always be confusing as we all see these things differently. I should have said you want to make the nozzle closer to the bed by 0.05
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Re: Eric's Tantillus build August 25, 2012 09:21PM |
Changed the Z-offset by another .05 as you recommended and halved the bottom layer speed to get a really nice result - see first 3 attached pics. The part is a threaded cap and the threads turned out really nicely shaped. I think they may need to be painted with some adhesive epoxy type stuff to toughen them up a bit. No cleanup was done to it.
Haven't seen the layer peeling issue since the first run so have yet to try changing the fan speed.
The other close up pic is of a couple heart pendant pieces that I tried earlier today - these are the parts that had the problem with the bottom 1.5mm. I'll give them another shot with the new offset - they only take like 15 minutes each with 100% infill
The last couple pics are of a part that''s running now - it has some support structures and is supposed to be 3.5 inches (about 90mm) tall, so it will be very interesting to see how it does, though I think I'm going to run out of filament before it ends
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2012 09:23PM by Eric Young.
- see first 3 attached pics. The part is a threaded cap and the threads turned out really nicely shaped. I think they may need to be painted with some adhesive epoxy type stuff to toughen them up a bit. No cleanup was done to it.Haven't seen the layer peeling issue since the first run so have yet to try changing the fan speed.
The other close up pic is of a couple heart pendant pieces that I tried earlier today - these are the parts that had the problem with the bottom 1.5mm. I'll give them another shot with the new offset - they only take like 15 minutes each with 100% infill
The last couple pics are of a part that''s running now - it has some support structures and is supposed to be 3.5 inches (about 90mm) tall, so it will be very interesting to see how it does, though I think I'm going to run out of filament before it ends
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2012 09:23PM by Eric Young.
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Re: Eric's Tantillus build August 29, 2012 03:27AM |
Thanks for the hat tips guys
Sublime - Thank you for all your suggestions on the gears. I ended up spending some real quality time with them today and right now it's printing a spool holder that so far looks to be the best print to date on this machine
Since it's doing so well right now I figure maybe I should take a shot at printing some backup gears; does that sound reasonable at this point given I'm not too experienced with this yet? If so I'm wondering if you use any special settings or other tricks I should know of for gear printing? I have the .5 nozzle in right now.
Edit: Just in case anyone notices - those larger-sized facets on the semicircle of the spool holder part are actually in the STL model itself, so it's supposed to look a little squared off where it goes around that arc.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2012 03:34AM by Eric Young.
Sublime - Thank you for all your suggestions on the gears. I ended up spending some real quality time with them today and right now it's printing a spool holder that so far looks to be the best print to date on this machine
Since it's doing so well right now I figure maybe I should take a shot at printing some backup gears; does that sound reasonable at this point given I'm not too experienced with this yet? If so I'm wondering if you use any special settings or other tricks I should know of for gear printing? I have the .5 nozzle in right now.
Edit: Just in case anyone notices - those larger-sized facets on the semicircle of the spool holder part are actually in the STL model itself, so it's supposed to look a little squared off where it goes around that arc.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2012 03:34AM by Eric Young.
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